Dicking Around . .

I always enjoy your builds. Your attention to detail and pictures showcasing your AR tendencies is much appreciated.
 
mhuggler said:
X2. You can actually remove the beginnings of a crack and not even know it by removing stress risers.
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Is it a precision job? Obviously you cant just hack at it like an idiot, but can you just be freehand on the same plane or does it need to be more precise?

I am gearing up to rebuild a 12 Valve from bare block up so I might as well do this while I am in there if it is possible for me to do.

Block has 247,000 on it so anything I can do to keep it living its new life, I am in.
 
12valve95 said:
Is it a precision job? Obviously you cant just hack at it like an idiot, but can you just be freehand on the same plane or does it need to be more precise?

I am gearing up to rebuild a 12 Valve from bare block up so I might as well do this while I am in there if it is possible for me to do.

Block has 247,000 on it so anything I can do to keep it living its new life, I am in.
Click to expand...

Pretty much any jagged edge on cast iron is a stress riser. In other words, it's easier for a crack to start there because forces are concentrated into focused areas. The name of the game is to smooth things out so forces are shared over surface areas equally.
 
12valve95 said:
Is it a precision job? Obviously you cant just hack at it like an idiot, but can you just be freehand on the same plane or does it need to be more precise?
Click to expand...
I used a 4.5" hand-held angle-grinder, a pneumatic die-grinder with a small diameter burr, the nose of a belt-sander, and open-mesh sanding-cloth.

The primary goal being to not hit the danged main-bearing machined surfaces. ;)

- Cut running the length of the object. Not across it (cutting across introduces potential stress-risers). Round any and all sharp corners.
- Safety-glasses and a mask are pretty cool.
 
OK. Here we go . . . .

Slathered-up the 24v tappets with assembly-lube and slid those boys in there:





Installed new piston cooler nozzles:





Installed the upper main bearing halves insuring that the lube-oil passages met appropriately:





Set that heavy-assed crankshaft in there. (In hind-sight, I should have at least cleaned up the forging-flash and stress-risers before having it balanced):





Installed the main bearing caps with the lower main bearing halves and temporarily pulled the stud-nuts up to 40ish ft/lbs:





Then test-fit the girdle:





Then removed the stud-nuts, slathered them with the ARP squeez'ns and, via multiple steps, pulled them up to spec:





150ft/lbs in this application:





We'll see, huh?
 
BC847 said:
I used a 4.5" hand-held angle-grinder, a pneumatic die-grinder with a small diameter burr, the nose of a belt-sander, and open-mesh sanding-cloth.

The primary goal being to not hit the danged main-bearing machined surfaces. ;)

- Cut running the length of the object. Not across it (cutting across introduces potential stress-risers). Round any and all sharp corners.
- Safety-glasses and a mask are pretty cool.
Click to expand...

Awesome, thanks for the info!

Watching this build, like the girdle!

Are you using metal oil squirters?
 
Found the setup in your carnage thread. Triple 362’s and 5x18’s on a VE.

Any track times? Just curious how much this thing was throwing down.
 
K204DR said:
Did you have to line bore your block to run the main studs?
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Nope. All that checked out good. Besides, in this case, you're only going 20ft/lbs over stock.



It was a slow day as far as engine building goes. Bits and pieces, nuts and bolts.
Speaking of bolts: I've chased the threads on all the bolt-holes of the block so, took the time to chase the threads of the actual bolts themselves. It was tedious at best. :x-out:

Anyhoo, did a final cleaning of the block's main lube-oil gallery and plugged the ends. Installed Speedy-Sleeves on both ends of the crankshaft:








Installed the rear crankshaft seal and it's associated housing:





And finally, installed the front gear-case. I went ahead and torqued all the case-bolts just to hold things square for now. BLUE Loc-Tited and torqued those internal gear-case to block bolts:

 
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Spent a few minutes on piston rings today. You know the drill.

A lot of this:





And, a lot of this:





With six of these:





To get here:





That piston protrusion initially looks excessive. Is this where I need a deck-plate? :1tooth:
 
I'm wrestling with, at least cutting off the bulk of the connecting-rod's, main-bearing cap's balancing pad for the reduction of reciprocating mass.

Thoughts?
 
BC847 said:
I'm wrestling with, at least cutting off the bulk of the connecting-rod's, main-bearing cap's balancing pad for the reduction of reciprocating mass.

Thoughts?
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I wouldnt unless you have access to a scale to make sure they are all equal, and then, what benefit? Has anyone else BTDT?
 
chrislib said:
I wouldnt unless you have access to a scale to make sure they are all equal, and then, what benefit? Has anyone else BTDT?
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I have all that required to do the work including re-balancing the rods. ;)

In my head: It requires energy to put mass in motion. In this case, we're talking about parasitic power losses. The lower the reciprocating mass, the less power required to get what's left moving. Said free'ed power can be used elsewhere.


It seems I recall some rule-of-thumb that suggests for every two pounds of reciprocating mass removed, @ 4000 engine rpm, there's approximately 20hp to be gained. At 5000 engine rpm, perhaps 40hp.

I won't regularly be spinning my heap to 4K and above but, it only takes, what, 0.001 second to best my competitor?
 
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I knocked a bit out of the underside of my stock pistons to get them all to the same weight. I think the carillo's were all nearly the same weight, but I did weigh them with a food scale and a jig I made. Weighed the wrist pins also.

It's my opinion that this engine is smoother when cruising than the other two B's I've owned, but obviously just SOTP opinion.



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Had to take a break and do work that actually pays for this mess. :bang

Back at it this evening finds my CDO has been worrying the crap out of me. I gave in. :doh:

While the connecting rod beams weren't bad (I guess), I went ahead and blended those surfaces. Same for the small ends:





Cut a big chunk of metal from the balancing pad on the big end. Blended all that as well:





I plan on balancing the rods and pistons in the morning (if I'm lucky enough to wake up ;) ).
 
What was the before and after measured weight of the con rods?

I’ve always known a phrase, “blue print, polish, and balance an engine.”
Blueprint meaning measurements of necessary components.
Polish meaning polishing of rotating components for less drag and rotating weight.
Balance for weighing necessary components to achieve a perfectly balanced rotating assembly.


Your thread reminds me of the feller who machined off most of the counter wright in his 12v crankshaft. Somewhere there is a thread about the topic. He followed through and ran the crank despite the skeptical feed back.
 
Red Sleeper said:
What was the before and after measured weight of the con rods?

I’ve always known a phrase, “blue print, polish, and balance an engine.”
Blueprint meaning measurements of necessary components.
Polish meaning polishing of rotating components for less drag and rotating weight.
Balance for weighing necessary components to achieve a perfectly balanced rotating assembly.


Your thread reminds me of the feller who machined off most of the counter wright in his 12v crankshaft. Somewhere there is a thread about the topic. He followed through and ran the crank despite the skeptical feed back.
Click to expand...
I went back to re-read what he had done when I assembled my engine. Seems like a dirt-bike accident did him in.

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