1480 yoke needed??

dieseltracks

dieseltracks

lost
I'm gettin ready to swap my D70 for an 80.
I'll just be pulling Workstock class....
I was thinking that since I have to get my driveshaft shortened anyway....should I go ahead and have them weld on a 1480 yoke and put a 1480 pinioin yoke on the D80 while I'm doing it??

Just wondering if that'd be overkill for the Workstock class.....
 
I figured it prolly was....
Just didn't know if the expense was worth the insurance or not.

I'm prolly in the 415-425hp range....I wasn't sure at what point a person should start stepping up in the driveline area.
 
If you have to take it to a driveshaft shop anyways DO IT!

It doesn't matter if its work stock you will eventually throw a stock yoke!

I've throw 2 in the past 4 years, never had the $$ to upgrade. Next time it goes I don't care if the truck sits for 2 months it will get upgraded!
 
do it. you will regret that you didn't when you had the chance. At least the rear won't be the weak link. Go with spicer non-greaseable u-joints when you put it back together. You're in the 400's now for HP but it won't be long until you'll want more.
 
400 hp can be harder on parts than 700 hp pulling. It won't snuff but it wont spin out fast and will pull down in the torque peak and then...snap!
 
You could be looking at 75 to 125 to S/B the shaft/s, plus the weld yoke, joint probably another 100, then you need the end yoke for the pinion too...

Then you have a 1410 at the front and middle..... So really you aren't upgrading anything....
Have you broke a 1410 CF joint ? ?
 
Well I talked to a driveline shop and got some prices.

I forget what diameter my stock driveshaft is...3" or 3-1/2" (don't remember)...but he says there ain't much sense in putting the bigger ends on it if I'm running a shaft that small.

Most guys (except for the bigger classes) are just running stock shafts...right?

He said he'd do whatever I want to do but he'd rather build me a new 1 piece...I don't wanna do that since I still drive it on a daily basis. I've heard good and bad about a 1 piece shaft on a LWB truck for a daily driver.
 
Have you broke a 1410 CF joint ? ?
Click to expand...
He looked under my truck and said that I have 1350 joints.
It that's the case, then I'd like to atleast upgrade to a 1410.

IDK what the he!! to do....

Someone who has done a D80 swap.....what did you do for the weld on yoke when you shortened ur shaft??
 
dieseltracks said:
He looked under my truck and said that I have 1350 joints.
It that's the case, then I'd like to atleast upgrade to a 1410.

IDK what the he!! to do....
Click to expand...

To restate what may be the obvious, the D80 uses 1410 series in stock form.

If you have 1350s with your D70, I would suggest just getting a new shaft made to use with 1480s and be done with it. 1410s may or may not last, but 1350s likely will not.

Also, some guys run a larger u-joint at the rear yoke to prevent breakage there as it would likely cause more damage than an intermediate u-joint (as in a two-piece shaft).
 
dieseltracks said:
Well I talked to a driveline shop and got some prices.

I forget what diameter my stock driveshaft is...3" or 3-1/2" (don't remember)...but he says there ain't much sense in putting the bigger ends on it if I'm running a shaft that small.

Most guys (except for the bigger classes) are just running stock shafts...right?

He said he'd do whatever I want to do but he'd rather build me a new 1 piece...I don't wanna do that since I still drive it on a daily basis. I've heard good and bad about a 1 piece shaft on a LWB truck for a daily driver.
Click to expand...


I have been doing 1 pc AL conversions before the factories figured it out...

I don't have 1 person ever say anything other then they love the performance and mpg gain they got...

What year is your truck and series... then i'll tell you what series joint you have...

_______________________________________________________

Some short bed ext cab 4x's come with a 3.5" x 4" swedged 1480 or a 3.5" shaft

All the 2pc are 3.5" shaft and 1485 AAM.... it is not spicer....
 
j-rod said:
Also, some guys run a larger u-joint at the rear yoke to prevent breakage there as it would likely cause more damage than an intermediate u-joint (as in a two-piece shaft).
Click to expand...


Breaking a middle joint can and will usually take out the tail housing along with the tank that is usually right next to the hanger bearing and exhaust...depending on the driver to know it and lock it down....
Breaking a front joint....well that all depends on the driver and what speed...
If you can lock the truck up quick enough..you might not do anything...otherwise...you'll break tons of stuff...

Breaking a rear joint, usually sends the rear section of shaft flailing around and can result in bending the stub shaft, some exhaust damage and then falling off and away as it slips off the stub from being bounced around....(a good reason to use a wire tie or none to hold the dust boot on)
 
What year is your truck and series... then i'll tell you what series joint you have...
Click to expand...
I have an 02 2500 with auto trans and a disk brake D70 rear.
Only thing I can think of is that they went to a smaller driveshaft for that model year or sumthin?? IDK.......
I've heard many guys say that you have to shorten the driveshaft when you do a D80 conversion....but do they also have to install a bigger weld yoke when they do it??
My knowledge on the Dana rearends is limited....could use any help I could get here.
 
The D-80 pin section is longer so the shaft would need to be shortened...

However it depends what the D-80 came out of and what year for it to be larger than 1410 which you should have in your truck now...

D-80 in a dodge from 02 should be 1410, however if the D-80 came from something else it could be 1480...
 
Supershafts said:
The D-80 pin section is longer so the shaft would need to be shortened...

However it depends what the D-80 came out of and what year for it to be larger than 1410 which you should have in your truck now...

D-80 in a dodge from 02 should be 1410, however if the D-80 came from something else it could be 1480...
Click to expand...
Yep....knew that my driveshaft had to be shortened.
The guy just glanced under my truck and said that it looked like a 1350 yoke...didn't measure it though. Guess I need to find out for sure.
The D80 that I bought was out of an 02 2500 4x4....same as mine....except it came from a manual trans. truck, obviously.

Do you know what the dimensions are for a 1350 and 1410 joint so I can check mine for sure....and also verify that the D80 is a 1410 just for my own curiosity??
I appreciate the help so far!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top