99 FL60 mutt/conversion/repower project build

Maybe...maybe even more.


You get the fuel in the cylinder earlier and it might tone that charger down too. Mechanical engines are funny....

Chris

505ci @1700rpm doesnt change though... Maybe it will cut cruising boost in half from 15-20 to 5-10


Not enough time in a day......
 
505ci @1700rpm doesnt change though... Maybe it will cut cruising boost in half from 15-20 to 5-10


Not enough time in a day......


Heat will change. Heat turns turbos, not cubes.


Everything plays into it, I don't know how much it will change, but it will. Only one way to find out.

Chris
 
Ok...


Notes for later... Tracked down OEM turbo for a 430 HP marine 8.3
3802886 cummins #
H2d holset
Turbine Ind. 86. mm, Exd. 77. mm, 11 Blades
Compressor Ind. 64. mm, Exd. 94. mm, 7+7 Blades
Compared to s362/68
62/84
76/68
 
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I mentioned way back in your thread it made sense to go with a s464/83/1.00 and every one who knew what they were talking about shot it down. With those cubic inches and the amount of airflow, it even that seems small.
 
I mentioned way back in your thread it made sense to go with a s464/83/1.00 and every one who knew what they were talking about shot it down. With those cubic inches and the amount of airflow, it even that seems small.

You're not the only person to have mentioned similar sized s400..

Having pulled off a 58mm charger I was rather skeptical as well as others in jumping to a 400 frame..

My reasoning was it's easier to pull fuel than add RPM to spin said charger
 
Wore the rear pads off and caught a rotor :doh:
Both wore evenly

As with the theme of the truck.. mis-matched rear calipers in piston size....
Since rotors are inboard..... I put some cheap pads on,
got new rotors calipers pads, wheel seals coming.. swap everything when I get back from KS..
Front pads are 80% of new,
pads/rotors are same F/R

There's two caliper size (F) 2.6" and rear are either 2.6" or 2.8" if I can I'll put 2.8 all around..
 
well the 2.88" piston is too wide designed for a rotor/pad that's ~1" wider
ordered the 2.6 version which are more $$ than the 2.88......

got a 3.5" 6pt socket.

pull the damaged side off.. check everything over... clean the stuff, go to install new wheel seal... doesn't work... its .100" bigger than what I pull out... napa has what I need of course I find out 15 minute prior to them closing its.. 25 minute ride in :bang

put new rotor/pads on, reuse old seal, load tomorrow at 0700 come home swap new wheel seal and do the non damage side as well....

did try and see if I could get some stemco pro torque nuts.... but rs15-120 isn't covered....
 
well the 2.88" piston is too wide designed for a rotor/pad that's ~1" wider

ordered the 2.6 version which are more $$ than the 2.88......



got a 3.5" 6pt socket.



pull the damaged side off.. check everything over... clean the stuff, go to install new wheel seal... doesn't work... its .100" bigger than what I pull out... napa has what I need of course I find out 15 minute prior to them closing its.. 25 minute ride in :bang



put new rotor/pads on, reuse old seal, load tomorrow at 0700 come home swap new wheel seal and do the non damage side as well....



did try and see if I could get some stemco pro torque nuts.... but rs15-120 isn't covered....



THIS is why I say hydraulic brakes on anything larger than a pickup is a horrible idea. Parts are rare, expensive and they’re high maintenance. Same with axles, get what everyone is running and stay far far away from the odd ball stuff.
 
THIS is why I say hydraulic brakes on anything larger than a pickup is a horrible idea. Parts are rare, expensive and they’re high maintenance. Same with axles, get what everyone is running and stay far far away from the odd ball stuff.
generally I agree

rotors and pads are easy and cheap.. 97.00 each rotor, 80/160 cheap/top end for pads... on par for what I was paying for fleet grade rotors and pads for my dually.. will I get the same mileage out of the FL60 stuff? IDK ~13" rotor to a ~15" rotor with bigger vents and pads time will tell...

wrong seal number? could have been human error entering info in to the system... IDK.. they had the seals I pulled out in stock I was just out of time...

napa stocked rotors/pads wheel seals 2 of each.
pads/rotors are identical front and rear, seams the calipers are too but haven't got right size on hand yet...

its more of figuring out what I have and getting everything right still
 
Woohoo get to pull the transmission when I get home.... Seams general consensus is the adjustment ring pulled through the diaphragm on the clutch... Good news I have 100% clutch engagement... Bad news I have 100% clutch engagement all the time..
Valair is sending me a new clutch.. sounds like I missed shipping cutoff for today so most likely goes out Monday..

Hopefully it's just a fluke...
 
That makes for some fun driving. I can’t imagine pulling a trailer like that.

I got the load kicked off before it happened...

I have 13:1 low gear... RTLO 16913, 3.31 diff, 255/70/22.5 tires
I idle about 1-1.5mph in low gear
Waiting for traffic to clear them running home

Not exactly fun though
18422089_10211786613434365_7183287813955778976_o.jpg
 
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Had ~450 miles Jake...
Finally found my exhaust leak.. it will leak when either really cold or pulling long grades...
28235393_10214285243178547_6073546153966366393_o.jpg

New stoppers on the front..
28238057_10214285244018568_1152070938085528081_o.jpg

28337862_10214285244418578_3412822615084218917_o.jpg
 
Don’t know about these but the Cat heads floating around eBay and most cheap parts places are all chinese and are crap. From cracks in the fuel galley’s to bad valve guides. Buyer beware, you get what you pay for.

Seen couple pictures with made in Brazil stamps...

Frieghtliner couldn't give me a price, told me to call cummins in Hillard and gave me couple part numbers...

I don know what they're supposed to cost in the first place
 
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