Converter lock up & OD switches

The internal wiring harness or the OD solenoid are electrically open. You could ohm between the 12V pin and the OD solenoid pin and should have a resistance value. (I don't know the functional range) OL means it's smoked or unhooked.

The temp sensor doesn't affect whether you can short that circuit or not, if you provide it ground the trans should react.

You could also put a meter between the wiring (trans side of your switch) you added and battery ground. You should see voltage if everything is as it should be.


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The internal wiring harness or the OD solenoid are electrically open. You could ohm between the 12V pin and the OD solenoid pin and should have a resistance value. (I don't know the functional range) OL means it's smoked or unhooked.

The temp sensor doesn't affect whether you can short that circuit or not, if you provide it ground the trans should react.

You could also put a meter between the wiring (trans side of your switch) you added and battery ground. You should see voltage if everything is as it should be.


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I thought a bad temp sensor could put the trans into some kind of a limp mode? Or does the cutting of the wire and running to a switch over ride that sensors ability to function ?
 
So do I test the resistance on the plug end that goes into the trans? With the ignition switch on I am assuming so the plug is getting power?

I've never done this before so you would have to dumb it down.
 
If your running full toggle switch,
Just supply key on power to the input on the Trans plug, and just bypass all other controls of the Trans.

Then throw the grounds to Od, and lock, and if it doesn't go into either, you have other problems.

Also I've ran mine with straight 12v off the battery going into the 5v input into the Trans for yrs now, never had a problem.
 
If your running full toggle switch,
Just supply key on power to the input on the Trans plug, and just bypass all other controls of the Trans.

Then throw the grounds to Od, and lock, and if it doesn't go into either, you have other problems.

Also I've ran mine with straight 12v off the battery going into the 5v input into the Trans for yrs now, never had a problem.

So you've ran a wire straight from the battery to the center wire on the plug with no issues?
 
If converter lock up is working fine on its own then that would tell me that the power wire and lock up wire are fine right? And if I bypassed the over drive wire with the switch...is that telling me its likely I've lost over drive ?
 
Have you dropped the pan and checked the wiring from the plug to the solenoid? I’d imagine the fluid would smell like hell if it burned up OD and shouldn’t have all of a sudden given out, would have been slipping.

Please find an ignition source with a fuse to power up the transmission, not just straight to the battery.
 
RELAY???

In regards to this my truck is currently running only a lockup switch. I also want to add OD on a switch.. do I need to run a jumper in that relay spot as well like I do the TC?
 
So do I test the resistance on the plug end that goes into the trans? With the ignition switch on I am assuming so the plug is getting power?

I've never done this before so you would have to dumb it down.
No, you never test resistance on an energized circuit. In your case, unplug the trans and test the internal harness at its connector.


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Maybe make it clearer, maybe not.
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So I bought a volt meter....have no clue what I am doing honestly. Unhooked the batteries and put the black wire to the frame and the red wire to each of the pins on the trans plug and got no reading on any of the various dials on the volt meter.

I haven't dropped the pan yet to take a look at the fluid. I did pull the dipstick and the fluid is a darker red then fresh oil. I lost my sense of smell 2 years ago with covid so smelling it to see if it's burnt wont help lol Roughly 20K miles on a rebuilt tranny. When I bought the trans it had no overdrive....so I hope it's not a reoccurring failure issue.
 
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