ALH TDI problems

Get on tdiclub, these cars are not easy to diagnose. Everything is expensive and everything works in conjunction with something else. Definitely need vagcom, time, and a lot of reading
 
I just wanted to open this thread back up and first say thanks for the help guys!!
I think we finally got it fixed!!


I quoted my post below with the codes I was getting that were possibly causing my random "LIMP" mode issues... I was really frustrated with it. Especially since I didn't have the time, money, and knowledge to get at it right away..


So the other day I finaly took it to my buddy at VW that works on it on the side for me... I bought a new Glow Plug, Coolant temp sensor, N75 Valve, a seal he said was needed, & a new brake booster hose because mine split the other day and I lost my brake power... I taped it back in place until I got the new one and it actually worked :)

B962E91D-05DC-4462-AD3B-C16679EBCEC5-623-000000748B5D8DE1_zpsa28fc412.jpg






After everything was installed I went for a drive.. Got a CEL right off the bat but it didn't limp... After 20 miles or so and getting on the hwy (always seemed to do it while cruising on the hwy) it finally Limped again...
I was pissed after spending $300 (including labor for my friend).


So I reread this thread and did somemore research on other threads / sites. Googled the N109 code that keeps coming back...

These are the last two codes I was getting...

9C9C9D9D-BFBF-4A68-811D-97206F89E731-623-0000006B172C031C_zps81f9582d.jpg






So my friend said the CEL means it wasn't the glow plug itself and it's gonna need a harness... And I, after reading all the stuff here and other places about the 109 relay, decided to go that route aswell....

So I purchased them and installed the relay myself....


689C7903-4CF3-45BF-8CEB-3E472A501091-623-00000074886D653F_zps6e31365a.jpg


C58FAE2C-573F-43CC-A465-0C9438627920-623-000000748F444CDD_zps1b6fab43.jpg


9F3A9CAB-F49D-4498-8C03-224554D6C03C-623-00000074861885ED_zpsba4582ae.jpg


DDD1231A-DF41-4209-B424-E4A153C67B67-623-0000007483378CE7_zps8a09dc65.jpg


F5514F38-DD98-4B39-BFA3-22DC390AF668-623-000000749232EC7D_zps9d449b33.jpg






I have not had the Glow Plug harness installed yet so I'm still getting an CEL but after at 120 miles of driving, I have YET to have it go into LIMP Mode :) :) :)


It must have been that dang $20 Relay all this time!!!!



Thanks again everyone... I wanted to post the pics and info so it may help save someone else time and money i they have this issue!!

Thanks to Billysgoat for reopening the thread for me!!




SOOT4BRAINS said:
Just after I bought my tdi I battled with it for a few weeks trying to figure out what was wrong and the previous owner said the check engine light had never come on before:bs:. No help there. It would go into limp mode and I would get a maf code and a needle lift sensor code. Replaced the maf (found out they sold me a gasser one and they are different) still got maf code but a different one. Other times it would have low power with no limp mode and it would get worse the further you drove it. Finally figured out the maf was wrong. Finally figured out that the wiring to the needle lift sensor was hacked up. Put all new vacuum lines on. Still got intermittent low power with no codes and no limp mode. Turned out to be the 109 relay. Some call it the 601 relay, depends on how you look at it. Dealer calls it 109. This relay gives power to computer. When it gets hot it melts the relay solder enough to "cold flow" and sometimes break contact. Mine was allowing current to pass, but not enough. Best I can figure is the computer was flickering on and off causing a stuttering feeling and would cause low power especially under load. A new relay from the dealer fixed this problem and I resoldered the old one and carry it as a spare. The relay is under the dash. No problems with this since then. Maybe something to try, its cheap and in my case caused abnormal symptoms for this problem.

Aaron
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Big Swole said:
Got my codes pulled today:

My cars had the EGR deleted and the little actuator the closes the flapper when you shut it off was broken at the vacum line.. So it was removed.. I never replaced it..

Keep this in mind when looking at my code..

Oh!! And the little wastegate actuator arm was kinda hard to pull down and knly moved about 1/4 inch +\-... Is this correct... I tried to shoot a short vid while holding my phone and a light in my mouth... lol
i'll post it later..


Codes:

P0674 - Cyl. 4 glow plug circuit
P0402 - EGR circuit flow Excessive
P0245 - Turbo wastegate solenoid A Low
P0118 - coolant temp sensor ( been this way since I git it 35k miles ago)
P1538 - Fuel cut off valve Open Circuit


So from this, can anyone tell me where to start first??
I'm thinking the turbo or wastegate or vacum line to it.. But the line looked fine.
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black3d0ut12v said:
P0245 I believe is either the n75 valve or the vnt actuator. P1538 is an open circuit to the fuel cutoff on the I.p. its the single wire around the injector lines that needs power and I think it may be controlled by the 109 relay? Also I've read that the relays themselves aren't always the problem it could be the ground it uses. Hope this helps
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SOOT4BRAINS said:
I don't have a picture of it but it is marked "109" or "601" on the relay and is the only one under there. You have to pull the panel off under the steering column to get at it. Also true limp mode is accompanied by a CEL. Which you would not see since your light is on all the time anyways. Turning the car off and restarting will clear the limp mode until the car experiences the condition again. I would say your actuator is not moving enough. May be time to pull the turbo and clean it up. They get pretty filthy. If the actuator control valve was bad (which it may be) the rod would still move the full amount by hand.
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PDW Power said:
Coolant temp sensor code also deals with fueling on these cars. If reading the wrong temp or just bugging out it wont supply "vw correct fueling". You should have updated green sensor in the back of the side water neck. its a 4 wire. Glow plug cyl 4, replace all for glow plugs with Bosch glow plugs, average price around 15 a piece. also call dealer and get your glow plug harness and splice it in place. you either have a 2 wire or 4 wire. check which you have before you order. Also check 409 relay under dash. Should have updated one. last part number is 383 C. Also check and make sure you vacuum pump is supplying over 15 inchs of vacuum on a gauge, if it isnt your vacuum pump is getting weak, this supplys all vacuum for your N75 valve (runs waste gate on turbo) shut down solenoid and other various solenoids on these.

Vag com can be your best friend with these cars. Number one thing make sure pump timing is within spec of vw. How to get into to check this is 01 engine management, 04 basic settings, 00 hit enter on keyboard. now you will have a field of 10 blocks. you have to read field 2 and field 9. Field 2 should read 53 at min and max of 63. i set them at 60 to 63 run the best and wont melt piston. field 9 is fuel temp, not a big concern.

With limp issues. 2.0l AEG maf sensor works best for these. is i remember correctly its 06a 906 461. Ill check tomorrow when i get to shop to double check. yes veins in turbo get sooted up just like 6.0L powerjoke turbos. Another reason they lose power is check to make sure your seals on the fuel filter on return line arent rolled or missing or broken. Also make sure theres no leaks from fuel filter to tank if sucks any air lose of power. have a pin hole in one right at body behind pass wheel one time. Another reason can be fuel temp sensor in the injection pump. have to pull pump head off and replace sensor and reinstall and reset check engine light. In very few cases it was the ECU itself. if newer than 00.5 and have immbolizer you'll have to get that programmed by dealer. If have any other questions let me know. Ill answer them best i can. Oh run a scope if you can into the corner of the intake sometimes hidden soot build up that restricts air flow big time.
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I did a clutch and egr delete this weekend on my sons and now I'm gettin a code for the MAP sensor and it.goes into limp mode. Is this due to needing VAG com to open the.parameters more?
 
You can't change how the map sensor reads with vag com I don't think. Does it only do it under full throttle? Overboost can cause limp mode and it could be as a result of the vanes or actuator in the Turbo sticking.

Sent from my MB865 using Tapatalk 2
 
Let me clarify.. LOL. I didn't mean to say change the MAP sensor parameters . Because they read off atmospheric pressure. I meant MAF. I was told you can open the parameters due do more air flow from the egr delete.
It set the code with normal driving. He says it won't build more than 3 lbs of boost.
 
Try unplugging the maf sensor and see how it runs, I haven't done anything with mine via vag com and I can't see the egr or clutch causing a maf issue, mine ran the same after the egr delete with no other changes.

Sent from my MB865 using Tapatalk 2
 
I was.gonna.try that next. And see what I can pull up(if any) in data stream on the scanner and check values.
 
Ok.. I checked all I could from.pulling vacuum and putting pressure to lines to looking at all the data stream that I could see and this is what I came.up with.
Now dont Ya'll laugh but, I was thinking about when we were putting everything back together and remembered the paper towel I stuck in the turbo outlet to keep garbage from.getting it in and couldn't remember if my son took it out. Well, I stuck my bore scope down to the intercooler and it was clear. So I started the car with the IC pipe disconnected and it had plenty of air pushing thru. So then I went to hook it back up and started hearing another strange sound. I then looked at the other IC tube and found (don't laugh) that we forgot to put one of the clamps on the IC tube and it was leaking boost pressure.So I fixed that and drove it and whammo back to 15-20psi and all is normal. Lmao.. Thanks for the help guys. Sometimes its the simple things.
 
It happens. Glad it was something simple!!! My generic 10 vag com cable came today. If it sucks I will get the real one. Figure $10 is a cheap gamble.

What one do you have? I have the 409.1 iirc
 
You have the real one then? LOL

You def will know how it works. Either smiles or **** **** **** **** **** :D
 
Nope I have no VAG cable. :hehe: Im waiting for a guy I know to get his and check stuff out. If the one you got works then maybe Ill tell my son to buy one.
 
Looks like I spoke too soon! Ugh!

Mine limped again today after over 200 miles of driving "limp" free... It did it in the "Wierd" way again that I keep telling my friend and everyone about. It has something to do with a lose connection or something that's affect by a hard Left Hand Turn!!

I did a sharp u-turn today and it limped... Then did it again fairly quickly after that on the hwy which it used to do... Then once more while driving straight an accelerating, but it stuttered like it was going to limp bit didn't...

I've not yet had my friend pull the codes yet.. I'll do that Monday when we put on my new glow plug harness...

This is pissing me off!

Is there any possible way it's limping from the glow plug harness being bad, since I get that code and a CEL from it still?

Vacum hose with small leak affected by a hard turn????


With it being so random and sometimes stuttering, it would have to be a connection or something vs. my turbo vains being dirty I would think..
 
Any form of traction control able to cause that symptom?

From my Not-So-Smart phone
 
Big Swole said:
Looks like I spoke too soon! Ugh!

It did it in the "Wierd" way again that I keep telling my friend and everyone about. It has something to do with a lose connection or something that's affect by a hard Left Hand Turn!!

I did a sharp u-turn today and it limped... With it being so random and sometimes stuttering, it would have to be a connection or something vs. my turbo vains being dirty I would think..
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David... Maybe its your BIG asz in that little car? I mean the frame flex has got to be crazy.









:hehe:bif
 
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