Does the turbo oil drain have to face down ?

M

me2

New member
I'm swapping a Cummins 6.7 with an HE351VE into a truck and I have space issues. The VGT actuator interferes with the HVAC box.

The engine will fit no problem if I clock the center assembly down on the turbo. This will put the VGT actuator under the turbo instead of sticking out the side. However, if I do this the oil drain will move from the bottom to the side.

Is it OK to run a turbo with the oil drain going out the side versus going out the bottom ?

Thanks
 
Yes you can you would need a run a very good evacuation pump to do it. Without a pump it will not last long. 90* would still be pushing its limits though.
 
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Runninlean said:
Yes you can you would need a run a very good evacuation pump to do it. Without a pump it will not last long. 90* would still be pushing its limits though.
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Look at where the oil drain port is located in relation to the turbine shaft centerline. If the drain is located on the side the oil will lay against the shaft seals before it runs out the drain hole which is what causes shaft seals to leak. As stated before, the drain must be position close to straight down.
 
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f6jbob said:
Can't you put a 2nd gen style exhaust manifold on it?
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The turbo inlet pattern is different and if I move the turbo ahead I don't have room for twins. I like the turbo where it is, that stupid actuator is just in the way.

I'll take a few more measurements and see how bad it is.
 
Quoting someone else's quote.
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Information taken direct from the Holset service manual for the HX35/40:

Oil return pipes are permitted to decline at an overall angle of not less than 30 degrees below horizontal. All turbocharger applications require a pipe of internal diameter greater than 19 mm which has integrated connectors. To ensure oil drains into the engine under all operating conditions, the return connection into the engine sump must not be submerged and the outlet flange of the turbocharger must be 50 mm above the maximum oil level of the engine sump pan.
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Other than the exhaust brake function the stock variable turbo is really a pos. Being you are considering twins, I would suggest you ditch it and tune the motor to run a conventional charger.
 
Low RPM boost with a standard charger is a simple fix. Unlike other years/brands we have EFI-Live!

Bottom line...variable chargers suck. They stick from carbon, the electronic actuators fail and the plastic (yes I said PLASTIC) gears fail.
 
what about the switchblade turbo setup?
Or if you have deep pockets, a supercharger compounded with a turbo?
 
Low RPM boost with a standard charger is a simple fix.
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Show me a pressure ratio of 4 at a flow rate of 40 lbs per minute and I'm all ears.

Here is the calculator set up for my engine.

My Data

I want 1200 ftlbs at 1600 RPM. The calculator will show you the PR at various flow rates to achieve that.

Not even an HE451 will do that and it has one of the best towing maps around.

This turbo stuff is all in my thread.
 
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I just had a PM discussion with Big Swole on CF.

He said his engine broke the crank. He figures it was making 900 HP at the wheels when it broke. My engine will make 600 -20% loss = 480 HP at the wheels. About half of what he was making.

His mod list was extensive, including dual CP3s. I'm running a stock fuel system.

He used polished and peened 24V rods. I will be running stock 24V rods.

Many people on CF and CD didn't think I needed to change the rods. I'm doing it anyway.
 
That is a ton of torque at low rpm, it won't do it unless its drug down to it, even then. That is a lot of cylinder pressure with no engine speed. That spells bent and broken
 
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