-Boostjunky-
Boost-A-Holic
Cool. Thanks for the help!
Miss at idle & Blow-by from valve cover!
- Thread starter -Boostjunky-
- Start date
Cool. Thanks for the help!
SledPuller21
Never enough
Why not just rebuild your motor? I highly doubt your block is beyond saving.
-Boostjunky-
Boost-A-Holic
It will really come down to how significant the damage is. If I can get away with a simple piston replacement, that will be the first thing I do.
Upon initial thought, I was liking the idea of the extra displacement of the 6.7L, as well as the seemingly better flowing cylinder head (if you look at most dyno graphs of 6.7L setups, you'll notice they carry the torque curve longer than most 5.9L setups.).
But after talking to Browns Diesel about a 6.7L swap into an '05, I don't think I'll be taking that route. Now if I had a 03-04.5, It's something I'd certainly consider.
Upon initial thought, I was liking the idea of the extra displacement of the 6.7L, as well as the seemingly better flowing cylinder head (if you look at most dyno graphs of 6.7L setups, you'll notice they carry the torque curve longer than most 5.9L setups.).
But after talking to Browns Diesel about a 6.7L swap into an '05, I don't think I'll be taking that route. Now if I had a 03-04.5, It's something I'd certainly consider.
-Boostjunky-
Boost-A-Holic
I didn't do it simply for HP. I did it for "On the fly" adjustment AND good power. That is all.
I have the Smarty PoD, and the PoD is next to worthless, IMO. You can adjust it down, but it hardly has any effect on the amount of smoke that the truck throws around. And it's hardly as "handy" as the on-the-fly adjustability of the Edge.
In any event, it was an experiment that obviously went wrong. I took all precautions to try to safely make it work, but due to the massive amount of mis-information floating around on internet forums, and the lack of absolute information offered by the makers of programmers and tuners in the way they tune our trucks, is ultimately what led to the demise of my motor.
Now, in the end, I don't blame anyone but myself. So please don't take this as me blaming other people.
But I'll tell ya, I've spent countless hours researching and trying to come up with a viable stack that would result in good power increases with ease of adjustability.
I have the Smarty PoD, and the PoD is next to worthless, IMO. You can adjust it down, but it hardly has any effect on the amount of smoke that the truck throws around. And it's hardly as "handy" as the on-the-fly adjustability of the Edge.
In any event, it was an experiment that obviously went wrong. I took all precautions to try to safely make it work, but due to the massive amount of mis-information floating around on internet forums, and the lack of absolute information offered by the makers of programmers and tuners in the way they tune our trucks, is ultimately what led to the demise of my motor.
Now, in the end, I don't blame anyone but myself. So please don't take this as me blaming other people.
But I'll tell ya, I've spent countless hours researching and trying to come up with a viable stack that would result in good power increases with ease of adjustability.
Gibson
There's no love in diesel
Tuning is an art. Off the shelf 'custom' tunes don't always work. If you want it right go to the sourse and have a tune made speficly for your truck to accomadate mods. Say an all out track file, daily drive file, and stock or tow file. I'll spend the extra 5 mins to change files on a single tuner than experiment with multipal arragmemts with on the fly. Now if only a cummins would work on SCT. I think that's the only reason I'm building a piwerstroke... Sorry to hear about your engine. Time to build it up rock solid now.
-Boostjunky-
Boost-A-Holic
I hear ya on all that. I am a tuner myself. I own a '04 Dodge Neon SRT-4 that I've been building for the last few years. It started out as my daily driver, and slowly evolved into a track car over the years. It has a standalone AEM EMS that I tune myself. It was putting down 628whp, 557wtq uncorrected @ 5400ft. elevation (714whp 635wtq corrected) on a factory bottom end for a few months before I ended up bending a rod.
Right now I'm in the middle of building a rock solid bottom end for it, and now this...LOL
Here's a vid if anyone cares to see it:
Click here for vid since I can't figure out how to embed it.
-Boostjunky-
Boost-A-Holic
Update:
Looks like it was not a timing issue, afterall. I did a pressure test on the cylinders, and wouldn't you know it, the last cylinder I checked was the one at fault (cylinder # 1, no less. I started with Cyl # 6, thinking it was the most likely culprit.).
I assumed it would be either #6, or maybe #2, as I've heard those are the 2 most common failures.
Now, here's the kicker. I pulled the head off expecting to see a nice sized hole in my piston, but to my surprise, the piston looked PERFECT!
What didn't look so hot was the cylinder wall. The wall is scored pretty badly, so much in fact, that I doubt I could hone it clean. Ironically, #6 and #2 had the cleanest cylinder walls of all 6 cylinders.
I will be rebuilding the entire motor, and going a little overboard, as I tend to do when things go awry like this. Right now I'm kicking around the idea of the following build:
Ceramic coated pistons (probably .010" overbore if I can get away with it)
Balance bottom end
Shot peen rods
Upgrade Bottom and Top end fasteners
Aftermarket camshaft
Stiffer valve springs (will be running Smarty TNT/R after this)
Stiffer/thicker Pushrods
90HP injector nozzles
CP3 upgrade (at the least a "bag of parts")
Possibly a side feed ZZFabrications Intake Manifold
Ported cylinder head
Custom lift pump/fuel system (Stainless braided -8 feed line from tank to CP3, Mitsua belt-drive pump, BF1212 water separator, CAT 1R 0750 fuel filter - Built by myself)
We'll see how it all pans out. A lot of my wish list may end up being just that...a wish list. But that's what I'm looking to do. It will all come down to the all mighty dollar, of course.
Wish me luck!
Looks like it was not a timing issue, afterall. I did a pressure test on the cylinders, and wouldn't you know it, the last cylinder I checked was the one at fault (cylinder # 1, no less. I started with Cyl # 6, thinking it was the most likely culprit.).
I assumed it would be either #6, or maybe #2, as I've heard those are the 2 most common failures.
Now, here's the kicker. I pulled the head off expecting to see a nice sized hole in my piston, but to my surprise, the piston looked PERFECT!
What didn't look so hot was the cylinder wall. The wall is scored pretty badly, so much in fact, that I doubt I could hone it clean. Ironically, #6 and #2 had the cleanest cylinder walls of all 6 cylinders.
I will be rebuilding the entire motor, and going a little overboard, as I tend to do when things go awry like this. Right now I'm kicking around the idea of the following build:
Ceramic coated pistons (probably .010" overbore if I can get away with it)
Balance bottom end
Shot peen rods
Upgrade Bottom and Top end fasteners
Aftermarket camshaft
Stiffer valve springs (will be running Smarty TNT/R after this)
Stiffer/thicker Pushrods
90HP injector nozzles
CP3 upgrade (at the least a "bag of parts")
Possibly a side feed ZZFabrications Intake Manifold
Ported cylinder head
Custom lift pump/fuel system (Stainless braided -8 feed line from tank to CP3, Mitsua belt-drive pump, BF1212 water separator, CAT 1R 0750 fuel filter - Built by myself)
We'll see how it all pans out. A lot of my wish list may end up being just that...a wish list. But that's what I'm looking to do. It will all come down to the all mighty dollar, of course.
Wish me luck!