friggin headlights

dieselbeef

dieselbeef

dick doggin
drivers side is dim as hell..pass side is bright. not the bulb or the socket...dangit..one thing after another.

bad ground? I have been told a bad fuse on the headlights could make it do this. something about a positive ground or something

while we are on the subject of lights...whats the most badass ignorant pos light I can put in the stock socket on this truck. stock housings.

rude ignorant bright
 
The power and grounds to each lamp are tied together so a bad ground to one should be a bad ground to the other. When I've had this issue it was the socket.

You can find high powered "off-road only" 9004 bulbs online like these:

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/MTEC-4X-Super-White-Wattage/dp/B004N326SY"]Amazon.com: MTEC 4X Super White 9004 Bulbs (High Wattage): Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41M2XVhxZGL.@@AMEPARAM@@41M2XVhxZGL[/ame]

Those are 80/100 watt, stock is 55/60.

I just made a harness for mine to use relays and power the bulbs directly from the batteries instead of through the switch. It made a big difference in how bright the bulbs are. LMC Truck makes the harness if you don't want to build one yourself. I also used a diode and wired mine where the high and low beam elements are burning when on high. This made a HUGE difference. I can post an elementary wiring diagram and relay part numbers when I get home.
 
I have the same issue. It was the sockets, I just ordered them actually. So tired of my terrible lighting.
 
im going with the lmc up grade and then the ge bulbs. they are the best rated bulbs out there right now...
 
BigPapa said:
I just made a harness for mine to use relays and power the bulbs directly from the batteries instead of through the switch. It made a big difference in how bright the bulbs are. LMC Truck makes the harness if you don't want to build one yourself. I also used a diode and wired mine where the high and low beam elements are burning when on high. This made a HUGE difference. I can post an elementary wiring diagram and relay part numbers when I get home.
Click to expand...

The old "bright light" box. I have a start for one of them I had for my '02. It never got finished thought. Imagine that. LOL

That box doesn't say "off road only." It says.....sticks, sticks, and more piles of sticks.
 
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probably not something you are really looking for but i will be going the projector retro fit route. i have a pnp set of hids to get me by till i get the lights built.
 
oooohhhhhhhhhhh noooooo..just some better bulbs..and If I cant get the grnd or whatever is making the drivers side dim im gonna do the lmc thing. the pass side aint bad.but the drivers side is almost out its so dim...getting back into that tonight I hope
 
Would this switch have anything to do with the turn signals? My left front has power at all times, haven't looked at it much, just took the bulb out so it didn't drain the battery.
 
BigPapa said:
The power and grounds to each lamp are tied together so a bad ground to one should be a bad ground to the other. When I've had this issue it was the socket.

You can find high powered "off-road only" 9004 bulbs online like these:

Amazon.com: MTEC 4X Super White 9004 Bulbs (High Wattage): [email]Automotive

Those are 80/100 watt, stock is 55/60.

I just made a harness for mine to use relays and power the bulbs directly from the batteries instead of through the switch. It made a big difference in how bright the bulbs are. LMC Truck makes the harness if you don't want to build one yourself. I also used a diode and wired mine where the high and low beam elements are burning when on high. This made a HUGE difference. I can post an elementary wiring diagram and relay part numbers when I get home.
Click to expand...
Those bulbs won't melt anything being higher wattage?
 
BigPapa said:
The power and grounds to each lamp are tied together so a bad ground to one should be a bad ground to the other. When I've had this issue it was the socket.

You can find high powered "off-road only" 9004 bulbs online like these:

Amazon.com: MTEC 4X Super White 9004 Bulbs (High Wattage): Automotive

Those are 80/100 watt, stock is 55/60.

I just made a harness for mine to use relays and power the bulbs directly from the batteries instead of through the switch. It made a big difference in how bright the bulbs are. LMC Truck makes the harness if you don't want to build one yourself. I also used a diode and wired mine where the high and low beam elements are burning when on high. This made a HUGE difference. I can post an elementary wiring diagram and relay part numbers when I get home.
Click to expand...

Please do post a diagram. Very interested!
 
Howling said:
Those bulbs won't melt anything being higher wattage?
Click to expand...

Can't tell you. I haven't run them. I have run a very similar lamp in a motorcycle with no adverse effects.

Jehri said:
Please do post a diagram. Very interested!
Click to expand...

Here ya go. Credit where credit is due, this diagram was previously posted by GAmes. Thanks again Gary. Hope you don't mind me posting it here.

headlight%20wire%20diagram_zpsu9t3zukx.jpg


I used Gary's diagram with the diode. I also put 30amp fuses in the "battery power" legs. I bought new lamp connectors, Dorman "Hi-temp", O'reilly part number CTI 84791, instead of using the factory ones. The relay part number CTI 88069. I used 12GA wire and grounded each lamp connector directly to the batteries. I ran the wiring through split loom and across the top of the radiator opposite the battery cable. Even used the little p-clamps like the battery cable.
 
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This will make it a lot easier for me.
I like pictures, not a wiring master by no means.
Could you or someone tell me what number, size, value, of diode to use, don't know poop on electronics. Don't want fry anything.
& Thank you for the information!
 
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There is an easier way to get low beams on with the high beams other than putting a diode in the circuit. I'll have to do some digging, but there is one wire under the steering column. Just take the little blank panel off and put a .......scotchlock........ between the two wires. It is the ONLY time I ever use those POS connectors.

I'll dig and see if I can find which two wires. It works on 01 and 02 trucks.

I'll be damned...I found it. When high beams are selected, highs, lows, and fog lights are on. Makes a huge difference.

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It's the RED with ORN stripe and a green something. I'll have to look up the other wire. Do that first and try it. You won't even have to buy new bulbs and it makes a big difference. It's basically the same as holding your multifunction switch back.
 

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Wire from terminal 19 is "light green."

So just splice RED/ORN and LTGRN together. Don't cut them. Just cut the capped end out of a scotch lock so both wires can run all the way through and pinch it on. Done. That way you can just pull it off if you don't like it. I've heard folks say the lamps get to hot with both elements on. I ran mine for years and never had an issue and it is still on the road like that today as far as I know.

Take the little panel below the steering wheel off. Those two wires are in the bundle that is right there in front of you that go to/come from the multifunction switch.
 
If your lens is hazy like most of them are on these old trucks then no bulb is going to make up for that. I tried several high wattage bulbs on my truck and they were mediocre at best. I gave in and ordered new projector headlights and the difference is incredible. I wish I had done it sooner. I didn't realize how crappy my truck was to drive at night until I could actual see ahead of me worth a darn. I can see clearly at least 3X the distance of my stock housings with high power bulbs. About 1/2 a mile with the highs on. Spend the money you won't regret it! Panicking because you didn't see that deer on the side of the road sucks!
 
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