Who is running the M&H 30x14x16 dot slicks?

Runninlean

Runninlean

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Jul 28, 2010
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So M&H recommended running tubes in these tires and I have never ran tubes before. Last night I went to do some testing and actually popped a tube on the big end or at least the truck violently started shacking at over 100 mph till I got it stopped.

Who else is running these tires what psi are you running them at and do you run tubes? If you know please add the weight of the truck they are on.
 
Im surprised, i know 2 people running them. Both with no tubes.. Glad to see you didnt get hurt... I had death wobble twice years ago crossing the traps @ 115... Very very scary..
 
We have a set on our super street truck and the lowest we run in them is 14 and highest is 20. We also use tubes with only one failure that we caught before the run.
 
59turbo said:
Kind of off subject but how did you get the 16" wheels to fit?
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2 Grinders and a lot of hrs. You can use spacers also with out as much grinding on the calipers.

MadMooseMulisha said:
We have a set on our super street truck and the lowest we run in them is 14 and highest is 20. We also use tubes with only one failure that we caught before the run.
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Hmm have had a few guys run them on 2wd with 12 psi but not sure they were leaving as hard. Good to hear on the tubes not failing. What was the one failure you did have?
 
It was a weird leak that we couldn't find in the tube just would not hold air. We run 4wd as well so they are on all four corners.
 
I'm not using those exact tires but something very similar in a 15" wheel, MT ET streets without tubes and have been for three years without any problems. It's a low ten second 2wd. A old timer told me to coat the inside of the tire with dish washing soap dry to seal up the rubber, they hold air for about a month before leaking down.
 
jasonc said:
I'm not using those exact tires but something very similar in a 15" wheel, MT ET streets without tubes and have been for three years without any problems. It's a low ten second 2wd. A old timer told me to coat the inside of the tire with dish washing soap dry to seal up the rubber, they hold air for about a month before leaking down.
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Yeah on my pro street truck I ran a big tire 33.5x17x16 no tubes as they do not make them in that size.


I am thinking I need new tubes and actually screwing the tires.
 
I was gonna say, perhaps the tires spun and pulled the valve stem out of the tube,, would not surprise me.
You saw how much my tires spin on the rim, but i am not running tubes... And i need to screw them again.
 
On low pressure slicks like the m and h I would only run tubes and screws cause I have blown a slick in my old gas car cause it spun the wheel in the slick.
 
Runninlean said:
2 Grinders and a lot of hrs. You can use spacers also with out as much grinding on the calipers.

Which wheels are you using, a factory wheel or aftermarket, steel or aluminium? I'm running a 2wd and haven't had any luck finding a sticky tire that's tall enough in a 17 inch wheel. Thanks
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24vriviera said:
I was gonna say, perhaps the tires spun and pulled the valve stem out of the tube,, would not surprise me.
You saw how much my tires spin on the rim, but i am not running tubes... And i need to screw them again.
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Yeah I have not broke it down yet and had told myself a couple times to mark the tire and just kept forgetting to.

MadMooseMulisha said:
On low pressure slicks like the m and h I would only run tubes and screws cause I have blown a slick in my old gas car cause it spun the wheel in the slick.
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Out of curiosity what tubes are you running? I just ordered a pair of MT 9555's.

59turbo said:
Runninlean said:
2 Grinders and a lot of hrs. You can use spacers also with out as much grinding on the calipers.

Which wheels are you using, a factory wheel or aftermarket, steel or aluminium? I'm running a 2wd and haven't had any luck finding a sticky tire that's tall enough in a 17 inch wheel. Thanks
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Currently running the MT classic. Same as the new classic 2's but different center caps. 16x10 its a 4.5" back spacing.


I am actually thinking about picking up some of the MT Classic locks to replace them with but not sure if I could screw the tires with the bead lock ring simulators. Any one have some of these and know?
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I ran these a few passes this year. Tubes and screws. I ran them from 8-12psi. No issues. Mine are for sale if your interested. I'd let them go cheap. I'm Unsure of how many passes. $75 each. Ran a 1.77 60ft 7.60@92 with these friday. Hope this helps.
 
I have been running the M and H dot tires for a couple years . Last year I ran them with out the tubes . Then this year I was out testing on the back roads and ran over something and put a hole in one so I had to put the tubes in two of them which I have on the front. M and H told me it was user preference if you want to run tubes or not. I did notice that they seem to be a little more stable with the tubes in them.
 
Toolman said:
I have been running the M and H dot tires for a couple years . Last year I ran them with out the tubes . Then this year I was out testing on the back roads and ran over something and put a hole in one so I had to put the tubes in two of them which I have on the front. M and H told me it was user preference if you want to run tubes or not. I did notice that they seem to be a little more stable with the tubes in them.
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I agree with being more stable and less affected on heat cycles. I have noticed on my old set it seems harder to get a good patch with tubes as them seem to want to peak in the middle. This is also why I am wondering about who is running what tubes as they are generic fit and wanted to see if one patched better than another.
 
I am running the M and H tubes made for them . I haven't tried the tube tires on the back to see if it would make a difference . I think you probably get better flex and bite without the tubes though. I will say running without the tubes my tires were loosing air all the time. Of the two I have with out tubes I have one that looses air and one that doesn't
 
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