Rebuilding a 96' 12 valve. The owner wants zero leaks

I just rebuilt my 12valve and so far zero leaks. I used a mahle kit and all the gaskets were included and good quality. The only gaskets that were wrong were the injectors copper washers. They were way to big. On all the gaskets I used permatex to glue the gasket down. I think this is especially helpful on the areas like the timing cover gasket and oil pan , where just the plain gasket will want to walk around.
 
SCHMITTY said:
He's putting the motor in a 54' power wagon. He wants it extra clean. I'm sure if it drips from the breather hose a little he can throw a catch can on...
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So, avoid the problem altogether, vent it to the exhaust pipe.

Weld a tee into the exhaust, at an angle to the pipe, to route the CC vent tube to. Done right, the exhaust flow creates a vacuum to pull the oil into the exhaust and the heat from the exhaust burns the oil residue, a win win.
It works much the way some sandblasters do, air pressure streaming past a hole creates a vacuum, which in turn pulls sand into the air stream.

No leaks on the floor and, as I mentioned, the heat from the exhaust takes care of the evidence.

People do this in a lot of drag race applications, where oiling the track can be a big deal.

Mark.
 
Mark Nixon said:
So, avoid the problem altogether, vent it to the exhaust pipe.

Weld a tee into the exhaust, at an angle to the pipe, to route the CC vent tube to. Done right, the exhaust flow creates a vacuum to pull the oil into the exhaust and the heat from the exhaust burns the oil residue, a win win.
It works much the way some sandblasters do, air pressure streaming past a hole creates a vacuum, which in turn pulls sand into the air stream.

No leaks on the floor and, as I mentioned, the heat from the exhaust takes care of the evidence.

People do this in a lot of drag race applications, where oiling the track can be a big deal.

Mark.
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Venturi is the name of what you are describing if he wants to google ...
 
I was thinking about running it to the exhaust on my own truck instead of a catch can. It mentioned it to the owner also. Thanks
 
Venting through the exhaust works pretty good on open exhaust engines running high rpm's.
Not so well at low rpm's or with mufflers.
 
No need to buy such parts, ugly as hell. Connect a radiator hose to your oil fill cap tube and run that to a catch canister without diminishing the hose diameter at any point, thus keeping the crankcase fume travel velocity down. The hose needs to point directly up from the oil fill and preferably routed at the same height level as the valve covers and then plunging down to the can. Done this many times, always works.
 
No, running it next to the actual upper radiator hose towards inner fender. It only needs to go up and then go down. Who said anything about any full lengths? This is basic physics, nothing more.
 
Do you think that these toilet seat -looking valve cover thingys look better? Think not.

Like you said, to each his own. My customers have not complaind, on the contrary. And I'm not even trying to sell anything here.
 
Destroked 450 said:
Venting through the exhaust works pretty good on open exhaust engines running high rpm's.
Not so well at low rpm's or with mufflers.
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I put a venturi on mine, angle cut, welded at the right angle, even had the little flute moroso puts on the end of theirs. On a muffler system, it will only produce vacuum over 2500 rpm. I put a cap on it and never plumbed it to the engine.

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
 
JariV said:
No need to buy such parts, ugly as hell. Connect a radiator hose to your oil fill cap tube and run that to a catch canister without diminishing the hose diameter at any point, thus keeping the crankcase fume travel velocity down. The hose needs to point directly up from the oil fill and preferably routed at the same height level as the valve covers and then plunging down to the can. Done this many times, always works.
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A couple of questions.
1: How do you put oil in? Do you have to remove the hose from the oil fill each time you need oil, that would be a pain.
2: Whats the can for? If it's to catch oil you haven't fixed anything.

Personally I think these improve the looks of a 12v.
Very few drips from the old worn out engine, zero drips from this new engine so far.
Not shown is the hose that routes over the side down to just below the oil pan rail

DSC00502.jpg
 
Destroked_450, Love your "toilet seats"!
Great looking set up AND no radiator hoses or catch cans!

Mark.
 
Destroked 450 said:
A couple of questions.
1: How do you put oil in? Do you have to remove the hose from the oil fill each time you need oil, that would be a pain.
2: Whats the can for? If it's to catch oil you haven't fixed anything.
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1. Well you need to remove the oil filler cap to pour oil in, so why is it such a pain to remove a hose that would not even need to be secured tight?

2. Yes, the can is for the escaped oil if it came through. I've got a customer vehicle that has 400k miles and has lots of blow-by. He has not catched anything in the can during first two years of heavy everyday work truck use.

Your last sentence quoted here doesn't make any sense. In the first place, if your engine has so much crankcase pressure that you need to start to make this kind of improvements to the engine then to me it is just dodging the facts that the engine needs a rebuild. When a 12V is in good shape and form, it does not need any of this crap unless it's a race engine.

This ugly gizmo here and the way I've done it are just two different ways of prolonging a life of a tired engine, attacking the same basic problem. Another question, why is it better to burn this escaped engine oil than catching it?
 
JariV said:
1. Well you need to remove the oil filler cap to pour oil in, so why is it such a pain to remove a hose that would not even need to be secured tight?

2. Yes, the can is for the escaped oil if it came through. I've got a customer vehicle that has 400k miles and has lots of blow-by. He has not catched anything in the can during first two years of heavy everyday work truck use.

Your last sentence quoted here doesn't make any sense. In the first place, if your engine has so much crankcase pressure that you need to start to make this kind of improvements to the engine then to me it is just dodging the facts that the engine needs a rebuild. When a 12V is in good shape and form, it does not need any of this crap unless it's a race engine.

This ugly gizmo here and the way I've done it are just two different ways of prolonging a life of a tired engine, attacking the same basic problem. Another question, why is it better to burn this escaped engine oil than catching it?
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1 I don't normally install a radiator style hose that fits loosely over the pipe so when I put a hose on it doesn't just slid back off, but I now understand what your doing although it won't work on my truck. During the conversion to simplify the top rad hose install we eliminated the front fill.

2 You simply stated installing a hose and catch can without saying how well the hose worked at keeping oil out of the catch can.

3 Talk about not making since, Rather than installing my vented valve covers and plugging the factory vent I should have rebuilt my old engine but it's ok for you to install a hose vent and catch can on a customers 400k mile engine with lots of blowby.
My old engine did not have lots of blowby but it was loosing some oil out the factory vent tube (something nearly every 12v owner complains about). I installed the vented vc's to see if it would slow down the oil lose. The vc's took care of the oil lose out the vent but didn't effect the nearly 400 mile per qrt of oil consumption, when the head gasket started leaking I decided rather than patch it I'd do a full rebuild.

Lastly, I never called your setup ugly, I only questioned removing the hose to add oil and the reason for the catch can.
You called my setup ugly as hell (your opinion).
Also who's burning escaped oil?
The baffling in the vented covers does a excellent job of separating the oil from the vented gases returning it to the oil pan where it's needed.

Don't let the photo of the pretty engine fool you, this Cummins powered Ford earns it's keep.

DSC00522.jpg

^ 25k lbs gross^

DSC00524.jpg

^31k lbs gross^

IMG_0259.jpg

^Work truck engine^

Now I don't think you can argue that this beats the h--- out of a 6.0
 
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