1997 F350 Cummins Swap, 3 Link with Coilovers, Etc.

jcarrick

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Nov 7, 2012
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137
Hey guys,

I went to update my old thread and found that it was closed so I figured I'd make a new one. My truck is a 1997 F350 CCLB with a 215 P-pump 12 valve cummins mated to a ZF5 and has been converted for the last 50k miles. Heres a pic of the truck currently:

EF4640CD-284B-4CFF-9DAB-1F15E0C8DD5F_zpssbp3tmlr.jpg


For the past year I have been working on developing high end aftermarket products for OBS Fords and have been using mine as truck to test everything out on. I just finished a 3 link front end with coilovers that we are turning into a kit for other OBS owners. Here are some of the pics of that stuff:

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Right now it is just on some tester springs, but the final springs just came in from Eibach on Monday. This setup rides and drives amazingly! Everything is tig welding and cut with a CNC plasma table.

Here are some of future plans for this pickup:
-Dodge AAM 11.5 rear end with self leveling airbag/link setup in the rear.
-Twins turbos. I already have an HT3B 23cm ready to install, just havent had the time. Looking for a cool (temp wise) 450-500hp for towing.
-Subframe that will reduce the crazy frame flex these trucks have. I am meeting with a mechanical engineer for coming up with a good design that wont lead to cracks in other areas of the frame.

I am sure I am forgetting a ton, but I figured I would share with you guys and see what you think! :Cheer:

-Jon
 
Any reason you put the upper 3 link bar opposite of the front drive shaft? I was under the impression it helps control torque better when it's closer to the drive shaft.
 
Looks good!! but just message someone with a colored name and they'll open your thread back up.
 
khaokustoms,
The only reason I put it on the opposite side of the drive shaft is due to the lack or room on the drive shaft side. Everything I had read said that as well, but theoretically it shouldn't matter where it is because it will do the same thing. It is triangulated about 10* and I have no noticeable adverse effects in both 2wd and 4wd yet. It is amazing how well it rides and drives now. I am very pleased with the performance and driveability.

RDPsmoker,
Thank you! Ah, that makes sense. Ill remember that for next time, ha
 
How come the top link is so far away from the axle? Would it not have been better over the axle? Seems like the axle torque is going to add a lot more strain to the top link.
 
Tate,
Link separation helps distribute the load between upper and lower links. Also having the upper link shorter than the lower link keeps the caster angle consistent through the travel of the suspension.
 
I understand that, but with the link mount over hung like it is, the angle between the axle centerline and the link, any torque applied to the axle is going to be multiplied on the link vs. the mount and link forming a 90 degree angle to the axle centerline. Whats the angle of the bracket, and whats the separation between links?
 
Looks pretty good. Well thought out, and simple. How much travel are you gonna limit it to?
 
Jacob 76,
Thank you, that was definitely the intention. It has 4" of up travel and 6" of down travel
 
That's pretty good for a basically stock height pickup. The first time I did mine the hardest part was packaging the trac bar because of the giant cross member. I cut that out for the second go round. I loved the ride, first time I drove it I swore I'd never do leaf springs again. Have you got any plans for the rear? Air ride or something?
 
Yes, exactly. I really did not want to lift it anymore than it was (just an RSK leveling kit in the front). Yes, that trac bar definitely sucked and bending 2"x.025" DOM cold is a challenge. I seriously love the ride as well! I actually used my buddies 06 dodge cummins the other day and was appalled at how rough the front end road. For the rear I am planning on using a Dodge AAM 11.5 axle and doing a parallel 4-link setup with a trac bar and air bags. Im gonna use Goodyear 1R10-089 bags with fox shocks. This will give me 14" of usable travel. Then it will have onboard air and be controlled with Accuair valves and ELevel. This will make it completely auto leveling with the capability to have different right heights pre programmed and be able to dump the air for hooking and unhooking from trailers. Im all ready to do it, but dont have time right now with customers projects... Though I had to make time to do the twins setup.

Im currently doing a 12v swap in a 97 F250 extended cab short box and decided the industrial manifold setup in my truck would work better on the customers and since I was already planning on doing twins it seemed like a good idea. I currently have both turbos mounted and braced and the hot pipe and cold pipe finished. Just need to finish the drain lines, downpipe, intake and intercooler pipe. Here is what the current setup is:
-Hx35, 12cm housing, drilled wastegate to 1"
-HT3B, 23cm twin scroll housing
-Stock 215 injectors
-#0 plate
-Timing at 19*

Here's a progress pic:
AC5186AD-919D-4604-9579-0E57B5D2A056_zpso3l9o17u.jpg


Once time and money provide Im planning on doing:
-AFC Live
-5x.012 injectors from Power Driven Diesel
-Mighty Diesel head bolts
-3200gsk
-Valve springs
 
Having programmable air ride would be cool, I never thought or even heard of it before. I've been slowly collecting parts for a dedicated tow rig for a while and I went with a bendix leveling valve. If something goes wrong anywhere in the country, guaranteed somewhere close will have a replacement. Was my thinking anyhow. On your engine, why not just go with studs right away?
 
I definitely like to do things with those thoughts in mind as well. Check out Accuair. They do a lot of air suspension for lowered classic and new cars, but there stuff will work really well for truck applications as well.

Honestly, I don't want to spend the money on them right now. I know I will get flack for saying that, but thats ok. Right now the roads here are icy/snowy all the time and I don't do a lot of towing in the winter. I did the headgasket and machined the head when I installed the motor about 50k ago. I also used an oversized gasket that, in turn, will help handle higher cylinder pressures. In the next few months I am going to install some of Mighty Diesel's head bolts and that is about as far as I'll go. He has multiple customers running over 70psi on a regular basis that have had zero issues with his bolts.
 
Killer fab work! Of course, you go and do something like this when I get all my suspension done..
 
Thanks man! Ya, I wish I could have had it ready sooner, but oh well, ha
 
I got the twins all finished up and this thing drives amazing! At about 3/4 throttle it gets up to 50psi and I haven't been able to get EGT's over 1250 yet. Very pleased with this setup. Now I need to build hard coolant lines, clean up the wiring, coolant filter system, remote oil filter, etc.

Here's a pic of the finished product:
E88FCF89-B455-41E1-A3FD-EDA3C3AF7176_zpsi3l6uif0.jpg


The current engine setup is:
-HT3B 23cm, HX35 12cm with drilled wastegate and slightly hogged out divider.
-Stock 215 injectors
-215 pump at 16.5* timing
-0 plate, full forward
-5" downpipe, 4" exhaust
-Freshly milled head (50k ago) with oversized OE cummins gasket
-Stock head bolts, torqued to 125lb's. All the holes in the block were tapped and all the bolts were chased with a die to make sure everything was clean and would torque properly.

Here soon I am looking at doing:
-5x.012 injectors
-055 delivery valves
-3k gov springs
-AFC Live
-60# valve springs
-Some sort of new head bolts. Either the allen head bolts, or I am looking for some 12 point head, 12.9 grade, bolts to test out.

For anyone looking to do twins in an OBS fummins, I would recommend going with an S400 turbo over the HT3B. Because of the rotation of the HT3B, it is really difficult to fit the cold pipe with all the factory AC parts in place. The opposite direction of S400 will work much better.

In other news, I got the final set of springs in the coil overs and they drive quite nice!

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