Fuel Pressure Gauge Location?

NickTF

NickTF

Single turbo turd.
Ok, after talking with smokem and several others it's time for me to check the fuel pressure on this truck and see what's going on.

Where are you guys placing your fuel pressure gauge and where is the signal taken from (keep hearing about the bango bolt???). Which gauge are you using? Got some injectors coming soon and want to know what my fuel pressure is doing before and after the injectors. Thanks guys!

Nick:Cheer:
 
Banjo bolt

You need a tapped bolt to replace the bolt in the fuel inlet banjo fitting on the injector pump. You can get one through Cummins part #4918413. It has an 1/8" PT hole tapped in the cap. Then you can plumb your guage.
 
Snedge said:
You need a tapped bolt to replace the bolt in the fuel inlet banjo fitting on the injector pump. You can get one through Cummins part #4918413. It has an 1/8" PT hole tapped in the cap. Then you can plumb your guage.
Click to expand...

Cool, thanks. Question, what all other parts will I need besides a 60psi gauge? Is it true I need a needle valve of some sorts? I would like to just have the gauge right off the injection pump and leave it there or somewhere in the engine compartment if I can't get it to clear right off the pump. Thanks.
 
Nick,

Rather than hanging the gauge right off the banjo bolt, do what I did and find a 1/8 NPT grease gun flex hose at your local auto parts store. You can get them in various lengths. I used an 18" hose. This will screw into the banjo bolt. Then get a snubber from Grainger.com, brand: Weksler, part number: BW42 for a little over $6. It's 1/4 NPT so you'll need an adaptor from the hardware store. You can also put in a brass needle valve for additional snubbing. All this will allow you to tuck the gauge somewhere near the fender and give it proper snubbing from the pressure pulses, which have been known to kill gauges. With the needle valve you can shut off the fuel to the gauge to save it until you want to check it. Then just crack the valve a bit and work the throttle on the side of the pump to check your pressure.

Just a thought,
-Jay
 
JGK said:
Nick,

Rather than hanging the gauge right off the banjo bolt, do what I did and find a 1/8 NPT grease gun flex hose at your local auto parts store. You can get them in various lengths. I used an 18" hose. This will screw into the banjo bolt. Then get a snubber from Grainger.com, brand: Weksler, part number: BW42 for a little over $6. It's 1/4 NPT so you'll need an adaptor from the hardware store. You can also put in a brass needle valve for additional snubbing. All this will allow you to tuck the gauge somewhere near the fender and give it proper snubbing from the pressure pulses, which have been known to kill gauges. With the needle valve you can shut off the fuel to the gauge to save it until you want to check it. Then just crack the valve a bit and work the throttle on the side of the pump to check your pressure.

Just a thought,
-Jay
Click to expand...

cool, thanks for the suggestion!!:Cheer:
 
i have the banjo bolt tapped...

Jay has some awesome suggestions, my setup is like his. BTW do yourself a favor and not run an isolator, those are pieces of crap.. Tap the banjo bolt and put a needle valve on it, with the needle valve u control the pulsations because no joke,the pulsations are furious... just barely open it when u hook it up. Because i ran an isolator, i have steel line from what was the pump to an isolator, then with a double male connection from Pep boys i run my gauge into the cab at the middle of my triple pillar setup using oil pressure tubing.. pretty slick setup and ive had no leaks.. but i did use a thread sealer, permatex i think... ill see if i can get some links to the pics..

Fuel_hose_into_cab.jpg


Fuel_Pressure_needlevalve.jpg


gauges6.jpg


hope this helps....

Rick

PM me if u have any questions..

Rick
 
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No need to tap the banjo.. There a "plug" on top of the filter head that I think is 1/4npt (not sure of size but Home Depot has the parts) I just put a needle valve right out of the head where the plug was, and plumbed the guage with 1/8" oil pressure line to the A pillar pod..
You'll want to close the valve to start, and just crack it a hair to keep the guage from jumping.. I have to adjust mine about once a month as the engine vibration will loosen it up a bit..
Also I used NO sealer... it's brass NPT and none is needed..

Brad
 
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Ridemywideglide said:
No need to tap the banjo.. There a "plug" on top of the filter head that I think is 1/4npt (not sure of size but Home Depot has the parts) I just put a needle valve right out of the head where the plug was, and plumbed the guage with 1/8" oil pressure line to the A pillar pod..
You'll want to close the valve to start, and just crack it a hair to keep the guage from jumping.. I have to adjust mine about once a month as the engine vibration will loosen it up a bit..
Also I used NO sealer... it's brass NPT and none is needed..

Brad
Click to expand...

That sounds like the simplest solution so unless anyone can give a reason not to do it like this this is the way i'll go. I'm going to keep the gauge some where in the engine bay though but if I suspect I'm loosing pressure while going down the road i'll move it accordingly. Thanks man, and thanks to the rest for the great suggestions and ideas:rockwoot:
 
NickTF said:
That sounds like the simplest solution so unless anyone can give a reason not to do it like this this is the way i'll go. I'm going to keep the gauge some where in the engine bay though but if I suspect I'm loosing pressure while going down the road i'll move it accordingly. Thanks man, and thanks to the rest for the great suggestions and ideas:rockwoot:
Click to expand...
I personally like the guage at the fuel pump inlet. The filter head will let you know what you have pressure wise to the filter. If the filter plugs up though you'll still see pressure on the guage but not at the pump.
 
The plug that you remove at the filter head is in the line that goes to the pump. This shows pressure coming out of the filter not into it..

Brad
 
Ridemywideglide said:
The plug that you remove at the filter head is in the line that goes to the pump. This shows pressure coming out of the filter not into it..

Brad
Click to expand...

You are correct sir. I was thinking of the smaller banjo bolt on the return. My bad.
My point being, the best place for a guage is at the pump inlet.
Whats the chances of a fuel restiction between the filter outlet and the pump inlet? Slim. The better question would be. Is there a chance? Yes.
Just trying to be helpful.
 
Easy Snedge, I wasn't trying to bust your balls.. :hehe:

I see your point with the possibility of a restriction, but I think that would be a remote possibility in that line.. Either way at least it's after the filter and it will tell you when your filters used up..
I think the best way would be post P-pump with regulator sans OFV..

Brad
 
How would one go about running a regulator at the overflow valve location? I like this idea best myself!

Thanks guys, both have good points!
 
Ridemywideglide said:
Easy Snedge, I wasn't trying to bust your balls.. :hehe:

I see your point with the possibility of a restriction, but I think that would be a remote possibility in that line.. Either way at least it's after the filter and it will tell you when your filters used up..
I think the best way would be post P-pump with regulator sans OFV..

Brad
Click to expand...

Its all good.:)
 
Ridemywideglide said:
The plug that you remove at the filter head is in the line that goes to the pump. This shows pressure coming out of the filter not into it..

Brad
Click to expand...

Brad, this plug you speak of is not a plug in my case, but a small bolt with a washer around it. The needle valve I have screws into a 1/8th pipe female connection which is much bigger then the plug/screw in that line. Guess if I don't want to tap I'll have to order the part from cummins for the 1/8" pipe female connection. Just to make clear i'm talking about the screw on top of the banjo bolt which runs from the filter to the injection pump, it's alot smaller then a 1/8" pipe.
 
Just make sure that if you put in that cubby hole that when you connect it to the banjo bolt you dont accidently ground it to the the fram then hit the + batery terminal.:bang

This has to be the 6th time i have messed with this gauge. If it leaks one more time i am going to install a new superchips gauge in its place.:drool1:
 
I run a regulator on mine. I have the ability to adjust the input psi by the regulator. I am running a big FASS fuel system and just decided to do away with the banjo bolt w/spring regulator valve line deal. I used a regular banjo bolt and that line goes into my regulator and then back to the fuel tank. The regulator is tapped and has a small gauge right on it. Not sure about the pulses that people are talking about. I only run the FASS, no manual pump.
 
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