2009 2.6 Street Diesel rules 2.6

Sledpuller said:
Oh my, you tied the record,all full pulls?

Kerosene heater in that icebox.
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Yup, two of 'em on the same night, within a foot of each other.

NADM better never have meetings like that. Can't feel your toes and you can see your breath, and you start thinking to yourself, "WTF am I doing here?" And then you look around the room and go "WTF are we all doing here? This is a picture of insanity at some level."

Now, as for hitches, since I already have a 3.5" circular bore, going out to 3.75" should not be any problem whatsoever.
 
kyle03d said:
Care to explain why you suggest a 3.75" wide hook point? Or was that just you trying to sound smart and authoritative?
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:doh: It is obvious that maybe you need to see beyond your own hitch point, *bdh*and as your fellow pullers HAVE CLEARLY STATED things are getting bigger and heavier :bang:bang and these sleds are not just for pulls involving pick ups............As for smart and authoritative..........I dont waste my time with childish behavior, but I WILL maintain the standards(READ RULES) set forth by the organization I proudly represent.

Regards

Eric
 
DISTURBED said:
Its pretty simple in most cases the hooks are now thicker and heavier, if you tighten the chain on hitch with a 3" hole it will not let the chain and the hook straighten completly out thus shortening the distance between the truck and sled. It also makes it easier to hook and unhook the chain, we ran into a instance where the hook got stuck in the hitch with 3" hole and had to be beat unhooked with a hot temper mental truck hooked to it not fun.
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um no.
thats the 3 3/4 long part is for.

I already know perfectly well a 3 X 3.75 hitch will work everywhere just fine, it just bothered me the new tech guy felt the need to "recommend" 3.75 wide for no reason at all.
 
NavyChief said:
:doh: It is obvious that maybe you need to see beyond your own hitch point, *bdh*and as your fellow pullers HAVE CLEARLY STATED things are getting bigger and heavier :bang:bang and these sleds are not just for pulls involving pick ups............

Regards

Eric
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Just what I thought, "CLEARLY" no reason.

10,000HP Unlimited Mods use a 3X3.75.
 
welcome ENC glad to have you.


now i got to make that hitch 3" right? :poke::hehe:
 
Hey Adam, it is a real pleasure to be on board and I look forward to working with you all for many years.

Best Regards

Eric
 
Nothing like putting yourself on the bad side of the guy that decides if your get to pull or not. You can just waive my truck on through Eric. Im just there to help make the lineup look longer. My truck is harmless. I look forward to meeting you. Best of luck to ya with these guys!
 
2Tone12V said:
Nothing like putting yourself on the bad side of the guy that decides if your get to pull or not. You can just waive my truck on through Eric. Im just there to help make the lineup look longer. My truck is harmless. I look forward to meeting you. Best of luck to ya with these guys!
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Got the knee pad out again and you harmless:hehe:
Now us old guy's are harmless:Cheer:
Dale
 
3.75 round covers all hooks.

After the whining and complaining at London, Ohio last year, about the hook was too big for their Walmart hitches, we wanted it taken care of.

Bottom line, you can show up with any size hitch hole, if the hook doesn't fit, thanks for the donation.
 
Suspension, Rear: The rear suspension may be bolted solid to eliminate travel. All rear suspensions must use at least one working shock absorber per wheel.

so why not just say make the suspension solid for the rear??
 
So you guys still planning on coming to Missouri next year? My hitch is plenty big enough but on the rare occasion it the hook does get stuck inside there since it's not a smooth serface. Gonna smooth it out a bit for next year so it doesn't happen anymore. When it did happen I usually just backed up into the sled and it knocked it loose. Are the twisted clevices alot of people use 3.75?
 
CTD03 said:
what that mean anything is streetable one things streetable is a nother mans decision
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Here at NADM, we are very fortunate that we don't have to worry what 50 men think are streetable-NavyChief does that for us.

Come June, I'll have been involved with Diesel truck sled pulling for 10 years.
Most of you have more than a couple years under your belts. In other words, we alll know whats right or wrong.

The grace period is over.

If you have been cutting corners on safety, or pushing the gray area in suspension or performance, you may as well fix it this winter, when you have time.
 
Kman9090 said:
So you guys still planning on coming to Missouri next year? My hitch is plenty big enough but on the rare occasion it the hook does get stuck inside there since it's not a smooth serface. Gonna smooth it out a bit for next year so it doesn't happen anymore. When it did happen I usually just backed up into the sled and it knocked it loose. Are the twisted clevices alot of people use 3.75?
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We'll be in Missouri in some form or another. Everybody uses the same sleds, hooks, tapering your sharp edges off would help though, I think.

TWISTED CLEVIS!!?!!!?!!!

I'll let NavyChief address that, he does it so eloquently.
 
Sledpuller said:
Here at NADM, we are very fortunate that we don't have to worry what 50 men think are streetable-NavyChief does that for us.

Come June, I'll have been involved with Diesel truck sled pulling for 10 years.
Most of you have more than a couple years under your belts. In other words, we alll know whats right or wrong.

The grace period is over.

If you have been cutting corners on safety, or pushing the gray area in suspension or performance, you may as well fix it this winter, when you have time.
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thank you.
 
If I was you guys Gene, Id say no to twisted clevis's. Remember TS last year? Never seen a flag man move that fast! And it wasnt the first one ive seen break.......
 
DHRA provided a hook/hitch in the WS class at Texas. 2.6 and up have a suitable hitch or you don't hook. What is needed to save a twisted clevis is the grade 8 bolt with a nut on it, instead of the a hair pin.
 
CTD03 said:
Suspension, Rear: The rear suspension may be bolted solid to eliminate travel. All rear suspensions must use at least one working shock absorber per wheel.

so why not just say make the suspension solid for the rear??
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Because people would rip out all the factory stuff and weld it up like a RWYB-style truck, and this is not what they want. Keep your shocks on since they're street equipment, but you can bolt in blocks/stops to eliminate rear travel. Take 'em out to drive home.

Basically it's a gift to everyone, it will help a lot of people get rid of hopping.
 
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