99 FL60 mutt/conversion/repower project build

I did try and find what the timing was. Pinned the pump the rolled the crank towards TDC 35° and no hole.. it will be set at 17° going back together... Swapped the rack plug out.. from a #2000 to a #2095, there's shiney spot where the rack has bottomed out..
Need to do GS as well since I have easy access..
 
:confused: gues they'll stay there for the time being
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going try to find someone that doesn't have a mental break down when I ask them if they can bench flow my pump at it's current setting.. guys I talked to at CDS and WCD both had issuse when I called them...
Maybe when all said and done swing by Firepunk and get it dynod
 
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If you're still looking to have the pump benched, I got a name of the shop at 37 and 70. "The pump Dr." But that's all I got.

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If you're still looking to have the pump benched, I got a name of the shop at 37 and 70. "The pump Dr." But that's all I got.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

Yeah I'll get it bench flowed... When CDS was helpful he told me my 11m pump out flowed the 12mm new core pumps in stock setting.. my 8.3 is 275hp and their core pumps are 215hp.. I can't remember want the stock CC volume is... Engine/trans are back in the truck now timing is set at 17°
 
If you're still looking to have the pump benched, I got a name of the shop at 37 and 70. "The pump Dr." But that's all I got.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

Right by the hwy or??? Wasn't aware of any shops like that directly in the vicinity.
 
Just off 70, on the south side, across 37 from the T/A. I don't know what all exactly they do, just that my wife's cousin works there is all.
Right by the hwy or??? Wasn't aware of any shops like that directly in the vicinity.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 
oil leaks appear to be fixed,, had water pump start leaking, re tq the head bolts to 170ftlb, went to upgraded the magnets to stickers, truck started running on the hot side saw 227 bobtail... upper rad hos is hard.. lower soft.. start basic check of things... took IR gun, 190-200* surface temp on the upper rad hose... similar temp on top tank of the radiator… fins/core area 95-100*...pull top hose off look in find tube are sealed up by what looks like calcium type stuff... it flows but no-where near enough to keep temps where it need to be..

the 366/74 turbo spools nicely will hit 38-39# of boost
noticeable temp difference in the floor boards as well
new radiator should be here Friday :(
 
oil leaks appear to be fixed,, had water pump start leaking, re tq the head bolts to 170ftlb, went to upgraded the magnets to stickers, truck started running on the hot side saw 227 bobtail... upper rad hos is hard.. lower soft.. start basic check of things... took IR gun, 190-200* surface temp on the upper rad hose... similar temp on top tank of the radiator… fins/core area 95-100*...pull top hose off look in find tube are sealed up by what looks like calcium type stuff... it flows but no-where near enough to keep temps where it need to be..



the 366/74 turbo spools nicely will hit 38-39# of boost

noticeable temp difference in the floor boards as well

new radiator should be here Friday :(



Previous owner use stop leak and now your dealing with it?
 
Previous owner use stop leak and now your dealing with it?

Possible, there's white calcium stuff inside the donor radiator, the 99s radiator wasn't the healthiest, there was definitely corrosion inside it.... When I did the swap
I was planning on replacing it just not yet.. guessing there was enough left after to finally seal up it up and finish it off...

Snagged pair 75gl sq tanks from Dale's with hangers and steps.. should roughly double driving range, I've got dual 45-50 on it now, of which ~70 is useable
 
Well new rad definitely cools better than the OEM on did before clogged..
Cruise boost is down ~5-10# running 10-15 vs 15-20
EGTs up 200* Engine doesn't seem to choke out like before...
Got the passenger side tank swapped out with 75gl tank need to relocate battery box and both fuel filters so driver side will fit..

So far no leaks
 
I did try and find what the timing was. Pinned the pump the rolled the crank towards TDC 35° and no hole.. it will be set at 17° going back together... Swapped the rack plug out.. from a #2000 to a #2095, there's shiney spot where the rack has bottomed out..
Need to do GS as well since I have easy access..

Are you suspecting that the timing was really set that high?

Just off 70, on the south side, across 37 from the T/A. I don't know what all exactly they do, just that my wife's cousin works there is all.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

:thankyou2:
 
Are you suspecting that the timing was really set that high?



:thankyou2:

It would explain hard starting below 60° after the 5° I added back in March when I put new head on..

For some reason mind thinks the is relavent.. could explain why cruise EGTs are hotter

The 362 came through wherli and gate cracked open around 25# max travel about 38# is adjustable
The 366 came from II cracks open At ~10# max travel reached at 60#.. and is adjustable..
it also has a boost fooler of sorts that can delay waste gate opening by ~5# when screwed all the way in..
 
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