2 stage/dual stage water to air for a daily driver

I run antifreeze in my DD water to air setup. I don't think water wetter will keep it from freezing or boiling, but I could be wrong. I don't know if washer fluid would raise boiling point or not.


Windshield washer fluid has alcohol in it. Alcohol has a lower boiling point that water. Mixing in windshield washer fluid you'll lower the boiling point.

I'd run a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water. You're not going to boil it and your not gonna get it to freeze.

Do you guys think that the cooler can be hurt if no fluid is in the cooler? My 855 has a water to air cooler on it stock, that runs engine coolant through it. I want to build an air to ice water for it but not sure if I can drive the truck to the pulls with no fluid in the inner cooler.
 
Windshield washer fluid has alcohol in it. Alcohol has a lower boiling point that water. Mixing in windshield washer fluid you'll lower the boiling point.

I'd run a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water. You're not going to boil it and your not gonna get it to freeze.

Do you guys think that the cooler can be hurt if no fluid is in the cooler? My 855 has a water to air cooler on it stock, that runs engine coolant through it. I want to build an air to ice water for it but not sure if I can drive the truck to the pulls with no fluid in the inner cooler.

might wanna call the mfr. I'd imagine they could handle the 500*ish temps?
 
Well the manufacturer would be cummins in my case. And if you go to the dealership to buy parts it ask them anything they have no clue! So I'm thinking that won't be very constructive!
 
If you added a small tank for ice, couldn't that be the reservoir? (Maybe a vented lid)

You wouldn't need to run ice, but the option would be there...plus it increases the overall thermal capacity of the system.
 
If it's on its on system you will have to have atleast an expansion tank, or you'll blow off line or damage pump. Or you could run it only like 3/4 full.

Yes if I don't run a full tank in the bed, I would just run an overflow under the hood.

If you added a small tank for ice, couldn't that be the reservoir? (Maybe a vented lid)

You wouldn't need to run ice, but the option would be there...plus it increases the overall thermal capacity of the system.

Would it though? It would be going through the heat exchangers right before it gets to the tank, so the tank water would always be within a few degrees of ambient anyways. I will never run ice. Too much of a pain in the ass.
 
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Yes if I don't run a full tank in the bed, I would just run an overflow under the hood.



Would it though? It would be going through the heat exchangers right before it gets to the tank, so the tank water would always be within a few degrees of ambient anyways. I will never run ice. Too much of a pain in the ass.

If, you will never run ice, then I don't see a reason for a tank, put in a small expansion tank under hood and be done.
 
qa4enydu.jpg


look what I stumbled upon while getting some 4" exhaust parts today at an International dealer

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qa4enydu.jpg


look what I stumbled upon while getting some 4" exhaust parts today at an International dealer

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk 2


Bet that thing would be pluged solid with tar before 5000 miles. Those Max Star engines are nothing but junk. Ive replaced many air to airs on them full of tar from their crankcase ventilation set up.
 
Bet that thing would be pluged solid with tar before 5000 miles. Those Max Star engines are nothing but junk. Ive replaced many air to airs on them full of tar from their crankcase ventilation set up.

Are their water coolers plate exchangers? They look similar to the larger units we make at work
 
If, you will never run ice, then I don't see a reason for a tank, put in a small expansion tank under hood and be done.

I'd still need two of them. What do you recommend?

Actually I might need to use a tank if the rule pumps have to be submersed to keep cool. I need to find that out.
 
I'd still need two of them. What do you recommend?



Actually I might need to use a tank if the rule pumps have to be submersed to keep cool. I need to find that out.


You need one expansion tank per each closed cooling loop. Just like the engine cooling system. It will need a pressurized cap also.


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You need one expansion tank per each closed cooling loop. Just like the engine cooling system. It will need a pressurized cap also.


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I meant what do you recommend for tanks? I have never bought one before. and what psi cap? Should they go after the cooler before the exchanger? Or just anywhere in the system?
 
I meant what do you recommend for tanks? I have never bought one before. and what psi cap? Should they go after the cooler before the exchanger? Or just anywhere in the system?


Oh, well I would say ~15 psi cap. Doesn't need to be big. Maybe just a piece of 3" x 12" aluminum pipe with some tabs welded on it and a radiator filler neck on top and bung for hose. I would tie it into the system just upstream of the pump. Probably could weld something up easily I'm sure.


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You should be fine if you put the tank in the bed. I had my a2w water inlet/outlets lower than my ice tank/pumps. You just don't want water to flow out of your cores it needs to be pushed out.
 
Changed my mind again. I'm going to run a reservoir in the bed, down to pumps on the frame rail if I can fit them anywhere, but they'll probably end up in the bed next to the tank. then to coolers and then to radiators and back to reservoir.

You guys think 1 3800gph pump would work for a system with 2 coolers, 2 radiators and a reservoir? Or would 2 pumps be necessary?
 
2radiators and 2 coolers is a lot for a bilge pump to push water through. Bilge pumps are made to move a bunch of water at low pressure. Having 2 coolers and 2 radiators are going to cause a lot of pressure in the system.

This is my main concern with plumbing an ice water cooler in my 855 Cummins. I have about 4' from the tank to the cooler and probably 15 plus feet if hose to run. Also a system that creates a lot of pressure. I'm gonna try it out though.

Also the coolers and radiators are going to creat a ton of pressure in the system, more than elevation change of pipe will cause.
 
Here's the pump I was going to run. I plan on 2 of them, and running each cooler/radiator/pump as separate circuits, sharing the same tank, more than likely the cheap one (or homemade if I feel up to it) one from frozenboost.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O89BVM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1I4LFLY48MQRF&coliid=IOG9JHIXCP8U3"]Amazon.com: Rule 17A Marine Rule 3800 Marine General Purpose Centrifugal Pump (3800-GPH, 12-Volt): Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41yUfLRLIlL.@@AMEPARAM@@41yUfLRLIlL[/ame]

My concern is the size. I need to fit 2 of them somewhere under the truck somewhere, and I can't really see anywhere they'll fit, except maybe the OUTSIDE of the frame rail on the passenger side. I'd love to run them in the bed, but since they can't pull water, I don't know how I'd do that either, except maybe putting them on their side.

Anyone run a better/smaller pump that can push water 15' to a cooler, through a radiator, and 15' back to the tank? Or better yet, a pump that will push through 2 coolers and 2 radiators? It'd be very nice to only need one pump.
 
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