Young gun's 94 build thread

Did some quick measurements, stock is ~40" wide including tanks, their widest for the radiator in the link is 31", stock is ~20" tall, theirs is 19". Core Is 2 1/4 on both. Seems like a decent replacement, just need to weld on some extra brackets for the top two mounting bolts and the bottom rubber mounts.

Thinking...

If you were towing alot, and working the truck for long periods at a time I could see spending the money on a Mishimoto. But for what you and I and most are doing with them. These should work just fine. And these are designed for low airflow applications.
 
Got a little done on the truck over the weekend. I put the valve train back together with a stock welded camshaft, front cover back on, also installed new to me 5x.020 Will Terry injectors, and set the timing back to 19*. Schedule challenges have kept me from working on it as much as I want to. I should have it going in the next couple days before I head to Lake Powell for a week. I returned the timing back to 19* for the time being while I get things gathered together to do a head swap. (the one on it has massive cracks which I beleive to be limiting max boost) I also bought a rebuild kit with the 286210 pistons for a motor I have and the block is already honed and ready to go. I cant decide if I want to drop in a fresh short block while I am at it.... decisions decisions
 
Might as well, do it once and do it right if you can pony up the cash for the parts needed, I mean it sounds like your almost there ..
 
Got a little done on the truck over the weekend. I put the valve train back together with a stock welded camshaft, front cover back on, also installed new to me 5x.020 Will Terry injectors, and set the timing back to 19*. Schedule challenges have kept me from working on it as much as I want to. I should have it going in the next couple days before I head to Lake Powell for a week. I returned the timing back to 19* for the time being while I get things gathered together to do a head swap. (the one on it has massive cracks which I beleive to be limiting max boost) I also bought a rebuild kit with the 286210 pistons for a motor I have and the block is already honed and ready to go. I cant decide if I want to drop in a fresh short block while I am at it.... decisions decisions

With what your into the rebuild kit for, all you need is main studs, rod bolts and a cam and some balancing and you've got a badass short block ready. Its the head work that gets expensive.
 
I think I'm going to sell it, tired of my truck being down constantly and a motor swap is just what I need right now....

I brought my truck home for the first time in three months yesterday, something is off, I get white smoke and popping like timing is still way low but it drives around alright, its a tad down on power. I still need to swap the oil pan with one I welded a -10 JIC fitting for a second turbo drain. It's also showing its age, needs to be aligned, steering bars, u-joint somewhere/ maybe a CV joint.

It's only money right?
 
Haha the price of owning one of these things. It's not cheap and man can they kick you in the ass when you need them. I am still trying to get mine on the road


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Having them down sucks!! I know I was ready to sell mine after being down for a year. But once I got the tranny in and drove it my love for the ol' bit$$ came back :hehe:
 
Having them down sucks!! I know I was ready to sell mine after being down for a year. But once I got the tranny in and drove it my love for the ol' bit$$ came back :hehe:

I was talking about selling the rebuilt short block I have for it, not the truck! I've had this thing for close to 5 years now, bought it for 2200$ when I was 16. It's not going anywhere!
 
How do you re-build your O/d ? My understanding is that there is this infamus 800#spring that will knock your block off it you mess with it ??

I am having multiple tras issues my self .. how do i make a HR a manual shift ?

AND MAN, I cant wait to see this thing go down the track, great build, I'm a recent grad my self , 3 kids and a wife and a job that dosnt pay well .. I'm just doing one part at a time too ...

The rear OD spring is definitely nothing to be effed with. You need a special tool to compress it on a shop press, then carefully release the press and make sure it is fully decompressed before taking it out. There is a round snap ring at the top of the output shaft, then a larger flat one around the drum that holds it in. I'd definitely have someone knowledgeable with tranny's show you how to do it. My builder worked in a shop where a young kid released it early and the spring lodged in the ceiling. To get it in you have to be dead center on the shop press and use a half shaft as a guide when compressing it or it can go in crooked. I've done mine about half a dozen times and it still freaks me out whenever I work on it.
 
Swapped my pan yesterday night, this confirmed a suspicion me and Brandon have had, wrist pin bushing.

Other metal pieces are from the old helix 2 eating everything.

y4uqy7az.jpg
 
On a positive note I finally cleaned up the oil leaks that were keeping me from hitting the track. Now my motor is keeping me from the track!

Motor build is on the horizon.

My minimum list

188/220
Main studs
Rod bolts
Fly cut pistons for a bigger cam down the road.

On edit: also contemplating having the block setup with cam bushings to run a steel cam.
 
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It's really easy to cut the block for bushings. I am bout to do mine. Looking at the same build


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On a positive note I finally cleaned up the oil leaks that were keeping me from hitting the track. Now my motor is keeping me from the track!

Motor build is on the horizon.

My minimum list

188/220
Main studs
Rod bolts
Fly cut pistons for a bigger cam down the road.

On edit: also contemplating having the block setup with cam bushings to run a steel cam.

You'd be surprised at what that cam is capable of with different LSA's. Most the time its the LSA that requires cutting the pistons versus actual lift.
 
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