08 F450 6.7 Cummins/Allison swap

I was wondering what you guys think about this cam out of my 6.7?
 

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Nightmare90gt said:
So your saying you wouldn’t run this cam?
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It's spalling.

The tappets are concave and they are offset off the centerline of the lobe. This makes the tappet rotate as the tip of the lobe goes vertical under the tappet. The trade off is that it overloads the oil film at the shoulder of the lobe and causes them to spall out. That cam is on its way out. Mine was identical when I tore down the short block I bought.

You can reuse it as long as you are ok with what it is going to do and the labor involved to replace it. It does have a little life left in it.

Sent from my motorola one 5G using Tapatalk
 
biggy238 said:
It's spalling.

The tappets are concave and they are offset off the centerline of the lobe. This makes the tappet rotate as the tip of the lobe goes vertical under the tappet. The trade off is that it overloads the oil film at the shoulder of the lobe and causes them to spall out. That cam is on its way out. Mine was identical when I tore down the short block I bought.

You can reuse it as long as you are ok with what it is going to do and the labor involved to replace it. It does have a little life left in it.

Sent from my motorola one 5G using Tapatalk
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I will be replacing it looking at the Hamilton 178/208 with 103 springs and tappets.
 
Got the cam replace and degreed in. Been assembling the engine along with working on the front axle goal is to have the engine in by August but who knows what life holds.
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Has anyone been able to figure out how to get the exhaust brake to work? I am trying to use the ford switch and some of the wiring seems simple but here is what I have figured out. I can't figure out pins 2 and 6

Ford switch
Pin 2= Exhaust Brake Switch Signal or S/C Switch Return
Pin 3= illumination wire probably taken from the radio
Pin 4= Gound
Pin 6= Exhaust Brake Switch Signal or S/C Switch Return
The Exhaust Brake Lamp signal would probably need an LED light to show the exhaust brake is on but could probably be left out.
 

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Need more info about the dodge side, but I am thinking it will be disabled without an abs input. You could get lucky. You need to know if the input to the Cummins ecm is 12 or 5v
 
biggy238 said:
Need more info about the dodge side, but I am thinking it will be disabled without an abs input. You could get lucky. You need to know if the input to the Cummins ecm is 12 or 5v
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I have Alldata for the dodge any suggestion on what to look up because most of the stuff is connector views not a wiring diagram. My understanding is you have to wire in the brake switch from the cummins ecm to make it work. I am going off of billet performance's 6.4 Powerstroke to 6.7 wiring he mentions it but doesn't go into too much detail.
 
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Alldata has EXCELLENT wiring diagrams.

You have an awful lot of stuff working against you, Ford truck and control systems, Cummins engine with ECM, and an Allison tranny and TCM all have to work together. I wish you the best.
 
According to Destroked it can't be done without the BCM. I am looking into a controller by BD diesel that the 5.9 can use that uses the vgt turbo to control it. I dunno if it will pan out or not but we will see.
 
For the Exhaust Brake Lamp signal, you're right, an LED light would be handy to show when the exhaust brake is engaged. It's a nice-to-have for sure. It might be worth reaching out to a Ford dealership or an automotive electrician for some extra guidance if you're hitting a roadblock. Sometimes, those wiring diagrams can be a bit cryptic!
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Ford dealerships or automotive electricians are like the superheroes of the car world when it comes to decoding these things. And yeah, those wiring diagrams... they're like trying to decipher a secret code sometimes.
 
Can someone help me with this relay? It's called the Smart-Power relay but really can't tell which relay pin corresponds to the 1-5 on the diagram. This is how I think it's supposed to go but a little unsure.

pin 85-smart power relay return
pin 86-12v ignition
pin 30-constant 12v
pin 87-smart power relay feed
 

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Look at the gauge of the wires running into and out of the socket.

It should be pin 2 and 5 are the control circuit and 1 and 4 are the current handling circuit. The connector should have corresponding 16 gauge wires for the control and 12 or 10 gauge for the load/current handling. Also, usually the load terminal on that style relay it turned 90 degrees out of phase from its counterpart across the relay from it. 85 and 86 would be parallel to each other and 30 or 87 would be turned 90 degrees rather than parallel
 
Hit another snag. It turns out the Destroked engine mounts don't allow for a driver-side starter so have to go with Diesel Conversion Specialist mounts to use the Dodge adapter with the Howards Allison SAE3 bell housing adapter. Not really what I wanted but have to adjust, my only grip with them is they are poly which causes more NVH than rubber.
 
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