12v or 24v?

shiftycapone

wandering the desert
Joined
Oct 26, 2007
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I want to hear your pros and cons, opinions, experiences, etc.

Valves, springs, rockers, price, robustness, piston and injector options, everything.
I am just tossing ideas around for the next motor. I have a 24v head already in my posession, but a 12v is not hard to come by. This would be for a p pump motor, turning 5500 or less lets say.

At what point are larger valves needed? When is a good time to remove the plenum? I have my own idea and opinions on these matters, but want to hear others. I know of some very good running trucks with stock valves and intake in place, and I'm sure many on here do too. I see most flow being picked up through bowl work and valve grind and selection, but that's me.

12v Pro's: less moving parts, valvetrain is cheaper, valve options, larger valve stems, lots of injector options.
Con's: does not flow what a 24v does in factory form and I don't know how far you need to go to get what a ported 24v flows

24v Pro's: I have one...., flows more in stock trim.
Con's: valtrain can be a little to alot more money, I dont know if there are as many valve options, smaller valve stem ( Although plenty high rpm trucks don't have problems..larger valves?), more moving parts.

What say you diesel brethren?
 
I actually liked working on the P-pumped 24v more. It seemed easier and less cluttered actually. I honestley dont think starting over with a 12v from your current setup will save you any money at all either.
 
depending on the cam 24v valve trane wont hold up under a high lift cams and the up grade girdle is pretty expensive and then there is some failure. Depends how far you want to go
 
I actually liked working on the P-pumped 24v more. It seemed easier and less cluttered actually. I honestley dont think starting over with a 12v from your current setup will save you any money at all either.

I plan on spending the money when I build it either way Pete, not an insane amount but I know its not free. If I sold my 24v stuff I think it would be ok.

depending on the cam 24v valve trane wont hold up under a high lift cams and the up grade girdle is pretty expensive and then there is some failure. Depends how far you want to go

How much lift are we talking? This will not be a 6000+ rpm puller. It will pull, but not at that level. Unless I could go that far with the auto behind it?

I would rather not worry about my valvetrain failing when running down the track. BUT if things are within safe specs I would feel more at ease.
 
Haisley's big/large intermediate cam is about the largest cam you can run in a 24v with out the upgrade. IIRC Its above 500
 
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24v block, 12v head ported.... or CR head, 24 valve rods and crank, cummins girdle
 
ok to me it seems like the new hamilton head is going to make all that difference obsolite for the 3k it cost for an almost standard head(bigger valves) that flows alot more than a ported 24 head that hasnt had the intake machined.. just my thought and my next build will be along those lines
 
ok to me it seems like the new hamilton head is going to make all that difference obsolite for the 3k it cost for an almost standard head(bigger valves) that flows alot more than a ported 24 head that hasnt had the intake machined.. just my thought and my next build will be along those lines

Thought about this as well. Don't know what they are going to cost though.
 
ok to me it seems like the new hamilton head is going to make all that difference obsolite for the 3k it cost for an almost standard head(bigger valves) that flows alot more than a ported 24 head that hasnt had the intake machined.. just my thought and my next build will be along those lines


Except for the fact that the hamilton head is not legal in the pulling world until you get to the superstock/mod level. The 3.0 classes specifically call out no aftermarket heads.
 
12V head for simplicity, cost, and reliablity reasons. You can get a ported/polished, plenum removed, fully loaded (upgraded larger valves, springs, lightweight retainers, and hd locks) head that flows as well as the new hamilton head for alot less than 3 grand. And it is legal in all the classes. No worry of dropping a seat and no little valve stems to worry about.
 
12V head for simplicity, cost, and reliablity reasons. You can get a ported/polished, plenum removed, fully loaded (upgraded larger valves, springs, lightweight retainers, and hd locks) head that flows as well as the new hamilton head for alot less than 3 grand. And it is legal in all the classes. No worry of dropping a seat and no little valve stems to worry about.

You say alot less than 3 grand? How much less? Starting with a used head or a brand new one?
 
Except for the fact that the hamilton head is not legal in the pulling world until you get to the superstock/mod level. The 3.0 classes specifically call out no aftermarket heads.

but that doesnt apply to us out here in cali.. we cant compete with you guys anyway..*bdh*
 
but that doesnt apply to us out here in cali.. we cant compete with you guys anyway..*bdh*

Exactly. I am only limited by my imagination. Run whatever ya brung pretty much.


The 12v option is looking pretty good.
 
12V head for simplicity, cost, and reliablity reasons. You can get a ported/polished, plenum removed, fully loaded (upgraded larger valves, springs, lightweight retainers, and hd locks) head that flows as well as the new hamilton head for alot less than 3 grand. And it is legal in all the classes. No worry of dropping a seat and no little valve stems to worry about.

Ever have problems with your 24v head?
 
yes. When it was removed to be ported, a couple of seats were dropping. Had to have them fixed.

A few years later I went to install a custom cam with more lift and my expensive springs would hang up on the spring pocket and cause the valves to not close at the same time. And that was with a cam that my springs were supposed to handle. If I wanted to go bigger on the cam, it was going to require a rediculous amount of money thrown at the valvetrain.

A decent amount of power can be made on stock valves and intake on a 24v head, that's what I ran last year. But when you want to take the next step, it just made mroe sense to go with a 12v head. I didn't think the difference in flow between a ported 24V head and a ported 12V head was worth the coin to stay 24v.
 
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