friggin headlights

Sorry for the derail, & I do appreciate all the knowledge & thoughts fore mentioned.
I decided to go for a tour of the countryside tonight, & my right headlight went out, no high, no low. Back to the house & pulled out the light to find the bulb had exploded. This is still on stock wiring except for the jumper "from the correct light green wire & purple with white tracer wire", installed new bulb, turn on lights, low beam went out. Hmmmm
All of a sudden the "light" (pun) came on. I'm from C(EH),N(EH),D(EH) & the truck has DRL.
I will start all over again, flocking hate wiring. Too cold & no garage.
Sorry for not answering all your Q"s BigPapa, best start fresh, & I will whip it.
Thanks you all !
 
I haven't given up yet. Did more reading & wasn't aware our trucks use a negative switching circuit. Learn something new every day.
I had the wiring correct, except for 1 thing. When I was grounding the relay, I thought ground to truck, that's where the sparks & clicking relay came from, (I hope).
I have built a new harness the same way, except I am now grounding the original truck light connector to the relay, with all other wires according to bigpapas diagram.
I did not cut the wires, instead I used an old bulb & smashed the glass off to reveal the 3 points, soldered wire to them & sealed it with rtv. From there, wires to relay,(in proper place) & then with the wires from relay to a new light socket plug I picked up, plus # 30 going to positive side on battery, with fuse links.
Now, as for the ground at the bulb, can I connect this to the battery for a good sold ground? &, do I use these 2 relays for both sides, as in y off them as previously mentioned?
Like I said, I am no wire guru, but can still learn when properly explained as it was, I just couldn't see the light, but I think I do now.
As for the DLR module I found you can bypass it by disconnecting the plug & make a jumper from pin 3 to pin 6 so the high beam indicator will still work.
Did I get it right this time?
 
wow...on a side note my new alternator made my truck run so smooth I cannot believe it could make that kinda difference. I swear the headlights are better too.
I know the alt and elec stuff on 02 is critical but the diff it made ..I would've never thought it
 
Got them working, whipped it just like 4x4 said.
The diagram was a great help, understanding it, for me (a little off).
It makes a very noticeable difference.
Thanks for the help gentlemen!
:Cheer:
 
4x4dually said:
There is an easier way to get low beams on with the high beams other than putting a diode in the circuit. I'll have to do some digging, but there is one wire under the steering column. Just take the little blank panel off and put a .......scotchlock........ between the two wires. It is the ONLY time I ever use those POS connectors.

I'll dig and see if I can find which two wires. It works on 01 and 02 trucks.

I'll be damned...I found it. When high beams are selected, highs, lows, and fog lights are on. Makes a huge difference.

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It's the RED with ORN stripe and a green something. I'll have to look up the other wire. Do that first and try it. You won't even have to buy new bulbs and it makes a big difference. It's basically the same as holding your multifunction switch back.
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Will this still work with the LMC truck HD harness?
 
After reviewing what I typed above...in order for lows, highs, and fogs to be on at the same time, the fog light relay also must be jumpered out under the hood. Not sure if I mentioned that before. This allows fogs with both beams.

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So is it red/orange tracer and light green or light green and purple/white tracer? Jory is that an 01 or 02 fuse box?
 
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