Project Leftovers: The Rise of Frankenstein

Is that radiator going to breath enough? And why not put the water to air over where the stock abs, fuesbox, and battery go? Two pipes over the engine, and one straight to the head.
 
It would seem possible that the air entering the middle of the cooler would disrupt the flow from the other 75mm. wouldn't it be better for flow and cooling reason to have all air going through the whole cooler?
 
It would seem possible that the air entering the middle of the cooler would disrupt the flow from the other 75mm. wouldn't it be better for flow and cooling reason to have all air going through the whole cooler?

No, the inlets are on the ends, and the center one is the exit.
 
For being so concerned about driving the truck on the street and having a/c, those coolers don't seem very street friendly.
 
Is that radiator going to breath enough? And why not put the water to air over where the stock abs, fuesbox, and battery go? Two pipes over the engine, and one straight to the head.

Because this is interstage cooling and the outlet must go back to the secondary. I'm assuming they also want easy access to the top of the motor should adjustments or hardware changes be necessary
 
Because this is interstage cooling and the outlet must go back to the secondary. I'm assuming they also want easy access to the top of the motor should adjustments or hardware changes be necessary

ahhh duh. I forgot it was interstage cooling. Good call!
 
So are all your pipe connections v-banded? Just the reason I ask is it won't have any give on the piping when the engine torques over. Maybe throw a boot in one of the straight sections or use a wiggins clamp on one end. I'm sure it'll work but the engineer in me says that's a good way for cracks to develop.
 
So are all your pipe connections v-banded? Just the reason I ask is it won't have any give on the piping when the engine torques over. Maybe throw a boot in one of the straight sections or use a wiggins clamp on one end. I'm sure it'll work but the engineer in me says that's a good way for cracks to develop.

Or solid motor mounts?
 
If you look at the pics showing the piping from the first 475, there's a rubber connection at the turbo compressor cover outlet. Don't see anything on the second 475 though. Maybe it will be in the straight pipe section shown in the pics of the pipe routed directly in front of the top of the core support?


I'm not really a dodge guy but I love following Will's build threads. They're second to none.
 
Finally got a minute to catch up on questions:

Are you going to have two separate systems for each of the water to air coolers? It might be hard to get even supply flow between the two with one pump and a t-fitting. I suppose it wouldn't matter too much if they weren't perfect though. Just curious!

No, there is one pump that will feed both sides of the cooler with a tee or wye fitting. If one half of the cooler flows better, we'd rather have freer flowing cooler setup rather than try to restrict and balance the flow between the cooler halves. The thought process is even if one half cools better, the boosted air charge is merged so it doesn't really matter if one side drops air temp a couple degrees more than the other because the two air masses will mix and then be compressed again when going through the GTX.
 
Is that radiator going to breath enough? And why not put the water to air over where the stock abs, fuesbox, and battery go? Two pipes over the engine, and one straight to the head.

That is a great question, why not put a cooler over there? In fact, that is the precise location Todd and I have allocated for the large second charge air cooler that will be tasked with cooling all charge air prior to entering the motor.

It would seem possible that the air entering the middle of the cooler would disrupt the flow from the other 75mm. wouldn't it be better for flow and cooling reason to have all air going through the whole cooler?
One large factor in pressure drop and cooler efficiency has to do with the distance the air is forced to travel across the narrow turbulent cooling tubes. Generally speaking, it's poor design to make a long narrow cooler. A short-fat cooler with just enough length to cool the charge air is optimal from a design standpoint.

No, the inlets are on the ends, and the center one is the exit.
Correct!
 
So are all your pipe connections v-banded? Just the reason I ask is it won't have any give on the piping when the engine torques over. Maybe throw a boot in one of the straight sections or use a wiggins clamp on one end. I'm sure it'll work but the engineer in me says that's a good way for cracks to develop.

Not every connection is V-banded. We are planning for some amount of motor movement and torquing toward the passenger side.

Or solid motor mounts?
For a pure race truck, this is a great idea. For Todd's truck we are developing semi-rigid polyurethane motor mounts that will allow for some movement but substantially less than the stock rubber mounts. I'm not sure if (1) straight boot at the turbos themselves will give us enough flexibility so we may end up with semi-rigid cooler mounts to allow the cooler the slightly roll with the motor torque, just like the factory stock charge air cooler. Testing and tuning will reveal how much is needed.

If you look at the pics showing the piping from the first 475, there's a rubber connection at the turbo compressor cover outlet. Don't see anything on the second 475 though. Maybe it will be in the straight pipe section shown in the pics of the pipe routed directly in front of the top of the core support?
I'm not really a dodge guy but I love following Will's build threads. They're second to none.

Yes, both turbos will have at least (1) flexible connection with a strap of course....

I would say do one vanjen connection vs a boot for the flexibility and pipe expansion.
We'll take that suggestion into careful consideration, you've only got to blow up 1 or 2 premium 5 ply aramid boots to cover the cost of a quality Vanjen connection. There is a certain hose guy in California that claims his (5) ply race boots are virtually indestructible, we might end up with a custom boot or two from him if we stay with the limit strap boot design.
 
We'll take that suggestion into careful consideration, you've only got to blow up 1 or 2 premium 5 ply aramid boots to cover the cost of a quality Vanjen connection. There is a certain hose guy in California that claims his (5) ply race boots are virtually indestructible, we might end up with a custom boot or two from him if we stay with the limit strap boot design.

Having gone from boots to vanjen's, I would never do it another way. It is not just the boots, clamps, and braces, it is the possibility of damaging the charger due to overspeed when it lets go at full song. Not to mention not needing tools to pull them apart is convenient too.
 
Back
Top