99 FL60 mutt/conversion/repower project build

Every truck I’ve had with a York have lasted 10 times longer. Have had at least 3 Sanden compressors leak right out of the box. Several more lock up within a year. I’ve still got a 2002 with the original York and I bet I put at least one sanden on a year on my 2006.

I guess what I’m saying is if it came with the York I would leave it. Swapping it for a Sanden is like the guy putting the DT466 in, replacing a good part with a turd.
 
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The only problem I've ever seen with a York is that they break whatever they are mounted to. Brackets, cylinder heads. The compressors themselves are usually fine.

I've had the same experience with new sandens. Most of the time the package looks like they have been dropped when they have an early hour failure. We do change them all the time on all makes. Of seven trucks under warranty, I think we exchanged 3 before the units hit 150k.

It is one sided though, we never see Yorks any longer. If I'm thinking correctly, the sandens are quite a bit more efficient.

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Fl60 mutt first start - YouTube
41402 lift pump installed wired in reduced power roughly 25-30% less than full out put.. does 60psi at idle with a Tork Tex adjustable hp35 which is set at 45 according to the paperwork..gues that means little with the lift pump moves more than the over flow valve can.
 
Awesome, burnouts next?! I'd say you'll have officially won the 8.3 swap battle with Jory in a week or less. Pretty sure he started his too at some point, so firstone driving wins!

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So thinking the lift pump, flows more than the OVF035 can handle, even in reduced speed, which is 25% less,
I have the adjustment screw 1.5 turns from being completely out and still does 45-50psi at idle.


Idk if that is going to cause an issue or not...
 
Don't know why it would. Lots of guys run that pressure thinking it is necessary.

Only way I can think to lower it would be to dump the OFV for a regulator.
Chris
 
These guys showed up.. originally I want a 160mph Speedo which would put 70mph at the 11:30 position and Isspro has yet to make a 160mph version, be like a 4 week lead time...so settle for a 120mph..
someone upgraded the speedo to a sealed face for me. no biggie called Isspro, settled for them sending a remote botton for the speedo.. quick easiest fix IMO

Idea was to have speed and tach avg position around the 12:00 o'clock position.. I can live with them at 1:00 o'clock area..
R14000 series
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Snedge said:
OCD much?
Click to expand...

More ease of quick pickup visually....and less likely to be blocked by the steering wheel..
An old Navy habit of having operating values at 1/2 the value of the gauges being used
OCD they'd be sending either new tach or new speedo
 
Looking at places to mount a temp switch for the fan control..
Have block under the heater supply, behind the belt tensioner, and bleed from cylinder head to coolant filter which goes back to expansion tank..
Idk where coolant goes after it passes through the filter.. looks like it dumps post tstats vs pre tstats..
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Edit filtered coolant dumps pre tstats
 
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For fan control, I would put the temp switch in the water pump pickup/ lower radiator hose. You want to fan to come on when the radiator gets hot, not when the engine over heats


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Jesse M. said:
For fan control, I would put the temp switch in the water pump pickup/ lower radiator hose. You want to fan to come on when the radiator gets hot, not when the engine over heats


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Click to expand...

Are you sure you worded that right?!?

9/10...one wants the temp and related switched at the hottest part of the engine

If the inlet to the water pump is 190°.. case of beer and a large steak says water temp going passed the TStats is substantually above 200°.. which BTW is what the OEM idiot Engine is over heating warning light is set at.
Even if the radiator only pulls 20° out of the coolant.

OEM tstats are 181° both of them..
 
What temp is your switch? I think by putting it in the block or head, your fan is going to cycle constantly.


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Jesse M. said:
What temp is your switch? I think by putting it in the block or head, your fan is going to cycle constantly.


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Click to expand...

Got a couple,
On/off
190/180
190/175
180/165

Cycle constantly? Maybe on hot days, at idle, which it most likely be switched on manually for AC efficiency..
190/175 is what I'm thinking of going with
 
I went with a switch that comes on at 175, in the water pump inlet. My thermostat opens at 190, and my fan comes on consistently at 195 measured at the head/thermostat housing. It can sit and idle in 100+ heat, fan kicks on, temp drops to about 180-185 before the thermostat closes all the way


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There are also pressure switches you can tee into the high side of your refrigerant lines that will kick the fan on for AC purposes.


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Yes there is in reference to AC system, I'm not even to that yet.. everything except maybe the EVAP needs replaced related to AC system..
 
Heater core supply relocated, think I'll pull the radiator and CAC off drill tap the head from 1/8" to 1/4" NPT bigger stuff will handle vibrations better
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