Launch question

countryboy12v

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Sep 6, 2009
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Goin to the track for the first time with my truck. I know every truck launches/acts/is different. With that said, how do y'all manual guys launch? I have a sbdd 3250 with billet input. 3/4ton 4x4 5spd is my truck.
Thanks for input.
Keith.
 
For the best time on a Dodge, I would build boost against the e-brake or three-foot it, and try launching in 3rd, unless you have really tall gears in it. Most people I know would try to build 15-20psi, and sort of slip the clutch out, like in this video:

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KhgXSlEFncw"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KhgXSlEFncw[/ame]
 
DON"T SLIP THAT CLUTCH!

Ask Schrowang what happened to his.

I have a single disk stock clutch in my 5 spd. I launch 3500rpms and just dump the clutch. At this point, I chirp the tires.
 
4x4 and I don't shift out of 4x4 until just before I turn on to the pit road.
 
If you rev the engine up and just keep hitting the throttle it will build boost and you can let the clutch out a little faster which saves the clutch but shock loads the drive line a little harder. I used to do this with my south bend single disk and launch in 2nd(single disk's don't like to slip). I cut 1.8 60foots on 35's in my ECLB like this. Everybody does it different. Worked good for me though.
 
DON"T SLIP THAT CLUTCH!

Ask Schrowang what happened to his.

I have a single disk stock clutch in my 5 spd. I launch 3500rpms and just dump the clutch. At this point, I chirp the tires.

It got to about 600* and broke in HALF! Dont slip it.


Posted to CumminsForum via autoguide for iphone.
 
So you blip the throttle at higher RPM's? Interesting...

Yea, it works best in p-pump trucks but I've done it in vp's and my 7.3 as well. If the clutch can handle it, it's a lot easier on drive lines to ride it out though. And 1 less shift.

Launching in second, hitting the throttle I ran low 14's with a 1.8 60ft in an ECLB on 35's at 5500 ft elevation. Just under 500hp.
 
I found the pic of mine...
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1345529586.339213.jpg
All blued and tore to pieces.


Posted to CumminsForum via autoguide for iphone.
 
For the best time on a Dodge, I would build boost against the e-brake or three-foot it, and try launching in 3rd, unless you have really tall gears in it. Most people I know would try to build 15-20psi, and sort of slip the clutch out, like in this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KhgXSlEFncw

apparently this is related

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYLr8NX2Rt4&feature=fvwrel"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYLr8NX2Rt4&feature=fvwrel[/ame]
 
Boost-launching most manuals is a bad idea - without a fluid coupling in the drivetrain, everything between the crank flange and drive wheels is stuck between a rock and a hard place.
Good way to discover what melts before something breaks, or vice versa.
 
Launching in my 24valve i would also blip the throttle to build boost. Until i came accross the dyno tune for my quad adrenaline, it blipped for me. Just rev it to 2500 or so and let the clutch out just a hair and when the light goes green floor it and let it out fast but also smooth. Worked pretty well for me.
 
When I was serious about racing, I sold my manual transmission truck and stepped up to an automatic.

That said, when I was trying to drag race my manual, I had a 99' with Valair Single Clutch and He351 retrofit turbo, about 500 HP to the wheels. I would rev it up to 3800 rpm free rev, launch in 4x4 2nd gear, and let out the clutch within the first 5-10 feet of the race = fast and smooth. That truck made 6-8 psi free revving that high and my best 60' was 1.86 seconds. The downside is the launch halfway welds the clutch and the 2-3 shift which is brutal anyway, was extremely difficult to make consistently. 8-10 passes later ranging from 14.40 to 14.95 the 3rd gear synchros were shot.

I honestly believe those 4x4 launches were violent enough to produce mid 1.7 second 60' times, it's just that I was always coasting shortly after launch trying to make the 2-3 gear shift so only 75% of the first 60' were under power.

Now, for down the track shifting, the best method I found was no-lift shifting. What I mean is keep the throttle on the floor and use the clutch to shift normally. This helps keep the motor under boost and the extra inertia of the high rpm motor getting slowed down when the clutch is let out on the gear shifts propels the truck forward gives a nice little boost in overall ET.

Like stated, that truck only weighed 6850 or so and had dyno'd 499.2 to the rear wheels. 14.40 is pathetic for that horsepower to weight ratio. After owning an automatic, I would never go back to a stick shifted truck for playing, racing, etc. The only place I'd still prefer a manual tranny is towing in the hills because 5 or 6 gears works a little better than 4 gears found in our common automatic transmissions. I've never towed with a newer 6 speed auto truck, they probably tow even better and are more comparable to the older 5-6 speed manual trucks.

My final bit of advice, if you want to race, build a separate truck. It sucks beating on your transportation vehicle unless you spend big $$$ to make it reliable. I'd rather spend my money making a cheap unreliable truck fast and use the left over for other hobbies, trips, guns, etc.
 
My final bit of advice, if you want to race, build a separate truck. It sucks beating on your transportation vehicle unless you spend big $$$ to make it reliable. I'd rather spend my money making a cheap unreliable truck fast and use the left over for other hobbies, trips, guns, etc.

Out of all he said, this is most important. I never know when my clutch is going to weld, break, or something let go. One of the main reasons I don't have injectors, turbo, or a clutch yet.
 
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