P-pump 24 valve build thread/suggestions

Mr.T

Mr.T

DPF's are gay
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Dec 28, 2009
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ok, so a little background here, i have a 12 valve that is gettin a few miles on her (almost 200k) and i know that is not many for this motor, but i feel it might need freshened up before i go hog wild with it, so i figured why stop there? i want to build a motor that is a good, solid foundation for 750-800 HP one day, but i can still daily drive/tow while im building. So my plan is this. buy a cummins block, have it bored .040 over. good set of rods, flycut pistons?? ported and polished CR head, exhaust header, benched 12mm P-pump 400-500cc's, with 191 dv's, #10 plate, tuned AFC, and 5k springs. it will be o-ringed and have ARP studs, the turbo will probably be a 64mm of some variety that will later have an S480 or something similar under it.

so what would you experienced engine builders add/change on my list? i want it to be stout and reliable now, and be capable of withstanding big power later. im thinking of adding main studs to that list (needed or no?) i would *like* monotherms, but i know how expensive those are:hehe:

any advice/help is appreciated, i will be getting ahold of an engine in the near future and im really excited to get going on this:rockwoot:
 
12v will be a lot cheaper. If you already have a 12v I would just stick with it. $.02

In your case, monotherms aren't necessary.

Studs wouldn't hurt at 5k.
 
Why the over-bore? I'd leave it at stock bore in case you ever have issues down the road like a melted piston and scuff the cylinder. That way you have material to remove instead of having to sleeve it right away. Maximum material condition.
 
can't have the best of both worlds... daily driver/towing setup is much different than a 800 hp build. 5k's and a 64mm charger are going to be far from ideal for towing with a p7100 truck.

I say keep the 12v, it's cheaper to put together and will work fine for your goals. Flycuts wouldn't be necessary. Run 3k's and 181's with a benched pump (if you wish) and a 62 charger for now. When it's time to step it up, just swap in your pump parts and make your turbo changes.

$.02
 
GOT-Torque said:
can't have the best of both worlds... daily driver/towing setup is much different than a 800 hp build. 5k's and a 64mm charger are going to be far from ideal for towing with a p7100 truck.
Click to expand...

X2. I missed that when I read the original post apparently.
 
ok, so building for the future isn't gonna work as planned eh? i figured the 24 valve idea would flow better in stock form than the 12 valve, and the CR has better valve seats, so that was my reasoning there. a buddy of mine did the p-pump 24 valve thing with a 215 pump, 5k's, 191's and i think it was a 62mm charger, it ran really good from what i understood.
 
the eventual goal is to build an unlimited single/twins puller, but for right now i just want a good, solid foundation for later that i can tow/dd and have it be reliable.
 
The hard parts needed for a setup you want, won't lend to the streetablity for the present.
 
thats why im askin questions :D so i guess i could build a good stout 24 valve motor with a set of towing twins to replace my 12 valve, and then rebuild the 12 valve bad@$$ and keep it for when i decide to go all out with the truck.....OR.....buy a roller and drop the built 12 valve in that one instead and keep this one for a street toy, that may only make sense in my head......:hehe:
 
I know it's not possible to have an 800hp daily driver, but why is a 12V cheaper to build than a p-pumped 24V. Are 24V parts more expensive.
 
Keep building the engine you have.

It's "loose" now (bigger tolerances). That will give you alot of breathing room for screw-ups. And a few more hp.

At best pull it and reseal it, meaning oil pan and the like.

A ss engine shares nothing with a street motor......well my ideal street truck would but your different.
 
RonA said:
I know it's not possible to have an 800hp daily driver, but why is a 12V cheaper to build than a p-pumped 24V. Are 24V parts more expensive.
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im not after an 800hp daily driver, once i start building for 800 HP i will have an LBZ sitting in my driveway for the daily driving duties

roachie said:
Keep building the engine you have.

It's "loose" now (bigger tolerances). That will give you alot of breathing room for screw-ups. And a few more hp.

At best pull it and reseal it, meaning oil pan and the like.

A ss engine shares nothing with a street motor......well my ideal street truck would but your different.
Click to expand...


the problem with building the one i have is that i cant afford more than a week of downtime since this is my primary vehicle, thats why im thinking i want to build a good solid 24 valve on the engine stand and then swap them when i have some downtime, make sense? for a streetable, reliable daily driver i think i'd justy build the motor for 600ish horse with a good set of twins, if its possible to get 600 horse and still tow with it running a benched P-pump
 
SFP12valve said:
if its possible to get 600 horse and still tow with it running a benched P-pump
Click to expand...

Supposedly the cooling system is what prohibits towing at levels much over 450hp. (I can't verify that, as I have not tried it yet, but that is what I have read.) How much weight your towing of course would make a difference...if you are just toting your ATV around versus dragging a gooseneck, etc.
 
at the very heaviest i will be towing a 30 foot 5th wheel with a 2 place behind it with four wheelers
 
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