Shut Off Solenoid Behavior???

NickTF

NickTF

Single turbo turd.
Joined
Jun 4, 2007
Messages
5,887
I have had the solenoid not be able to pull up periodically. The problem has been addressed in the past by replacing the relay which controls said action with a variant I found at allied electronics. The first one held over a year. It started acting up again so I replaced it and all was well for about 1 to 2 months and now it is acting up again. Is this indicative of a solenoid going out (never been replaced and truck has 160k plus on clock) or possibly another issue? I know this topic has been covered a million times but it is usually not specific when a thread is created regarding this topic, it is usually quite general. Just trying to make certain I don't toss away over $100 beans on a new solenoid if there may be another issue.

Linkage is not binding or anything like that so far as I know. Also, there is no misalignment or anything along those lines either.

Ideas?
 
What amp relay you using I have 70 amp relays on mine with no issues so far
 
Not sure if you'd want to or not, but you could just convert it to a manual shut off if it gets to be too unreliable or you get tired of replacing parts.
 
Does the solenoid plunger bottom out before the arm on the pump hits its internal stop?

I run a 12v universal starter solenoid for the pull in circuit. Think I got it from napa.
 
mathews8pt said:
Does the solenoid plunger bottom out before the arm on the pump hits its internal stop?

I run a 12v universal starter solenoid for the pull in circuit. Think I got it from napa.
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Honestly i'm not sure. If memory serves the arm is pretty much rusted all around any of the adjustment areas making any adjustment impossible.
 
Check the solenoid for free unrestricted movement as well. I have seen some "gum" up and were hard to pull in and out.
 
If its actually burning up the relays.....I've had one before that worked perfectly fine until the engine warmed up. Once the solenoid got hot, it would pop the engine fuse. It could be possible it's pulling too many amps and burning them up.
 
Make sure all your electrical wires are good in the circuit, a little corrosion in them will increase resistance. That can make a lot of things not work as good as they should.
 
zstroken said:
Check the solenoid for free unrestricted movement as well. I have seen some "gum" up and were hard to pull in and out.
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ChuMaDD said:
Make sure all your electrical wires are good in the circuit, a little corrosion in them will increase resistance. That can make a lot of things not work as good as they should.
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I have had both these problems....
 
Thanks for the ideas, I will look around and see what I come up with.
 
The two leads coming off the positive lead of the battery I ended up "re-terminaling". The rubber part which says "fuseable link" was a goner coming apart as I went to check the terminal connection. I cut the rubber part away and it looks as if the only thing that was in there was a straight butt connector. Can someone tell me what risk I run if any by not having that piece on the line to my battery?

After replacing the terminals the solenoid is acting like it should. Hopefully that was the issue.
 
Just means the rest of the wire won't be protected. Fusible links aren't hard to find though.
 
TheBigNasty said:
Just means the rest of the wire won't be protected. Fusible links aren't hard to find though.
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I wonder if the wire is fused somewhere else? Probably not. I don't want any fires ofcourse. I suppose the wire is only charged when the truck is running so it is unlikely an issue could occurr while i'm away from the truck or is that thinking off?
 
It is a 65 amp inline fuse to the relay for key on power iirc. I really wouldn't recommend not replacing it or using some type of fuse replacement
 
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starter_curcuit_diagram.jpg
 
Wow, that thing was very very small for 65 amps. I will come up with something.
 
try cleaning the grounds that are bolted to the head @ the front drivers side of the engine under a 15mm bolt.... just infront of the grid heaters.... my relay caught on fire and melted a bunch of chit... ground was gummed up, ended up swappin out my chopped up burnt auto harness for a stick harness an new relays... fixed the prob... and from what i cud tell after dissecting the harnesses... it was chit ground causin my pull problem, dunno why she burnt up.. but o well
 
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