05 Cummins suspension setup

Foxrider12390

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05 Cummins 2500 semi dedicated sled puller. I'm looking to tighten up the rear suspension. I run solid bump stops and traction bars right now. I was wondering if anyone has removed the rear shocks and put adjustable tractor end links in instead. That way I would be able to tighten them to set the frame/bump stop on to the axle and keep my drive line angle where I want it. The end links would also help to keep the axle from twisting/rolling while pulling. Any input.
 
Depending on your rules you may have to run shocks, you could also clamp your springs to pre load them a bit. Post your rules and im sure others will chime in
 
Whats everyone using for clamps? 2 pieces of flat stock with a couple bolts through it?

Driver Eligibility: 1. General rules apply. 2. Minimum 16 yr old licensed driver. Safety: 1. OEM seatbelt or better must be worn. 2. DOT approved helmet with chin strap fastened. 3. No passengers, track or pit area. 4. Fire extinguisher MANDATORY. 5. Fuel and/or air shut off MANDATORY. All fuel and/or air shut offs must be mounted independently of draw bar. Cable end must have a loop to attach to sled cable, and must be located in the rear center of truck. Minimum of 14” above hitch and a maximum of 6” off center in either direction. Chassis: 1. Engine and driveline must come factory in a one ton or less pick up. 2. Engine in OEM location for the body used. 3. No Wheel tubs, back half conversions or tube/homemade chassis. 4. OEM floor pan and firewall is MANDATORY. 5. Factory wheel base must be maintained. 6. Trucks must have four wheel working brakes. Engines/Drive Line: 1. Limited to a stock-appearing, OEM make-specific compression ignition engine. 2. Electronic modules, tuners and programmers allowed. 3. After market air induction systems allowed. 4. Exhaust must exit upward. 5. Fuel must be pump#1/#2 diesel only. Soy/biodiesel allowed. 6. Nitrous oxide, propane, alcohol, nitro methane, methanol and all other oxygen carriers and flammables are PROHIBITED. 7. Water injection is PROHIBITED. 8. The vehicle is limited to a single turbocharger: the inducer bore on the compressor housing may be 2.6”. The inlet will be measured using a 2.65” plug or internal calipers. Bushing from any larger turbo size down to a 2.6” turbo is PROHIBITED. A stock map width enhancement (MWE) groove is allowed. No MWE groove will be allowed that has a width greater than ¼”. All provisions allowing air to the wheel other than via the bore and the MWE groove are prohibited. 6.4 liter Power stroke engines may utilize the factory twin-turbo configuration. 9. Drive shaft loops: MANDATORY SAFETY: All trucks MUST have 360 degree, 6” long u-joint shields covering; rear end yoke, rear output yoke, front output yoke and front end yoke. The front output yoke cover is not required if lack of room prevents installation. Shield thickness requirements: aluminum minimum of 3/8” and steel minimum 1/4”. Hitches: 1. Maximum of 26” height. Reese style hitch, minimum class 5 (2 ½” x 2 ½” receiver). Class 5 hitches installed to OEM specifications. Reinforcements recommended. 2. Hook point must be the furthest point back of the truck 3. No hooks to bumper or ball. No Clevis. 4. Hitch must have a 3 ½” hole Suspension: 1. Solid blocking, air bags, and timbrens allowed. 2. Traction bars, sway bars and limit straps allowed. 3. 4 wheel hydraulic brakes are MANDATORY. Tires: 1. Tires must be DOT approved. NO modifications allowed. i.e.: no cutting, grooving, etc. After market tires and wheels allowed. 2. No studs and no tire chains. 3. Duals allowed on 2WD and 4WD rear only. 4. All wheel studs and axle bolts/studs must be used and tight. Use of axle stud guards MANDATORY. Added Weight: 1. Weight in pick up box or on front bracket only. 2. Front weight bracket and weights not to exceed 60” forward of centerline of front axle. 3. No weight under hood or in cab. Weight Class: 8500 lbs with driver
 
Clamping your springs will help some. Also air bags help. Also if you put in stops between the frame and axle you can stop most of the hop


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The way you are talking is that will be one rough ride. My truck with the springs clamped rides like a bandwagon


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I already have solid bump stops and tractions bars...... I dont daily the truck. It goes on and off the trailer for the pulls. I guess I'm more interested in keeping the axle from rolling and twisting.
 
Then yes by all means I'd go the 3 point route herd of guys doing it and the only real issue they have is trying to keep the 3 point from coming lose but if you would put a lock nut on the 3 point that would work I think.


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how is everyone clamping their springs? do both the front and rear of the pack? i still have the factory clamps on there.
 
Mine are clamped with a piece of 1/2 flat stock and grade 8 blots and I tightened them down as as far as I could with an impact. You will notice a big difference in how stiff it will make the truck


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I already have solid bump stops and tractions bars...... I dont daily the truck. It goes on and off the trailer for the pulls. I guess I'm more interested in keeping the axle from rolling and twisting.

a handful of guys with solid stops, put in a 3rd link on the top of the diff to a crossmember
 
I've seen just one from the top of the differential up to the hitch, or very near it.
 
just one?

First truck I noticed it on years ago was Evan Davis' 2.6 truck, I believe Leiss and Wakeman also had one later that season. Few trucks around here have them, once solid rears were allowed guys who had them obviously ditched them when they transitioned to solid. As for the competitive 2.5 classes I'm unaware of what those guys are doing now, I've yet to attend a hook with heavy hitting 2.5 trucks. As they are not ppl, yet.
 
I've seen just one from the top of the differential up to the hitch, or very near it.

There are a ton of guys who have links from their hitches to their differentials, or axle tubes. Obviously where rules allow it. What I stated was a fix to the axle rolling, and having the pinion point at the sky, some guys ladder their bars having two rear mounting points, some have two bars mounting on opposite ends of the axle tubes much like a ladder setup. But I've seen a lot of 3links throughout the years on some pretty hard hooking competitive 2.6 trucks.
 
Your rules don't say you have to run a shock. So, I would run the 3rd links and use them to adjust the height of the rear of the truck so it went down the track with with the truck level or the front end down slightly.

I would also locate both of the links behind the axle. Don't keep one ahead of the axle and one behind the axle like the shocks are. The more you can angle them back from the axle toward the hitch, the more down force you'll get.
 
Your rules don't say you have to run a shock. So, I would run the 3rd links and use them to adjust the height of the rear of the truck so it went down the track with with the truck level or the front end down slightly.

I would also locate both of the links behind the axle. Don't keep one ahead of the axle and one behind the axle like the shocks are. The more you can angle them back from the axle toward the hitch, the more down force you'll get.

I was thinking the same on the 3rd links but would you mount them on top of the axle or behind like you stated running to the rear?
 
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