Anybody else get a good look at the new comp wheels on the Holset turbos???

12valve said:
Do you have a closeup pic or vid of the setup?
The new vid on YouTube? Do you use the electric actuator there?
Click to expand...

No new videos yet, gotta wait till I get home, I'm still in Florida on my Honeymoon... Lucky enough to be able to get a little time on the computer :kick: But don't worry, that's not a bad thing LOL

07dodge said:
What are the wheel sizes on this 551? And what kind of app. would a guy find it on?
Click to expand...

I do believe they are a 71 or 72mm inducer wheel with a 108mm exducer. I cannot remember the exact specs on the turbine, but I remember them being something like 86/74. I'll have to look for the posts with those specs. But the housing closes down pretty tight (probably about 5cm or less) and is 31cm when fully open.

IIRC they come on the new ISX engines :Cheer:
 
BlackSkyRacing said:
I do believe they are a 71 or 72mm inducer wheel with a 108mm exducer. I cannot remember the exact specs on the turbine, but I remember them being something like 86/74. I'll have to look for the posts with those specs. But the housing closes down pretty tight (probably about 5cm or less) and is 31cm when fully open.

IIRC they come on the new ISX engines :Cheer:
Click to expand...

Sounds close to what I remember from mine...housing closes a LOT!!

Chris
 
Ok question, Does anyone else have an outlet flange like this? Overall diameter is about 4" but it isn't flat. Rather it has a slight taper and a step in the middle. Also there is a ledge that extends into the air stream about .250. I can't imagine that being good for air flow.

Anyone see a problem with me machining that ledge out and then flattening the face to accept an hx40 flange? Probably won't take out the step. Just straighten up the tapered part. Or does anybody know what flange this is? Right now my truck has an HE351 flange so it has to be changed regardless. The is on an HE431. Thanks.
 

Attachments

  • untitled.jpg
    untitled.jpg
    29.6 KB · Views: 33
kazairl said:
Ok question, Does anyone else have an outlet flange like this? Overall diameter is about 4" but it isn't flat. Rather it has a slight taper and a step in the middle. Also there is a ledge that extends into the air stream about .250. I can't imagine that being good for air flow.

Anyone see a problem with me machining that ledge out and then flattening the face to accept an hx40 flange? Probably won't take out the step. Just straighten up the tapered part. Or does anybody know what flange this is? Right now my truck has an HE351 flange so it has to be changed regardless. The is on an HE431. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Snedge = Jeff @ Mumau Diesel can get you one;)

Chris
 
kazairl said:
Ok question, Does anyone else have an outlet flange like this? Overall diameter is about 4" but it isn't flat. Rather it has a slight taper and a step in the middle. Also there is a ledge that extends into the air stream about .250. I can't imagine that being good for air flow.

Anyone see a problem with me machining that ledge out and then flattening the face to accept an hx40 flange? Probably won't take out the step. Just straighten up the tapered part. Or does anybody know what flange this is? Right now my truck has an HE351 flange so it has to be changed regardless. The is on an HE431. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Looks awful familiar... Mine had that protrusion in the exhaust outlet too I just torched it out and cleaned it up with a carbide quick. An HX40 flange will fit without removing the step, but the vband clamp won't work too good though unless you grind the housing flange a little thinner. Otherwise I guess there is a special downpipe flange and clamp.

On an update, I finally bumped my timing now that I am home from Florida... Stock timing had slipped to 10* from 11.5 so I bumped it to 18* as suggested by a few different people that think 160/175 pumps like a little more timing. It didn't change the low end much (though I chalk that up to the VGT) or cold starting, but HOLY CRAP does it pull hard up top now. That and EGTs top out at 1250* instead of 1700+ :rockwoot:

I also finally set up a dyno appointment for the 29th. So I'll probably be posting up some video/pics of the pull(s) and of my new set-up since I will have time to do so afterward :Cheer: I don't expect much over 400hp (though 375 won't surprise me), but I'm definitely curious to see where my torque peaks at :D
 
shortbusdriver said:
thats gonna be a fun day for sure on the 29th
Click to expand...

That really sucks that I couldn't reschedule so you could come with after class...

Anyways, I started a thread in the Dyno forum with some graphs, so I won't repost... (finally) Hit the dyno for the first time... - Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together

I was impressed considering the low budget build I have; $200 turbo and a set of $200 nozzles and the rest is free (enginewise anyway)... Only hit 1250* and made 39psi of boost, so I feel they got all they could out of it since that's what I hit in OD on the street. But that also makes me hopeful that I can hit 500 #2 only before sending the turbo to II for a 66/65/VGT conversion :evil

But nearly 900 ft-lbs confirmed at the rear wheels really makes me worry about my poor stock input :bang So a billet input is priority #1 right now.
 
Thx for posting the videos! How does that actuator work for ya?
can you adjust it by small increments?
Is is pretty powerfull as to compress the spring inside the w/g actuator?
thx!
 
12valve said:
Thx for posting the videos! How does that actuator work for ya? can you adjust it by small increments? Is is pretty powerfull as to compress the spring inside the w/g actuator? thx!
Click to expand...

I can indeed adjust it on the fly in small increments. If you look at my dyno sheet you will see a difference of 80ft-lbs of torque between the first pull and the last one @ 1800... That`s because I bumped my switch a couple times to close up the housing sice I wasn`t 100% happy with the spoolup on the first run.

I`ll have to get a video of my linear actuator moving from EB to full open against the back stop :Cheer:
 
ah i see! I'd still like to try a linear actuator on mine...

yeah a vid would be great!

I forgot on which thread drive pressure was being discussed, well i saw a video on youtube of a 6.7 truck with a drive pressure gauge, with Exhaust brake engaged it went to 56 psi.
I believe a 12v should run some 60#Valve springs?
 
12valve said:
ah i see! I'd still like to try a linear actuator on mine... yeah a vid would be great! I forgot on which thread drive pressure was being discussed, well i saw a video on youtube of a 6.7 truck with a drive pressure gauge, with Exhaust brake engaged it went to 56 psi. I believe a 12v should run some 60#Valve springs?
Click to expand...

I`ll have 60# springs soon enough as those are needed for 4k governor springs :D My EB as of right now only makes 10psi of drive pressure since that`s where my WG actuator ends up limiting it... To get more I`ll have to put some sort of valve in the line going to the WG acuator. That way it will hold the collar shut instead of regulate it like it does now.
 
So are you using drive pressure for the Wg actuator?
otherwise i wouldnt understand why it would be regulating..

does it work better than boost?
 
12valve said:
So are you using drive pressure for the Wg actuator? otherwise i wouldnt understand why it would be regulating.. does it work better than boost?
Click to expand...

Sorry, the "update" post about my switching to drive pressure was a little while ago... I really like using drive pressure, no matter what I cannot choke the engine out since if there is a prolonged DP spike the housing opens enough to let it breath. There is no delay in the housing if I adjust it too small, just a little more turbine noise than normal. Having the linear acuator is nice for finding the sweet spot though :rockwoot:
Trapper said:
I really can't wait to find a 451 now.
Click to expand...

I know, I`m rather excited about the fact that S300 shafts and wheels will fit with little modification... Inudustrial Injections is pretty sure we can fit a 66mm comp and a 65mm turbine wheel in my frame... Some of the more common 431/451 frames might be able to handle a 68mm turbine! :Cheer:
 
12valve said:
so my 431 will accept a bigger wheel too? it has been lying in the garage since i got it...
Click to expand...

It should, IIRC you said the inducer on the turbine wheel was 76mm? The S300 wheel measures 74/65 so It will fit. I wish I had a 431 with the 80/67 wheel because the 79/68 S300 wheel would be less likely to surge with a 66mm wheel...Kinda has me thinking not to go any bigger than a 64. Or just say screw it leave it alone and build twins.

I`m just torn, because a single would allow me to pull at local pulls, but it`s going to cost $1k (or more) to have the work done vs less than $400 for a twins set-up if I fab my own with a salvage yard primary.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top