12mm mains or 14mm?

WPDiesel

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Mar 25, 2011
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I'm building a street truck hoping for about 950-1000 on a twin turbo 24v p pump set up. I'm wondering if i put a 12mm with a girdle plate will that be enough to hold it or just take it all apart and do the 14mm main studs?!? Thanks in advance!!
 
Any cool stories at least???!? I know Derek rose has one on 12mm mains but what power was that 1200 on a cr so cylinder pressure was a lot greater then a p pump decompressed!????
 
My mains walked last year and spun a couple bearings at high rpm and 1360rwhp. Went to 14mm's and a modified oil pump and so far so good.
 
I'm building a street truck hoping for about 950-1000 on a twin turbo 24v p pump set up. I'm wondering if i put a 12mm with a girdle plate will that be enough to hold it or just take it all apart and do the 14mm main studs?!? Thanks in advance!!

I'm in the middle of a build for 750-850, I'm doing 14mm for piece of mind, and in case I decide to go more. I'd say unless youre running high rpms, don;t worry about doing 14mm.
 
I don't want to and I have a vf4 at my finger tips just need to buy the extended tap and bits!! It's shooting for 1000 and 600cc of fuel I think!!! I hope and I just decided why chance it I'm taking it down and building it!! What's a few more dollars
 
I don't want to and I have a vf4 at my finger tips just need to buy the extended tap and bits!! It's shooting for 1000 and 600cc of fuel I think!!! I hope and I just decided why chance it I'm taking it down and building it!! What's a few more dollars

I'm running 14mm mains and a girdle in mine and after many 4500+ RPM passes in the 1300-1500hp range I pulled a few caps and they still look perfect. We don't run standard bearings though.
 
What were the modifications to the lube pump

Probably regulated pressure some how at high rpm... Like the water pumps you shave the fins to not make it flow as much... The pressure feed at the oil cooler I would regulate to the max psi but it would probably back feed the oil pump and blow it if I did it lol
 
Do you guys have the main caps dowled to the block? I'm not that familiar with Cummins builds.
 
Mains can easily be drilled and tapped using the maincap as the drill jig with a certain size piece of tubing for in the cap for your drill bit guide. The first one I did took me a total of a hour, with the block laying on the concrete floor. Less time if you've got it on a engine stand where it's comfortable to work on and easy to roll over to let the chips fall out of the hole.
 
Mains can easily be drilled and tapped using the maincap as the drill jig with a certain size piece of tubing for in the cap for your drill bit guide. The first one I did took me a total of a hour, with the block laying on the concrete floor. Less time if you've got it on a engine stand where it's comfortable to work on and easy to roll over to let the chips fall out of the hole.

We must see this sorcery
 
Mains can easily be drilled and tapped using the maincap as the drill jig with a certain size piece of tubing for in the cap for your drill bit guide. The first one I did took me a total of a hour, with the block laying on the concrete floor. Less time if you've got it on a engine stand where it's comfortable to work on and easy to roll over to let the chips fall out of the hole.


I would like to see that one to
 
I could see if you have 4" of guidance it would be hard to screw up really I'd torque it down and take one bolt out at a time... Sounds crazy but in all reality the factory hole should keep you straight all the way through!! Thanks for the input guys
 
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