Farm Truck Compound Build Thread

Sounds good. I have 4.10 gears with just slightly larger tires. I actually picked up a s300g cat turbo that is a 60/65/14 that i might swap on later just to compare to the he351.
 
The he351 is probably a safer bet if your worried how it tows heavy. They have a good rep, enlarge the gate and I bet it would be a good match for what your wanting. I've never tried the 351, back when I put my set together, those chargers were still on late models.
 
As long as your fan clutch is working properly the stock rad will cool just fine. My temp drops like a rock when pulling heavy and the fan kicks on, that was this summer when it was over a hundred here.
 
So we made some progress on the truck. Got the head removed and bottom tapped the bolt holes. We are going to try and remove the rear freeze plug later today and get ready to install the water bypass. I want to clean up the engine some and paint the head before we install it. I will try and take more photos later today.
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Making some progress. Got all freeze plugs in the engine and hose on for water bypass. Put manifold studs in the new head but going to remove manifold to paint head tonight. Also going to tapp t stat housing for the bypass tonight. Should set the head tomorrow I hope.
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Behive springs installed and head painted. Also drilled and tapped the t stat elbow but I didnt like how it turned out. Im going to make up a splice on my top radiator hose tomorrow to tie the water bypass into.
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The head is back on and torqued to 130. The big fuel lines along with the duel feed kit is installed. That 90* fitting on the lift pump was hard to get on. Its a very tight fit!

Going to let the truck sit overnight, install the turbo,radiator, and injector lines in the am to get the truck running so I can do my hot retorque.
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I noticed that the wheel on my 351 is a little chewed up. Does this look like it needs replaced or would you guys still run it? I have another stock wheel or I can order a billet wheel for it.
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Only thing I'd mention is using longer bolts and spacers on your manifold to head. There's a reason the factory does it. Keep an eye on your gaskets for leaks there.
 
Did you clearance the valve covers? I usually leave the washer off the rocker bolts and grind the top of the stud down some for clearance. That or machine the top of the rocker block down.
 
Tate said:
Only thing I'd mention is using longer bolts and spacers on your manifold to head. There's a reason the factory does it. Keep an eye on your gaskets for leaks there.
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So use the stock spacers with new bolts? What is the reason for this?
 
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As the manifold and head heat up, they obviously grow in thickness. The bolt won't grow at the same rate, so you'll have a differential in expansion. This can plasticly deform the bolt if it is stretched too much given its length. This then ends up as a leak because the bolt is now permanently stretched and is loose, or its broken. Using a longer bolt with a spacer gives it a longer length to absorb the expansion, keeping the stretch in the elastic range.

I realize that people use short bolts and get away with it, but maintaining clamp load in a heat cycled application is easier with longer bolts.
 
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