Suggestions on fresh motor please

D Twigg

Starting to understand
I've done the searches and done the reading but I'm still on the fence of somethings. I'm currently waiting to finally have my motor finished up. It's going to be .020 over, 188/220 cam stock bearings etc. The shop that is doing the assembling the motor for me wants to fire it up after they put it together and let it run a couple times before I retake possession of it to make sure there is no leaks and it runs fine. I'm just wondering if this will cause issues with anything in the motor especially the new cam. I'm also still on the fence with the break in time on it. I'll be sending the turbos out to be rebuilt and I'm tossed between let it warm up and run it like I stole it a time or two, or put about 500 miles on it before I run it hard. I want to take it and run it like its going to be run right away but I'm not sure what to do about the turbos. Any insight is appreciated.

Thanks, Twigg.:thankyou2::thankyou2:
 
If you can have it pre-lubed before start up or have it cranked till oil comes up out of the rockers would be best. Then fire it up and immediately bring it to 1200-1500rpm for 5min to break the cam in. Then shut it down and check/adjust valve lash if needed. After that initial cam breakin run it hard and drive it like you stole it to help seat the rings.
 
Everyone always talks about running it hard to seat the rings (which makes sense) but what about head studs; where does that fall in? If i run my engine too hard before a good few retorques, i will most certainly blow the head gasket out again.
 
I have never done a re-torque “Hot” or not with zero issues. Currently running about 60psi and was pushing 90 with compounds before and stock head gasket. Arp 625s torque has been set between 155-160ftlbs each time. I just lube both ends of the stud, both sides of the washer, inside and bottom of the nut, then run the stud down till it bottoms out. I then mark the top of the stud with a marker and backed it out a half to 3/4 turn. Then I torque it to the spec I want in 3 steps making sure the stud doesn’t bottom out. If you have fire rings that’s a different story.
 
Probably a good idea to use some good break in oil too. I used some 15w40 Driven break-in oil that I changed after 500 miles.
 
I wrecked a motor once because I just cranked until oil pressure was up before letting it start. You must have it pre lubed before startup.
 
I wrecked a motor once because I just cranked until oil pressure was up before letting it start. You must have it pre lubed before startup.[/QUOTE

Must of done something else wrong during assembly. Maybe cheap assembly lube or a lack of.
 
Used about half a bottle of royal purple.

Very well could have done something wrong though. That was the first and probably last time I mess with the internals of an engine.
 
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Please forgive me for the delayed response its been a hell of a week. Cflanery if i were to not drive it like that the first time for a little while just to make sure everything else on the truck was okay, being she's been sitting for 4 years, how bad do you think it may end up being as far as blow by goes or do you think I should be okay to ride around for a little while before abusing it?
 
I think you will be fine. Just don’t let it idle for any extended period of time. Start it and go. When you stop shut it off even if it’s just a quick stop for some snack cakes.
 
With a new cam you have NO CHOICE but to bring it to cam makers recommended RPM for the length of time they specify. If they're going to 'fire it up' then you need to be there and see a tach with the right RPM and the right amount of time. Then go do your break-in under load.
 
I prefer a longer 20 min run time to break in the cam holding rpm around 1800-2000.
After the cam break in and rechecking everything I dove mine around normal for a couple hundred miles before hooking to my trailer and hauling loads with it.
It's using 2 qrts in 7000 mile oil changes (lot of local driving), 90% miles pulling a trailer.
 
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