99 FL60 mutt/conversion/repower project build

Big Boy Toys said:
Looking good buddy, getting closer for sure! :Cheer:
Click to expand...

Lift pump is ordered.... Fuelab 41402

I think I'm going to swap the engine/chassis harness from the donor truck over the the FL60.. as I don't have to worry about unknown molested harness

Still not.much of an idea on what to do with the dash...
 
malibu795 said:
Lift pump is ordered.... Fuelab 41402

I think I'm going to swap the engine/chassis harness from the donor truck over the the FL60.. as I don't have to worry about unknown molested harness

Still not.much of an idea on what to do with the dash...
Click to expand...

Well, it's a Freightliner....Rip the whole damn thing out before it falls out, and build your own. Rattling POS.


The only thing good about that dash is that it has mechanical gauges. Check your HVAC controls and make sure they all work, because the ones in our FL80 are garbage and we have vice grips to pull the cables because the plastic controls are all broken...not paying Freightliner for new parts that are just as trash.

Chris
 
Since the LMM decided to retire itself early....
All in on the mutt
Engine/trans in bolted down, driveshaft measure 74.5" 1710 half round
Finishing up rear brake lines..
Get steel for GN ball mount
Fuel lines and filters lift pump
Electrical for rear of the truck and trailer plug
Make sure brake calipers are free to slide
Air solenoid for fan clutch
Already got new shocks
Major coolant hoses
Fix couple air leaks
Inside
Dash
Heater fan
back lighting
Make sure all electrical accessories work,


22791974_10213260709525846_3686752930663591667_o.jpg
 
Last edited:
1"x12"x38"
Side is 7"x24"x.25"
Think I'll double the side plate to 0.50"
Side plates will get cut and the 1" plate will slide through welded all around... 2"*2" square tube up front will be on top welded to 1" and side plates.
Might be able to sneak so. 2" tube under Neath at the back.. track bar is in the way of putting both under Neath
Then bolted to the frame
22829235_10213271911085878_4677107247490397936_o.jpg
 
Dump the tubing and just go flat plate, 1/2" or 3/4" thick x 2" deep underneath...might be easier to fit and the flat bar turned on edge is definitely stouter than that tube.

That's how all of our hitches have been done since we bent one about 10 years ago...no problems since with bigger trailers and more weight.

Chris
 
Tube is 2*2*.250 wall..
It's still in mockup.. the one on my LMM is 6" by 3/4" with 1/2" thick Vertical plate.. on a 48" wide rails.. it's bent a little.
 
Rough mockup of the GN hitch.. just enough room to run 2*2*1/4 tubing underneath when aired out.. got driveshaft installed as well..
22861600_10213300085510221_6927406571213759248_o.jpg

22859687_10213300085910231_2552489562636943179_o.jpg
 
Thanks member on here works at MH EBY.. cut the holes for me.. there's a company called metal Supermarket..
Metal Supermarkets | Steel, Aluminum, Stainless, Hot-Rolled, Cold-Rolled, Alloy, Carbon, Galvanized, Brass, Bronze, Copper
pretty much get anything up to 1" thick cut to any length
It's not as cheap per linear measurements.. but there's no minimum either same day or next day..
The 12"*38"*1" plate and 2 8*24"*0.500 plate was $190.00 cut and carried to my truck, ~190.00 to EBY for ball and palsma cutter work.. $40.00 in hardware probably another $50.00 for D rings I'm still under $500.00 and substantually stronger than 95% of the stuff on the market
 
Well ****. looks like I need a 1.5" thick spacer... And going to have to relocate my relocated oil fill tube when it comes time to put AC on.. everything needs replaced probably look as swapping to an axial piston pump much like what's common now
23331348_10213364665164672_6655250478168225250_o.jpg
 
Last edited:
How many bolt fan hub?

I might have a set of brackets for the Sanden compressor...I have an ISC from a bus that has dual compressors on it, I think one is high mount.

Chris
 
Signature600 said:
How many bolt fan hub?

I might have a set of brackets for the Sanden compressor...I have an ISC from a bus that has dual compressors on it, I think one is high mount.

Chris
Click to expand...

6 bolt on 6" BC and the inside hub centric is 5"

I was looking at a stuff to swap a sanden 709 in last night.. I'm sure both the 508/709 are better than the York I have
 
Just looked, I thought my engines had fans...one does, crankshaft mounted. The other they kept. Sorry, I have nothing. A/C brackets are some odd ball crap that mounts on the front of the head.

Chris
 
jfaulkner said:
The York is a way more reliable compressor.
Click to expand...

It is? Seams all the OEMs for last 10-15 years went sanden...even longer for passenger cars/trucks.. I think packaging played a part, how much??? IDK

Granted York has less moving part than a 508/709 sanden. We have several semis that get a york compressor every 2 years or so.. the sanden on my LMM has 478k on it..

Basically everything needs replaced AC related.. condenser has 6-8 yellow die makes on the Engine side.

I guessing that spring is supposed to move and soften throttle imput, correct? It's currently solid
23406095_10213374493810382_6720696577710863953_o.jpg
 
Got all the major electrical stuff ran hooked up,
Various connectors replaced,
Upped battery cables from 2/0 to 3/0
Battery jumpers are 2/0
Lift pump is plumbed, need to wire relay in and fuse..
Pump is a Fuelab 41402, with Tork Tek adjustable does 60psi with Engine off.. see how it does when running,
Engine does 40psi oil while cranking, FSS does hold with key one forgot to check if it pulls while cranking

Need to install PS tank, exhaust, rear electrical, fab hot side CAC pipe, run coolant hoses, weld GN plate, bleed brakes install Driveshaft, make gauge cluster, speed/tach are Isspro R14000 series, Isspro fuel guage sending units..
Got a 12g sheet of 8*13" that I'm going to have guages mounted in.. easily get 9 in there with turns/high beam and couple warning lights..
JEGS Performance Products 11063: 5/16 LED Indicator Green | JEGS
got the PW/PM/HM curcits off the FL60 harness to lay on to the fl70 harness (swap out harness.. to hacked up and I'm not familiar enough with it), wire up the elctro-hydro boost.. hood, AFC live installed
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top