my new 05 melted down cummins

mrmuddy76

mrmuddy76

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Apr 26, 2013
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Hello people i just bought a l 05 4door 4wd 6 speed truck. I knew when i bought it had an injector out(or so i though). I got the pickup dirt cheap with only 130000 on it. It drove great ,real nice on the inside. My plan was just to put a set of.injectors in it and go. That plan quickly changed after about a 100 miles or so when it suddenly developed a crazy amount of blow by. I changed to oil and filter just to see maybe the injector had leaked enough fuel by the rings that it thin ed the o oil out. No dice .parked the pickup until i had time to look at it closer. I got time to take it to my shop the next day, so i got in it cranked it let it idle for a few secs. and all the sudden lost oil pressure. I killed it and cranked.it back up and had oil pressure for about 30 secs. So i had it pulled.to my shop where the head was pulled and i found the number 6 piston ate up and the number 5 hole shinny clean like was not firing. I can handle getting one hole sleeved and doing a overhaul but.the lost oil pressure it got me scratching my head. Any ideas?
 
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I would put a guage on it! If metal got into the oil pump that would cause it to fail. Since the pan will be off anyways just put a new oil pump in it!
 
hi my first though was the oil pump but didn't figure that it would even build oil pressure if it was the pump. i'm not sure , there is a part of me that hopes that I find a spun rod bearing when I take it apart so at least I would know were the problem was. I would hate to dump several K's into a motor just to have it fire and loose oil pressure in around a minute
 
The fuel/oil mix will cause no oil pressure, FYI. Seen it several times. Go through the whole thing, a new bearing kit from Jeff (SNEDGE on here) is worth your time if you already have to drop the pan and such to replace a piston.
 
If you're going to pull it for a rebuild you might as well spend a few extra dollars and get a new oil pump. The oil pump is gear driven in the front housing. I rebuild a ton of these CR engines and have seen several cases of no oil pressure before tear down and have great pressure when rebuilt. I give every customer the option to replace it when Ive got it torn down. If its out of spec they have no choice if they wish for me to stand behind my rebuild.
 
So pulled the motor and striped it down today, no spun bearing but lots and lots of alum. And chunks of ring in the bottom,number 6 piston had impregnated prices of ring it in head, the oil pump is badly damaged and does not turn freely . All of the bearing were scored but the crank didn't seem to be scratched to badly besides that its in good shape.....
I'm gonna take the crank and block to machine shop next week and see what they think. I know the bores need work but I dunno if the crank needs polished or turned. I have a question about bolts and studs. If I change rod bolts do I need to have the rods trued? Can I reuse rod and main bolts ? I know head bolts cannot be what do u suggest for replacement head bolts?
 
Replace the oil pressure bypass thingy by the cooler no mater what. They get junked up easier than the oil pump when crap is sucked up out of the pan.
 
mrmuddy76 said:
So pulled the motor and striped it down today, no spun bearing but lots and lots of alum. And chunks of ring in the bottom,number 6 piston had impregnated prices of ring it in head, the oil pump is badly damaged and does not turn freely . All of the bearing were scored but the crank didn't seem to be scratched to badly besides that its in good shape.....
I'm gonna take the crank and block to machine shop next week and see what they think. I know the bores need work but I dunno if the crank needs polished or turned. I have a question about bolts and studs. If I change rod bolts do I need to have the rods trued? Can I reuse rod and main bolts ? I know head bolts cannot be what do u suggest for replacement head bolts?
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I would throw a set of older rods in it for piece of mind. I wouldnt spend a dime on broke cap rods.$.02
 
got the stuff from the machine shop back today the crank looked much worse than it was it polished out no problem. the block cleaned up with .020 except #6 that had to be sleeved then .020 over. the rods had no problem at all. getting ready to start stuffing parts in it in the morning. I wish I had a set of 24v or 12v rods to stuff in but im not gunna add a ton of power and from what I gather the cracked rods will handle a lot of power they just don't bend well in the case of hydro locking and stuff like that. really all in going to try is a he351ve (sense my he351cw was trashed by the top ring going threw it) and 60hp over injectors (sense that was caused all the hell to begin with) im sure I will have a code trouble by adding that turbo but I will cross that bridge when I get to it. im gunna put on a 6.7 manifold so adapting should not be an issue.
 
Cracked caps here....OEM short block still at 269k...500 to 1000 hp now. Seem fine to me. Make the power at higher rpms!
 
Behind the oil filter...the cooler assembly has a spring loaded check valve.
 
ya my oil pump was trash. would lock up part was around. I replaced it with a mopar original. but while I was looking a the oiling system I found my self wondering a couple things. number one does a cummins just filter a small percentage or every thing? the reason I ask is I had a lot of trash in the main bearing and in every were else you can imagine. I just wonder how it could have gotten past the filter. my other question is what the hell did cummins spray all over these engines? some kind of lacquer clear coat that looks like crap when you try to clean it ?
 
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