Farm Truck Compound Build Thread

Tate said:
As the manifold and head heat up, they obviously grow in thickness. The bolt won't grow at the same rate, so you'll have a differential in expansion. This can plasticly deform the bolt if it is stretched too much given its length. This then ends up as a leak because the bolt is now permanently stretched and is loose, or its broken. Using a longer bolt with a spacer gives it a longer length to absorb the expansion, keeping the stretch in the elastic range.

I realize that people use short bolts and get away with it, but maintaining clamp load in a heat cycled application is easier with longer bolts.
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Learn something everyday...How does this relate with Studs?
 
gwhammy said:
Did you clearance the valve covers? I usually leave the washer off the rocker bolts and grind the top of the stud down some for clearance. That or machine the top of the rocker block down.
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I talked to Hasliey about these studs and they dont require milling down the rocker stands but i did grind out the webbing in the top of the valve covers.
 
12valve95 said:
Learn something everyday...How does this relate with Studs?
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Be the same. The important thing is the length of it. Studs would give you a slightly longer effective length as it would be from the center of the threads in the nut to the center of the threads in the head. The bolt would be slightly shorter as its effective length would be measured from the bottom of the head. So on a 10mm stud, you would gain roughly 5mm of effective length on an ordinary nut.
 
I think we had the nuts torqued too tight on the exhaust manifold. We backed them off and retorqued to 25 ftlbs. We will recheck them after a few heat cycles. If i start getting leaks, I'll pull them out and put new bolts with the spacers
 
We should have the truck running tomorrow. I got real close Sunday but came down with a stomach bug and ended up hugging the toilet all afternoon! No fun!
 
Tate said:
Be the same. The important thing is the length of it. Studs would give you a slightly longer effective length as it would be from the center of the threads in the nut to the center of the threads in the head. The bolt would be slightly shorter as its effective length would be measured from the bottom of the head. So on a 10mm stud, you would gain roughly 5mm of effective length on an ordinary nut.
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I always thought it was to allow the manifold to grow in length as it heated up?

Cool build with the farm truck, I’m in about the same boat. What are you using for the water bypass? One of those fleece kits with the thermostat or a plate that’s drilled and tapped?
 
Muddin_dude06 said:
I always thought it was to allow the manifold to grow in length as it heated up?

Cool build with the farm truck, I’m in about the same boat. What are you using for the water bypass? One of those fleece kits with the thermostat or a plate that’s drilled and tapped?
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Thanks buddy! I wish i would have gotten more pictures of everything but i used a Keating machine rear plug with 1/2 port and used a check valve inline and a brass nipple to 10 an steel hose. Im making a 1 3/4 pipe to go into my top radiator hose with a 1/2 bung to tie my bypass hose into.
 
Only got to work for a lil while on it tonight. Got the intercooler and radiator in. I still need to fill the radiator and reclock the turbo a lil bit and should be about ready to run it for the hot retorque.

On another note, the intercooler looks huge on it compared to the stock one. It was kinda a pain to get on but looks good. I about hate to put the condensor in front of it ha ha.
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Oh, I forgot that I decided to stay with the stock radiator. After hearing about how good the stock one performed for everyone, I ended up selling it to my buddy thats helping me.

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Nice build so far. If you start becoming concerned about looks, it’s not a farm truck.

Keep the updates coming.
 
So i worked on a way to tie my coolant bypass in and decided to make a splice with a bung to dump into the top radiator hose. I found one online for 65 plus shipping. I had a pice od 1.75 od pipe at work so i cut it 5" long, swedged both ends a little, and welded a 1/2" bung on that i made from a fitting i had at the shop. I probably have $6 in the project.
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I wish i would have taken more pics of the head work i had done. I had him unshroud the valves and open up the exhaust ports all the way out. He cnc'd around the valves and did the rest by hand. I think it will help alot on bottom end flow. Im not worried about max top end power
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Well, she lives again. All back together and hot torque finished. I was surprised how much the nuts moved on a hot retorque. About half a turn on every one. Its running good and im ready to get the torques finished sp i can get the compounds on!
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I recently finished putting a Hamilton stage 2 head on with fire rings, I also couldn't believe how much the nuts moved on a hot retorque, every single one moved at least a half turn. When I did a cold retorque after about 200 miles not one of them moved.



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APWCU said:
I recently finished putting a Hamilton stage 2 head on with fire rings, I also couldn't believe how much the nuts moved on a hot retorque, every single one moved at least a half turn. When I did a cold retorque after about 200 miles not one of them moved.



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Good deal! I hope mine dont move next week on my cold torque so i can put my compounds on. What head studs did you use?
 
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