P7100 from a block of steel...

Can anyone look up this Bosch pump number and tell me what this pump is:

RQV450-1150MWV17575

That's a governor number. "truck" governor, 900 rpm idle, 2300 wide open I think.

Assuming those numbers came fron the ebay listing, that's a 10MM M&W pump. Nothing special for making power, depends on what you want. Price is reasonable.
 
If you're good with dimensioning and CAD go for it. The housing itself doesn't seem that complicated, now the cam on the other hand...
 
I think I'd look at getting two 6 cylinder pumps and cutting and joining the pump body together. All the dimensioning has been done for you. All you'd have to do is engineer how to make two into one, and keeping the bore centerlines aligned.
 
That's a governor number. "truck" governor, 900 rpm idle, 2300 wide open I think.

Assuming those numbers came fron the ebay listing, that's a 10MM M&W pump. Nothing special for making power, depends on what you want. Price is reasonable.


Okay..... good to know, and yes, it's the one on ebay. But I can't just go buying stuff like that because for all I know it could be off a stationary engine.

If it's a truck gov, then you would assume that it's acceptable for street use. But what is it??? Will parts from a 12v engine drop in that pump? Gov springs, P%B's.... delivery valves, holders.... do AFC settings apply???

Those are the questions I just don't know enough about to be able to answer.


As to the 10mm plungers, what P&B diameter are guys making say 700hp on fuel running in a 12v? And is P&B diameter easily changed from pump to pump, or just some sizes or what?

What is the effect of a larger Plunger, power per power, assuming say a 10mm plunger was making 400rwhp, how would a 13mm feel, and act at the same 400hp?

Another question, what causes the infamous, pop.....pop.......pop....pop...pop....pop...pop..pop. pop. poppoopopopoppppppooRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR up on power? You see it most often in pulling trucks.

What is happening in the pump or elsewhere when that is going on? And how do you keep it from happening in a street truck/ what are you gaining and giving up that high powered injection pumps seem to have that in common?


Thanks guys. I'm trying to cram a decade of mech pump conception in my brain asap.


If I go this route, I will be shooting for an identical injection setup to say a 6 to 700rwhp 12v that drives as crisp and nice as possible, then simply add two more injectors, plungers and barrels and hopefully carry the same manners to a higher power output by having two more of everything.
 
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Might look at the Bosch inline pump that came on the 1991+ mack E9 V8's. Surely that pump could be found at a much more reasonable price. They were factory set at 500-550 hp and could easily be setup to 700. I have an extra pump that was a v-8 design but I don't think it supported as much power. Our 91 came with the inline.
 
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Might look at the Bosch inline pump that came on the 1991+ mack E9 V8's. Surely that pump could be found at a much more reasonable price. They were factory set at 500-550 hp and could easily be setup to 700. I have an extra pump that was a v-8 design but I don't think it supported as much power. Our 91 came with the inline.

I actually planned to visit the local big truck salvage place around here yesterday but didn't have time. My goal was actually to look for that exact engine.

Even then, what pump came on those??? Can I buy known good performance parts and can I use known governor settings for good driving?

Questions like that are really the only driving force behind my wanting exactly the same pump on a 12v 5.9, but with 2 more cylinders.
 
That exact listing has already been discussed, and are we going to assume a pump is a pump is a pump, or do you have inside information that I don't? Will common P7100 parts drop right in that bad boy?

If he had a phone number I would have already called.

i noticed that after i posted it was the same pump number you had in question. if i can find the 6cyl version ones i have at work i can compare it to the one on my truck and see. IIRC the ones like that were the 11mm P&B. but the case looks to be the same and the the way that the P&B are attached that you could swap it over to a 12mm or 13mm. maybe Seth will find this thread and chime in.
 
Did you ever consider two rotary pumps from 6.9/7.3 can't they make close to 400 hp with one pump? Maybe there would not be room just thinking out load.
 
Might look at the Bosch inline pump that came on the 1991+ mack E9 V8's. Surely that pump could be found at a much more reasonable price. They were factory set at 500-550 hp and could easily be setup to 700. I have an extra pump that was a v-8 design but I don't think it supported as much power. Our 91 came with the inline.

I'm wanting to say they are very similar to a p7100, I can try and get the numbers off the one on my buddies superliner. I'm pretty sure it is a 12mm pump.
 
Okay..... good to know, and yes, it's the one on ebay. But I can't just go buying stuff like that because for all I know it could be off a stationary engine.

If it's a truck gov, then you would assume that it's acceptable for street use. But what is it??? Will parts from a 12v engine drop in that pump? Gov springs, P%B's.... delivery valves, holders.... do AFC settings apply???

Those are the questions I just don't know enough about to be able to answer.


As to the 10mm plungers, what P&B diameter are guys making say 700hp on fuel running in a 12v? And is P&B diameter easily changed from pump to pump, or just some sizes or what?

dodge trucks always came with 12MM plungers and barrels, in three different varieties... (((abridged version))))160 hp pump (12mm, with crappy cam) 175hp (same as 160, few afc tweaks) 180 (12mm, good cam) 215 (12mm P&B, some had a timing retard notch)

What is the effect of a larger Plunger, power per power, assuming say a 10mm plunger was making 400rwhp, how would a 13mm feel, and act at the same 400hp?

13mm stuff is big power, yet can be easily made to work on a daily driver with mild pump cam. it is going to take less throttle position (rack) to aquire the same hp as a smaller P&B

Another question, what causes the infamous, pop.....pop.......pop....pop...pop....pop...pop..pop. pop. poppoopopopoppppppooRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR up on power? You see it most often in pulling trucks.

gov bounce usually on a dedicated pull truck. In street applications popping is a fuel supply related issue.

What is happening in the pump or elsewhere when that is going on? And how do you keep it from happening in a street truck/ what are you gaining and giving up that high powered injection pumps seem to have that in common?

it is a rack position thing, you are sacrificing drivability for a governor that essentially has unlimited fueling capability.


Thanks guys. I'm trying to cram a decade of mech pump conception in my brain asap.


If I go this route, I will be shooting for an identical injection setup to say a 6 to 700rwhp 12v that drives as crisp and nice as possible, then simply add two more injectors, plungers and barrels and hopefully carry the same manners to a higher power output by having two more of everything.



look at the pump cutaway thread, it will tell you all you need to know. 90% of the complexity of a p7100 style pump is controlling the rack, a gov/afc assembly out of a dodge would work perfect for your goals.
 
I picked up a pump off a E-9 Mack for my conversion/puller build, its a 12mm p7100.
 
Did you ever consider two rotary pumps from 6.9/7.3 can't they make close to 400 hp with one pump? Maybe there would not be room just thinking out load.

A "competition" pump for one of those old oil burners is in the 180-200cc range.

So two would be 360-400, and the injection pressure is 10-14k. A modded pump for those is also about as reliable as slutty drunk girlfriend.

Hybrid HEUI injectors are "reliable" at 400cc's, and capable of maintaining 15k + IP, depending on about 4 million different PCM and mechanical factors.

Goin with a 8cylinder mech pump would cut that margin for error down quite a bit.
 
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