Truckers, lets see your rigs!

The induction heater is magical. I'm not pleased with how it did in this particular instance, but it does its job well. I was able to remove all 4 studs in the forward manifold section after heating them and letting them cool. I had even broken one of them, leaving about 1" protruding, and turned it out.

The previous mechanic killed atleast 6 other bolt holes, they have all been poorly threadserted.

Those were photos of different cylinders. #3 still has tap fragments from the failed extraction attempt. I will cut it out with a carbide bit tomorrow and repair it with a gardsert.

I'm up in the air about the #3 port. They drilled well out of the thread bore at a 15-20 degree down angle. I can't repair it %100 without filler of some kind.

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That induction heater is pretty slick. Never knew about them until now.

I’ve had good luck in the past with heating the metal around a bolt with the torch. Then take a can of keyboard cleaner, turn it upside down and spray the bolt. That cleaner is almost like liquid nitrogen when used improperly. The bolt shrinks while the surrounding metal stays hot from the heated mass. Put your vice grips on and start working it loose.

I’ve also found 3-36 to be the best penetrant and general lubricator to have around. We have a can in every truck and on each tractor. As opposed to WD-40.
 
I like PB blaster, but it doesn't wick very well.

You are absolutely right about quenching. The CO2 cleaner is a good idea. The only issue I would worry about is cracking the studs because of the quench

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We literally threw our induction heater in the garbage. We had it replaced 2 times. It took an eternity to use. Had a guy interested in purchasing it. Went to show him that it worked, it didnt.

We really really like Kimball Midwest penetrating oil. Their CB+ is the best but it is honestly a bit too dangerous. It will strip paint instantly and is pretty hard on cuts and eyes. Their regular CB is still dammmmmnnnn good. Our favorite way is to heat the stud and not the nut. It sounds crazy but it works like a dream. We remove 50+ crusty rusty studs and bolts daily. Heat the bolt or the stud until red and keep the flame away to keep it red for a bit without melting it. Let it cool completely down and 9/10 times we barely have to put any effort in to loosen it. If they are severely stuck we get it all red hot and shove parafin wax into the joint.
 
Theres a guy on YouTube called projectfarm, he tests all kinds of things. A while back he did some tests on penetrating oil and I was really surprised how well wd-40 did. I've been a pb blaster guy for a long time but wd beat it almost every time. AvE did an episode on penetrants and had similar results.

Which Penetrating Oil is Best? Lets find out! - YouTube

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This is perfect timing. Just ordered the studs and hardware for our bxs. Have exhaust tick and found one stud is broke. Not exactly looking forward to that job.
 
chevota84 said:
Theres a guy on YouTube called projectfarm, he tests all kinds of things. A while back he did some tests on penetrating oil and I was really surprised how well wd-40 did. I've been a pb blaster guy for a long time but wd beat it almost every time. AvE did an episode on penetrants and had similar results.

Which Penetrating Oil is Best? Lets find out! - YouTube

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Interesting video, always been a fan of kroil. Although if something is frozen solid, usually heat and a quick dab of bees wax does it for me.

Would've rather had the test done with Seafoam deep creep, not Royal Purple. I've never heard of anyone using that stuff.
 
JWhite said:
Interesting video, always been a fan of kroil. Although if something is frozen solid, usually heat and a quick dab of bees wax does it for me.

Would've rather had the test done with Seafoam deep creep, not Royal Purple. I've never heard of anyone using that stuff.
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I think he used deep creep in the 2nd video and iirc it worked really well.

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