My P24V build

That's a sharp looking truck!!! Definitely on my to-do list someday to build a shorty 2wd play truck with a 12v of course, but I can't hate, at least you have a proper injection pump in that rig!!!



It's a solid little truck for sure, but I know I'll like it a lot more with a short bed and an auto swap, bump up charger sizes and injectors, and do some work to the rear suspension... then MAYBE I'll be done with it. Until I grenade the rotating assembly, then who knows.


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Since the auto swap is next on the list, I'd like to discuss that a little more in depth.

Here's what I'm working with. It's a Revmax 47RE 4x4 that I had in my 98 12v that I kept when I parted it out (tragic, I know). Every billet part MINUS intermediate and output, deep pan, Revmax vb, so on and so forth.

I'm going to have it rebuilt despite it being in good working condition, simply for piece of mind and because it's been sitting for a while. While it's apart, billet intermediate will be going in, and I'm seriously considering dropping the extra coin on suncoast's stubby output shaft kit (shown in picture) so I can have a billet output as well, since converting to a 2wd tail housing would prevent me from having one.

The man building the trans is very respected locally, does outstanding work for being a one man operation. Slow, but he does one trans at a time, start to finish, before starting the next.

Because of that, I would like to source a lot of the parts myself, 1. To prevent any unnecessary delays due to part acquisition on his part, and 2. So I KNOW that the hard parts are up to the task.

So the questions that I have are:

Stall speed. Where should I be shooting for on a 64/483? Stock? Stock v10? Higher?

My budget is semi limited, around $3,000 to acquire the convertor, intermediate, and output. So what options are there for a billet intermediate that is in the $700-$800 range? Or is that an impossible expectation in regards to quality?

Is the output shaft kit a good investment on a 2wd? Some say a 2wd doesn't NEED one, others say they do, some guys have kept the stock 2wd alive past 1,000, others have shelled them at 600. There's just so much heresay and "this guy I know" stuff that it's hard to tell what is what.


Anyways, I'll stop here and wait for some input before I start rambling.
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Ah, one other thing.

Having the vb worked to be FMVB as well.

If I run LU and OD on toggles, I don't need a auto pcm, correct? What about the throttle valve cable stuff? Not needed either?

I can live with firm as hell shifts. Compared to this ceramic dual, I imagine it will be a welcome relief. HAHA!


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throttle cab wont be needed if you are running a fmvb, im not 100% sure but I think you don't need the pcm either, look at the tci outlaw shifter they have buttons on the shifter you can use for od and lu
 
throttle cab wont be needed if you are running a fmvb, im not 100% sure but I think you don't need the pcm either, look at the tci outlaw shifter they have buttons on the shifter you can use for od and lu



I'm dead set on the outlaw for sure, but I'm thinking about getting Muldoon's version as he prebuilds the wiring harness, and I'm a dummy when it comes to stuff like that.


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Someone is building billet 2wd output shafts. I would contact Will Terry from power driven diesel hes running one in his junker drag truck never seen a price on one though.
 
Someone is building billet 2wd output shafts. I would contact Will Terry from power driven diesel hes running one in his junker drag truck never seen a price on one though.



He's following this thread I think, I imagine he'll chime in


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A RE 2wd truck your good with the stock output, the RH are drilled in the center for the governor pressure. I've broke a RH shaft but never did on a RE on a 2wd that ran mid 10's.
 
After doing a little more research, it isn't a 4x4 47RE output, it's actually a custom made unit based off of a TH400 shaft, and combined with the adapter flange, requires a custom yoke. The only person that has it available from what I've read is Reid Racing for around $400.

Granted, this information is 2 1/2 years old, so idk if suncoast has started to carry their own yoke now, but there is no indication to them doing so on the website. And seeing as how this a pretty niche market, I could understand why they wouldn't, if they don't. Surely not enough sales volume to warrant them manufacturing their own. But I could be wrong.

So now I'm looking at $2000+ just in parts solely to have a billet output. Just not seeing a viable cost:worth ratio here anymore, for what will be a HIGH 10s truck...


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A RE 2wd truck your good with the stock output, the RH are drilled in the center for the governor pressure. I've broke a RH shaft but never did on a RE on a 2wd that ran mid 10's.



Thank you for your input. Curious as to your tire/suspension setup as well as the weight of the truck with fuel/driver??? I figure that plays a big role in the longevity of it.


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throttle cab wont be needed if you are running a fmvb, im not 100% sure but I think you don't need the pcm either, look at the tci outlaw shifter they have buttons on the shifter you can use for od and lu



The ones that I saw directly from tci looked like momentary switches for transbrake/line lock/nitrous type applications, not toggles.

That's not to say you're wrong, just saying I haven't seen that directly from TCI


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Oh I know what that nastiness tastes like. Why I don't like it......



Eh. Nobody is perfect

So I have an issue. It's extremely minor and petty, but idk what else to do because it legitimately has the anger sharks swimming in my head...
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faaaaaaakkkkk

Every 5 minutes, off the windshield she goes. I've tried spit. I've tried windex, I've tried alcohol, even acetone. If my windshield was a woman, I'd be in prison.

I've determined that the sticky cup mount is just a POS and I want it gone. But what to do?? The dash mount looks chincy as all get out, and I hate pillar pods. What other options are there? If anyone has any unique ideas, or knows of anyone who does, I'll be your best friend forever....


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