Build - 9 second drag truck #racegreen

I found these twist to lock poles in the window washing section at Home Depot. They are going to work great as a third and fourth hand. $10 each so I don't mind cutting them down or modifying them for a single application.

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#racegreen
 
I like your ingenuity. :) Heck of a nice build so far.

While you're on the subject of chassis/suspension books, what do you think of the performance trends four link calculator (among the other software they offer) for designing link suspension setups??
 
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Hmm, never looked at the software before, looks handy, especially when in a rush at the track. I'm going to download the demo and check it out. In the past I have hand calculated everything, then triaged on pirate 4x4 made his 4link calculator in Excel, so from then on its all I have used.


#racegreen
 
I've been procrastinating for weeks now about what wheels to buy. First I wanted beadlocks, then I decided to go cheap and buy some nice Weld Racing Alumastars and put wheel screws in them to save a cool $900 per wheel, then I found out what shipping was going to cost from there to here, so I decided to buy once, cry once.

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For tires I decided on the Mickey Thompson 3560 34X18.50-16LT M/T ET Street R.

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I'm trying to buy as many parts that will influence chassis and suspension design as possible so I can get busy before work gets in the way this spring.

For seats I decided to go light, hopefully I wont regret it every time I drive the thing to town, but the price is right and while I want the truck to remain "street legal" I really dont care how comfortable it is to drive. The longest trip I will ever do with it is less than 1 hour.

Kirkey Seat: 41900, Cover: 41911 Mounting Bracket: 99204

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One of my OEM spindles was badly damaged by the previous owner so I had to buy new ones anyway. Might as well get a little drop while I'm at it. McGaughys 44001 2" drop spindles are just a hair more than my cost on one OEM spindle.

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bgreen776 said:
I'm trying to buy as many parts that will influence chassis and suspension design as possible so I can get busy before work gets in the way this spring.

For seats I decided to go light, hopefully I wont regret it every time I drive the thing to town, but the price is right and while I want the truck to remain "street legal" I really dont care how comfortable it is to drive. The longest trip I will ever do with it is less than 1 hour.

Kirkey Seat: 41900, Cover: 41911 Mounting Bracket: 99204

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Those are exactly what I am going to do this winter. What restraints are you planning on running?
 
I ran the RCI#821-9210CD cam lock pull down harness all last year and see no reason to go a different way this year. The cam lock is well worth the extra coin IMO.
 
Someone PLEASE find me some good, fairly light, tires and wheels. 5 on 5.5 with 4.5 to 5" back spacing. 17x7 or 17x8. That "kinda" match my rear wheels.

I actually just ordered the ATX Ledge in 17x8, but I cant find any suitable rubber that's less than 9.x wide.


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The Nitto 275/60R17 isn't too bad...

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bgreen776 said:
One of my OEM spindles was badly damaged by the previous owner so I had to buy new ones anyway. Might as well get a little drop while I'm at it. McGaughys 44001 2" drop spindles are just a hair more than my cost on one OEM spindle.

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I got some drop spindles from MCG for my 2012 1/2 ton and they were iron vs the factory aluminum. You might want to check on that.

bgreen776 said:
Someone PLEASE find me some good, fairly light, tires and wheels. 5 on 5.5 with 4.5 to 5" back spacing. 17x7 or 17x8. That "kinda" match my rear wheels.

I actually just ordered the ATX Ledge in 17x8, but I cant find any suitable rubber that's less than 9.x wide.


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The Nitto 275/60R17 isn't too bad...

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You're putting a street wheel in front with beadlock drag wheels in the rear?
 
Iron?! Well that sucks. Maybe I'll just mill some dead weight off. :mad:

The rears are bias ply but they are made for running on the street. I can't find a street able bias ply front tire that will fit over the stock front brakes. I also can't find a decent looking drag front wheel that is rated for any where near the weight of a cummins powered truck. Unless I buy the exact same wheel as Milliken and I really don't want to do that.

If there are better options, I'm all ears!


#racegreen
 
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17" with 4.5" or less backspace on the stock spindle, maybe a little more with the aftermarket spindles. 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern.

#racegreen
 
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Look into bogart, holeshot, real, etc. and have them make you a semi-skinny wheel that'll do the rears justice.
 
Thank you. I will look into custom wheels more. They might have to wait for "Stage 2", but it sure would be nice to have a matching set of wheels that fit exactly how I want them to.
 
bgreen776 said:
Thank you. I will look into custom wheels more. They might have to wait for "Stage 2", but it sure would be nice to have a matching set of wheels that fit exactly how I want them to.
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I wouldn't worry about weight much. There are several trucks similar to how yours will be running around with skinny front runners.
 
bgreen776 said:
I have a back half offroad truck, fully boxed frame, and a substantial structure over the engine compartment, and a halo over the cab.

The first hot day you are rolling around with the windows down and you grab the top of the door/cab... you realize quickly how much a chassis will flex even one that has a fairly substantial roll cage.

you should really throw a pic or two of that thing up for these guys to see. I voraciously followed that build on pirate over the years.
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I received my copy of the SFI 25.5C spec yesterday; seems simple enough. :hehe:

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