HE351VE on a 12 valve

what would you use to bring the veins back to rest?.... I believe when you release the throttle both boost and drive pressure go away and that leaves the veins were they are since there is still equilibrium..... Am i wrong?
 
CSM diesel said:
Started thinking about this a little more now, scary I know!

I vacuum solenoid/servo (double acting cyl to be exact) might be in order to maintain the minimum geometry position for the housing. Flip a switch and its exhaust brake mode!!

Then I can tune the minimum geometry position for maximum spool up and not have to worry about choking the engine out.

And I had another thought..... even MORE scary!!

What about using a doubling acting cyl using drive pressure to open the veins and boost pressure to close the veins.

When drive pressure is higher than boost pressure, the veins would open and allow drive pressure to decrease bringing the system to equilibrium, boost psi = drive psi.

When boost psi is higher than drive, the veins would close, causing drive pressure to build and once again bringing the system to equilibrium along with spooling the turbo faster.

Follow?:bang

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

I was actually thinking the same exact thing... Never have to worry about going over 1:1 or pushing the turbo off it's map :Cheer:

EDIT: though for now I'll probably just go with using drive pressure to open the vanes since that doesn't require changing much on my set up :D
 
LOL forgot about that one. Maybe a spring inside the cyl. So it would be a double acting cyl w/ spring closure. Have to balance the spring force so it could pull the veins shut but still allow the drive pressure to push against it...
 
CSM diesel said:
LOL forgot about that one. Maybe a spring inside the cyl. So it would be a double acting cyl w/ spring closure. Have to balance the spring force so it could pull the veins shut but still allow the drive pressure to push against it...
Click to expand...

Maybe just one of the cheapo wastegate actuators off of ebay.... The spring rate is as low as 7psi and I think some might even be as low as 4psi for the dual port ones. Just a thought.

EDIT: I forgot to mention, and I should post it in my thread too, that I found out something interesting... The arm on the turbo can walk up and down ever so slighty. It rests all the way down, but when it walks up it makes it much harder for the arm to move in either direction. I still haven't done it, but I plan to build a set up that will keep the arm from coming up using a pressure screw (sort of). Instead of holding pressure on it I will set the screw as close as I can without putting pressure on it. I plan on using that dimple that seems to be centered over the shaft as the point to "hold" pressure.
 
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Will one of these pneumatic actuators hold up to the heat of the drive pressure?

I had thought of using the double acting also, with manifold pressure on one side and drive on the other, but you would need a spring to bring the veins back to the base set point.
 
CSM diesel said:
Started thinking about this a little more now, scary I know!

I vacuum solenoid/servo (double acting cyl to be exact) might be in order to maintain the minimum geometry position for the housing. Flip a switch and its exhaust brake mode!!

Then I can tune the minimum geometry position for maximum spool up and not have to worry about choking the engine out.

And I had another thought..... even MORE scary!!

What about using a doubling acting cyl using drive pressure to open the veins and boost pressure to close the veins.

When drive pressure is higher than boost pressure, the veins would open and allow drive pressure to decrease bringing the system to equilibrium, boost psi = drive psi.

When boost psi is higher than drive, the veins would close, causing drive pressure to build and once again bringing the system to equilibrium along with spooling the turbo faster.

Follow?:bang

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

i was thinking of the same thing with using boost and drive pressure to keep the system equal.

Garrett
 
apwatson50 said:
Will one of these pneumatic actuators hold up to the heat of the drive pressure?

I had thought of using the double acting also, with manifold pressure on one side and drive on the other, but you would need a spring to bring the veins back to the base set point.
Click to expand...

I think if you use a long enough piece of copper tubing and coil it then it should bring the heat down enough that the actuator will handle it.
 
What do guys use in their twins setup where they use drive pressure to actuate an external wastegate?

Also what did you use for the down pipe flange?
 
apwatson50 said:
What do guys use in their twins setup where they use drive pressure to actuate an external wastegate?

Also what did you use for the down pipe flange?
Click to expand...

Don't know on that one... Maybe they're built to take the heat since they are usually mounted directly to the exhaust manifold??? I just used the dp from my HX40; I have a 400 series but I'm sure the 300 series are the same.
 
I had a sudden epifanie over lunch on this matter....

Have a 4 port 3 way valve/solenoid to direct vacuum to the port that was driven by drive pressure. Suck that baby shut!

Yea?
 
BlackSkyRacing said:
Don't know on that one... Maybe they're built to take the heat since they are usually mounted directly to the exhaust manifold??? I just used the dp from my HX40; I have a 400 series but I'm sure the 300 series are the same.
Click to expand...


I have heard from someone that the HE351cw would bolt up to a standard 4" HX40 downpipe. Did yours bolt right up, and not leak?

I sat an HX40 16cm exhaust housing outlet on top of my HE351 exhaust outlet, and it was just a little smaller than the HE351, but not much, so i was hoping i could get by with running my 4" downpipe that is already on the truck. I know my clamp will open up larger. This is good new for me if it will work:rockwoot:

Eric
 
Oh and setting up a condensate coil of appropriate length should negate any heat effects of drive pressure, heck, i have a length of nylon tubing attached after the copper condensate coil going to my drive pressure gauge in the cab.
 
CSM diesel said:
I had a sudden epifanie over lunch on this matter....

Have a 4 port 3 way valve/solenoid to direct vacuum to the port that was driven by drive pressure. Suck that baby shut!

Yea?
Click to expand...

I follow ya.....but how are you going to control whether you are getting vacumn or pressure to the solenoid that is controlling the veins?
 
the 4 port 3 way valve, blow though a couple ports, switch on the skinny pedal when you come off of it, and energize the coil then suck through the other ports. Its a fancy way of saying 3 way valve. Suck, switch, blow all through the same hose coming out one end.

two hoses in one hose out.
 
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