MY p-pump swap/ motor rebuild pics...

JFlagg

JFlagg

Gun for Hire
:shake:Finally got he head and block back from the machine shop... only to have to take it elsewhere to get the firerings cut since the machine shop I went to didn't do that...:doh: Either way, thanks to Phase 2 machine in STL for getting it finished and MCS Diesel for fire-ringing it for me. :rockwoot: I painted yesterday so I could start putting it together this week hopefully... Hope the color choice is OK with everyone... Not like your opinions matter to me since its my truck :shake: Here is what I have so far....

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And before everyone starts telling me the block looks orange... it is RED. Regular old Rustoleum Apple Red, LOL Though, I admit, the pics look a bit orange. All the bolt ons will be Rustoleum Metallic Gray... just slightly darker than my truck. The red and gray should look good together IMO.
 
Here are some of the bolt-ons...
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There are alot of other pics, but I'll post them up later.
 
SmokinCummins said:
Fire ring Block and head huh. Your not planning to blow a gasket are you. lol

May as well do 14mm studs while your at it.:poke:
Click to expand...

If I was going with big studs, I would go 9/16", they are cheaper and almost the exact same size... And I figured I might as well only do this once. Hopefully LOL

As far as the rest of the plans, I have a Maxspool 2.5 cam coming sometime hopefully... And an S465 that should be here any day now. The p-pump is a 180 pump with a 0 plate, modded AFC and a 5kGSK on the way. Also have... .093 lines from Haisley, a T-4 PDI manifold from Zstroken, Fass 200 and a Custom Dual Disc coming from MCS also. So it should run pretty good and I hope it will be a competitive set-up for the 2.6 class.
 
One surface is all that is needed. Schieds and Haisley have messed around with cutting half the groove in the block and half in the head which sounds good in theory, but finding a machine shop that can cut two grooves exact depths and make the line up, you wont find this everywhere. I know a guy that had his done by Schieds and it works fine though. Tim
 
ILLINOISRAM said:
One surface is all that is needed. Schieds and Haisley have messed around with cutting half the groove in the block and half in the head which sounds good in theory, but finding a machine shop that can cut two grooves exact depths and make the line up, you wont find this everywhere. I know a guy that had his done by Schieds and it works fine though. Tim
Click to expand...

That is correct, you can either have them in just the head, just the block(why though) or both. Ideally and theoretically splitting the difference between the two should hold the most pressure, as long as both rings are cut exact. I was asked before it was done, which I prefered... I went with this way obviously...
 
So did you go with 9/16 studs, or keep it 12mm?

I just finished up doing one in 14mm on a 12 valve. The 9/16 is not an option on a 12 valve.
 
JFlagg said:
That is correct, you can either have them in just the head, just the block(why though) or both. Ideally and theoretically splitting the difference between the two should hold the most pressure, as long as both rings are cut exact. I was asked before it was done, which I prefered... I went with this way obviously...
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Most I have talked to said only do one, the rapid heat change the head likes to shift, and you will roll the ring.
 
SmokinCummins said:
So did you go with 9/16 studs, or keep it 12mm?

I just finished up doing one in 14mm on a 12 valve. The 9/16 is not an option on a 12 valve.
Click to expand...

I stayed with the 12mm studs, after all the money I've put into this I couldn't swing $1000 for some nuts and bolts :bang
 
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