Stock 5.9L short block....

JQmile

JQmile

Comp Diesel Sponsor
Joined
Nov 19, 2006
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On my latest dyno run I calculated about 1,900 lb-ft at the wheels based on my 2,600rpm power peak. Anyone else pushing their stock stuff this hard as far as torque numbers go? All I have as ARP 2000 studs, an o-ringed head, and valvesprings. Starting to wonder how many times I can do this before KaBoom happens...:pop:
 
didnt chris w make 1400hp or so with his stock long block? i dont think it lived long
 
I think he pulled it apart and found bearing issues, although it was still running. If mine could last as long as his did, I'd be happy!
 
As with any motor sport 90% of the cost is for the reliable issue and 10% for the go fast part,
 
I've heard 2k is the number to avoid if possible by bring the rpm's up. My stock short block has held so far. Last dyno was around 2030 torque. I think Chris W.'s failure was a piston with no steel insert for the top ring(all non-stock pistons). They do not last as long.
 
I thought you had a girdle or rod bolts or something in your Ron....or was that the new engine?
 
Bump.....I know Cole's has stayed tough forever....anyone else? Sled pullers? Or is high rpm and not torque what breaks em?.....
 
I stretched/broke stock main bolts and bent the crank at 2200ftlbs.
 
AFAIK Steven Cole who did 904/2000+ at beans last week is on a stock bottom end. Could be wrong though.
 
Everything I've seen points to trouble when you start stepping above 2000. Raising the RPM will prolong the inevitable with the goals you have for that truck. Not to mention the torture of the pop spray solenoids on that thing. Gotta pay to play.
 
Cool thanks guys....Oddly enough, my power curve was pretty linear, not a flat liner like a lot of 'em. I think the engine just couldn't flow any more nitrous at that low of an rpm LOL I'll leave the tune up like I have it now and start saving for another stock short block just in case!
 
I've heard that the most cost effective method is just to use old short blocks till they die and then replace with another one. Hard to say if the rods and block stiffeners really help. Rings and bearings are dirt cheap and easy.
 
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RonA said:
I've heard that the most cost effective method is just to use old short blocks till they die and then replace with another one. Hard to say if the rods and block stiffeners really help. Rings and bearings are dirt cheap and easy.
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I know a real fast truck that has lived by this motto.
 
Pretty easy to throw 14mm main studs ARPS in the 02 and earlier blocks. CR are abit more head ache, due to the mains stiffner interferance issues.

To many varances in engine rods and cranks between years, to make general statement on torque ratings capacity of the engine.
 
do you think 14mm are really necessary? there are a lot of +/- 1000hp cr's running around without having the cranks come out the bottoms..
 
For me its really easy justifing throwing 14mm ARP studs, its cheap $220 buck of extra insurance, same goes for the ARP's rod bolts, but everyone has there special magically touch.
 
i just seen this thread. my last dyno was 18xxftlbs but was closer to 3k rpms and a little over 1100hp. i have been around this power level for almost a year now and made quite a few 1/4 passes without any problems yet. im going to agree with the rpms helping
 
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