Farm Truck Compound Build Thread

Well, I've been pretty busy on the truck lately. I got the brackets mounted on the truck for the traction bars. I got the bars made today and will take them to powder coat tomorrow.

I got all my new gauges mounted and plubmed in the truck. Also got the turbo tuner mounted and ready to tune the wategate on the primary.

I did a retorque today on my head studs and almost all of them turned ever so slightly. It was just enough that I had to adjust the valve lash again. I had driven it about 175 miles, but had made quite a few heat cycles. It should be ready now for the compounds. I hope to have them on by next weekend!

I will post some more pictures of all the progress soon

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A few pics of the traction bars. Going to get them powder coated today
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The compounds are on! I put them on today. I glued my intake plenum gasket down while i was working on it so I haven't driven it yet. Im going leave the 5x14's in for a couple days to make sure all my boots are going to stay on. Probably change to the bigger injectors next weekend. I retorqued my head again today and a few of the nuts moved ever so slighty. Im thinking I may drive it a week or so and do one more torque. My traction bars arent back from the power coating yet either. So ready to drive it tomorrow though. I still plan on doing a full review of the evil fab kit soon too.
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jstaylor954 said:
The compounds are on! I put them on today. I glued my intake plenum gasket down while i was working on it so I haven't driven it yet. Im going leave the 5x14's in for a couple days to make sure all my boots are going to stay on. Probably change to the bigger injectors next weekend. I retorqued my head again today and a few of the nuts moved ever so slighty. Im thinking I may drive it a week or so and do one more torque. My traction bars arent back from the power coating yet either. So ready to drive it tomorrow though. I still plan on doing a full review of the evil fab kit soon too.
ee4172fe18c1692378c8c7621afa4d50.jpg
4fc91ba991295351050871eef602209b.jpg
d748af1ebe938c0ddcb5efdfeedbfee1.jpg
ba91809cb412556a6fd8719d08594678.jpg
67c782a82c3fc422fe793a7a0c609dbf.jpg
7999b5f9200465c59cb0ac856787143e.jpg
fde47fd0a4b3008a4ff3473a7dcadb1c.jpg
4f0cb18fd48517cc0765fed8e7245f82.jpg
147c99f24e387167c7c91e410fd1321c.jpg
7684211a64f767798017f4dda8e2d767.jpg
525c83ecddad2b7e27d3e325fefff6d8.jpg


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That really looks good!
You probably know this already, but my experience with boots is, take it easy and bring the motor up to temp, then with it hot, go back over all your clamps. I’ve been amazed at how much they’ll often tighten up.

I have really enjoyed this build thread!
 
bracker8040 said:
That really looks good!
You probably know this already, but my experience with boots is, take it easy and bring the motor up to temp, then with it hot, go back over all your clamps. I’ve been amazed at how much they’ll often tighten up.

I have really enjoyed this build thread!
Click to expand...

Thanks man! I will definitely give that a try!
 
I did drive it for a few pulls on Sunday. I still didnt have the traction bars on and I could definitely feel the axle wrapping some! With only the 5x14's in, I could still hit 70psi overall boost but it cleansup the smoke really nice. It definitely needs some tuning but feels very strong!

Had a couple problems though. My valve covers are leaking some. I took all the material I possible could out of the cover webbing, without going through them. At 70psi, it blew oil everywhere. Im going to try a different cover gasket set and see if that helps, but pretty sure im going to have to grind the studs down a hair. The studs are even with the nuts though so idk.

The second problem is the top pipe is rubbing the hood frame enough to wear the paint when the motor torques. Already rubbed a spot in the pretty red powder coat durn it! Im going to try and clock the turbo a little more, and grind the hood frame some if needed. I hope to have everything ready for some tuning next weekend
 
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Easiest would be to upload it to youtube and leave it unlisted if you don't want it public, and post the link.
 
jstaylor954 said:
I did drive it for a few pulls on Sunday. I still didnt have the traction bars on and I could definitely feel the axle wrapping some! With only the 5x14's in, I could still hit 70psi overall boost but it cleansup the smoke really nice. It definitely needs some tuning but feels very strong!

Had a couple problems though. My valve covers are leaking some. I took all the material I possible could out of the cover webbing, without going through them. At 70psi, it blew oil everywhere. Im going to try a different cover gasket set and see if that helps, but pretty sure im going to have to grind the studs down a hair. The studs are even with the nuts though so idk.

The second problem is the top pipe is rubbing the hood frame enough to wear the paint when the motor torques. Already rubbed a spot in the pretty red powder coat durn it! Im going to try and clock the turbo a little more, and grind the hood frame some if needed. I hope to have everything ready for some tuning next weekend
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Some spring clamps will help with the axle wrap until you get your traction bars back. They’re all I run on my truck.

Check the washers on the studs. Sometimes they push on the gaskets enough to keep them from sealing. I ended up countersinking them in the head.
 
Drothgeb said:
Some spring clamps will help with the axle wrap until you get your traction bars back. They’re all I run on my truck.

Check the washers on the studs. Sometimes they push on the gaskets enough to keep them from sealing. I ended up countersinking them in the head.
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Do you mean that you counter sunk them into the valve cover itself?
 
Drothgeb said:
Some spring clamps will help with the axle wrap until you get your traction bars back. They’re all I run on my truck.

Check the washers on the studs. Sometimes they push on the gaskets enough to keep them from sealing. I ended up countersinking them in the head.
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I thought about it for a min and realized what you meant, the studs between the valve covers. Sorry, still drinking my morning coffee haha. I will check that today. Could be whats causing it. I got a new set of gaskets going on today.

I wonder if using sealant around it would help?
 
jstaylor954 said:
I thought about it for a min and realized what you meant, the studs between the valve covers. Sorry, still drinking my morning coffee haha. I will check that today. Could be whats causing it. I got a new set of gaskets going on today.

I wonder if using sealant around it would help?
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I don’t think sealant on the valve cover gasket will help, but if you put a couple dabs of sealant inside the U of the gasket they stick on the valve cover a little better so they are easier to install.

It looks like you have the older style studs that were known for causing valve cover leaks. The newer ones you have to get the rocker pediatals Milled down under the stud .2” so the valve cover doesn’t sit on the stud itself. Did you use a bottoming tap in all the holes in the block the studs thread in to?
 
Muddin_dude06 said:
I don’t think sealant on the valve cover gasket will help, but if you put a couple dabs of sealant inside the U of the gasket they stick on the valve cover a little better so they are easier to install.

It looks like you have the older style studs that were known for causing valve cover leaks. The newer ones you have to get the rocker pediatals Milled down under the stud .2” so the valve cover doesn’t sit on the stud itself. Did you use a bottoming tap in all the holes in the block the studs thread in to?
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Yes. I talked to the owner at Haisley and these studs are designed to not mill the pedestals. I bottom tapped every hole as much as possible. I even pulled the studs out a d retapped a couple holes again before i put the nuts on bc a couple studs stick up a little higher then the should. Even with tapping them again, a couple still ended up sticking up a little higher. The ones across the pedestals are pretty even. It probably is the washers causing them to leak now
 
Ive heard of people taking the washers out and then grinding the head of the stud down 1/8” or so to help the issue. Or do like Joe Hellmann back in the day drilled a hole in the valve cover right above the stud and then welded a little disk of aluminum to the top of the valve cover to give the studs room.
 
Good news! I changed my gaskets to the felpro blue ones and im pretty sure my leaking stopped. The definitely seemed to fit better then the cummins red gaskets. I guess they were getting in a bind and causing the leaks
 
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