Converter lock up & OD switches

9 LIVES

9 LIVES

Demolition Expert
Tired of messing with my TPS. I want to put lockup and over drive on switches. 15 years ago I did this to one of my trucks....can't remember how to do it.

I prefer to splice into the plugs wires at the tyranny. I know the wire closest to the front of the truck is OD and the rear plug is LU with the center being power. Do I just run wires off of those inner and outer wires to the switches? Do I need to leave the power wire alone or does that get run to the switches as well? Do the switches need power at all? If I can remember correctly, your only grounding the wires with the switches so no power was needed at all right?
 
Leave the power wire alone.

Supply a ground to the 2 toggle switches, then tie into the lock and OD wire.
 
Do you ground the switches to the frame or just the wire from the plug on the trans ? I know that's a stupid question, just trying to wrap my head around it.
 
Are you having trouble with OD, too?

I put a dimmer switch in the floor for lockup. Never had an issue with OD.

I cut the wire on the fire wall and ran a single wire to the floor switch and a wire from the switch to a ground.
 
Right now I have been driving around with no OD for 2 weeks.
I've put at least 3 TPS on there each lasting 6-8 months. Then I tried a module that dnr customs sold which eliminates the tps and you can tune your OD on knob, that never worked great. It would go into OD to early bogging the engine. I put up with that for a few years and now that has stopped working.

Just want to eliminate all the headache I can and would rather control with switches.
 
I never got a potentiometer to work worth a damn on my truck. It locks up at 52mph with 4.10 gears, 3.55 gears, 3 different potentiometers and any setting what so ever. Every time.

Follow what Jason said and you are good to roll.
 
Run a ground wire from the frame, battery, wherever as long as it's a solid ground connection.

Run that wire to your switches.

Then from the switches tie into the lock, OD wires at the Trans plug.

When you flip the switch, so send a ground to either the lock/OD where you tapped into the harness at the Trans plug.
 
All correct. You are supplying ground to the circuit via a switch. I did have to think about it, it’s been a while.

Never had luck with the floor switch for lockup. I tried 3 different switches from the parts store and all were hit and miss when I really needed lockup.
 
Red Sleeper said:
Never had luck with the floor switch for lockup. I tried 3 different switches from the parts store and all were hit and miss when I really needed lockup.
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Hmm. Never had a problem with mine, except for that time the wife was driving it and had accidentally stepped on the switch. When she had to stop behind a car turning left and the truck died and wouldn’t restart, I got a real bad phone call….

Anyway, I found it very convenient since your left foot’s not doing anything with an auto. It was my clutch pedal.
 
bateman said:
I never got a potentiometer to work worth a damn on my truck. It locks up at 52mph with 4.10 gears, 3.55 gears, 3 different potentiometers and any setting what so ever. Every time.

Follow what Jason said and you are good to roll.
Click to expand...

Mine would go into OD at roughly 43-45mph regardless of how I had the knob set...and that was horrendous towing loads up hill. I was always fiddling with the knob all day long.
 
Red Sleeper said:
Am I the only who brakes with the left foot in an automatic truck?
Click to expand...

My 96 year old grandfather was always a 2 foot driver. I thought it was interesting but my mom would tell me not to follow what he does, she said it was a bad idea. Sitting at long stop lights I will hold the brake pedal with my left foot to give my right foot a rest.
 
jasonc said:
Run a ground wire from the frame, battery, wherever as long as it's a solid ground connection.

Run that wire to your switches.

Then from the switches tie into the lock, OD wires at the Trans plug.

When you flip the switch, so send a ground to either the lock/OD where you tapped into the harness at the Trans plug.
Click to expand...

Got it now! thanks for the help. This will be my weekend project. :bow:
 
9 LIVES said:
Mine would go into OD at roughly 43-45mph regardless of how I had the knob set...and that was horrendous towing loads up hill. I was always fiddling with the knob all day long.
Click to expand...

If to early of OD is your only complaint when towing.

I would just add a switch to disengage OD until you want it.

Just add one toggle switch, and cut the od wire at the plug, then splice in to a toggle switch.

That way when towing heavy, leave everything alone and just keep OD out of play until your ready for it.

This will also allow the truck to be in 3rd gear convertor locked.
When just driving normal, not towing, just leave the toggle switch for OD on, and it comes in at 43mph on its own.
 
jasonc said:
If to early of OD is your only complaint when towing.

I would just add a switch to disengage OD until you want it.

Just add one toggle switch, and cut the od wire at the plug, then splice in to a toggle switch.

That way when towing heavy, leave everything alone and just keep OD out of play until your ready for it.

This will also allow the truck to be in 3rd gear convertor locked.
When just driving normal, not towing, just leave the toggle switch for OD on, and it comes in at 43mph on its own.
Click to expand...

With the little potentiometer device from DNR customs it would go into OD to early....now the device stopped working, so I am moving on to switches.
 
The only thing I did not see mentioned is that you need to remove the relay that supplies the trans and replace it with a jumper wire across the appropriate pins. The PCM interrupts power to the trans via that relay, but I never explored why, but I do know it can cause the delayed functions some of you mentioned.
I didn't see what year you are working with, 95 and early 96 trucks have to be flashed to an Alaskan flash file or the the PCM limps out when you short the circuits to ground.

I ran a pot on mine for years, probably still have it in a box some where.
My discontent with that setup led me to build my own micro controller and then into beta testing for the ant eater controller. Been with the anteater for 8 years and two trucks now.





Sent from my motorola one 5G using Tapatalk
 
biggy238 said:
The only thing I did not see mentioned is that you need to remove the relay that supplies the trans and replace it with a jumper wire across the appropriate pins. The PCM interrupts power to the trans via that relay, but I never explored why, but I do know it can cause the delayed functions some of you mentioned.
I didn't see what year you are working with, 95 and early 96 trucks have to be flashed to an Alaskan flash file or the the PCM limps out when you short the circuits to ground.

I ran a pot on mine for years, probably still have it in a box some where.
My discontent with that setup led me to build my own micro controller and then into beta testing for the ant eater controller. Been with the anteater for 8 years and two trucks now.





Sent from my motorola one 5G using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I was unaware of this. Mine is a 95 but it has a sticker of a Chrysler mod or update on the computer. Wonder how to know if it’s flashed. Guess I’ll see when I get it all working.
 
So I hooked one wire from the negative terminal on the battery to a switch the other side of the switch i wired to the od wire on the trans plug. Still no OD....only thing I know to try is to replace the trans temp sensor, is there anything else that could stop it from going into OD. I sure hope its not fried OD clutches...
 
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