2006 Ford F-250 Fummins 6 Speed (Pic Heavy)

HazinHtown

New member
Joined
Dec 17, 2009
Messages
235
Selling my Fummins, Only to purchase a truck with more room for a family. I do not need to sell. Please read through this post in its entirety, most questions should be answered, if not, feel free to post questions and PM offers. I will provide my phone number through PM for more detailed information you may need.

**This is NOT a show truck**

Truck is a 2006 F-250 FX4 offroad package.
Originally a 6.0 Power Stroke, converted to a 1995 Cummins 12 Valve
ZF-6 Ford 6 Speed
Current Body Mileage 106,814
Unknown engine miles.

I purchased the truck in January of 2013 from a gentleman in Illinois. I found the truck online, drove out, and trailered it home. At the time of purchase the swap had already been completed however was a bone stock 12 valve minus a south bend clutch. The guy I bought it from said he purchased the truck used in Hershey PA already swapped, and brought it to Illinois. The truck was not exactly as described on my arrival, however after driving a day to get there, it was hard to negotiate, so needless to say I brought the truck home...
[ame]http://s126.photobucket.com/user/red5pointo/media/resize2_zpsc697940e.jpg.html[/ame]

The head gasket went after 2 months. The OEM head was magnafluxed and was found to have cracks near the valve seats so a new head was ordered. With the new head, I upgraded the valve springs to heavier duty models. The head was taken to a machine shop where it was O-Ringed. The factory cross hatching on the cylinder walls was perfect in all 6 cylinders, so much so a ball hone was not needed before re assembly.

The new Head/head gasket were re-installed and tightened to the block with ARP Head studs and torqued appropriately through a heat sequence. I replaced the Ford factory plastic intercooler with a common rail metal end tank intercooler.

I found a Holset HX-55 turbo online, in good condition and ordered it. Other familiar turbos for comparison: HX-35- stock, HX-40, HX Super 40, HX52, HX Super 52... The exhaust housing was too large, so it was discarded and a Holset Super 52 exhaust housing was used. The housing was sent to a machine shop where it was opened up to fit over the exhaust wheel appropriately. The compressor wheel nut was studded by Antrim Diesel to keep the nut from backing off. I built the exhaust and charge pipes going to and from the intercooler.

A FASS 200GPH fuel pump was added to the drivers side frame rail, along with a FASS sump kit. The 200gph pump eventually failed (it was used) and was replaced per FASS customer services' recommendation with a FASS 150GPH pump. The fuel pressure holds 60-64 psi at all times.

The truck came with a South Bend single disc clutch from the Illinois owner. On my test drive in Illinois I noticed the clutch to slip at the top of 5th gear, (with the factory HX-35 turbo). The clutch slip never worsened, even with the new turbo, injectors, delivery valves. Even now, after 3 years of driving this truck with a big single, injectors, delivery valves, the clutch still only slips in the very top of 4th and 5th at wide open throttle. I've daily driven this truck for three years, towed 8k lbs. and driven for 4 hours in traffic with no issues other than being in the top of boost. There has always been a wet spot on the bottom of the transmission which doesn't yield much more than a single drop of oil. My guess, is the rear main seal leaks slightly, misting the oil onto the clutch making it slip at high boost. It has never been investigated further.

The truck is lowered 2 inches front and rear with cut coil springs, and the rear blocks removed.

At interstate speeds the truck sees 5-8lbs of boost, 10-15lbs passing other cars, and has seen boost as high as 55lbs until clutch slip. The transmission is the Ford Factory ZF6 6 speed. I installed a short shifter from Midwest transmission that made a huge difference in shifting.

The e-brake stopped working, and it was found the dust shield on the inner side of the rear brake assembly had rusted, and fell apart, making the e-brake useless. After a lot of reading, this seemed to be a common trend on super-duty's. New dust shields were ordered, as well as e brake pads, and rotors. The rear axles were removed from the rear diff, and the rear diff fluid was changed at 104,400 miles, along with the brakes. The passenger side e-brake cable was found to be seized within its protective coating, and was replaced 100 miles later.

The ball joints were going bad and were replaced with MOOG greaseable ball joints at 106,000 miles. At the same time, the steering arms were replaced with oem parts as well as the passenger side lock out hub, as the original one was rusted and not performing to my satisfaction. During this process, the front differential was emptied, cleaned, and re filled per oem specs.

Factory Options:
4wd w/ floor mounted shifter, power mirrors, power windows, power door locks, vinyl flooring, manual lock out hubs.

Exterior:
4 flush mount LED flood lights mounted in the bumper
2 flush mount LED spot lights mounted in the bumper
6,000K HID low beams w/ DRL high beams
Harley Davidson black out headlights
Black Plastic grill
Chrome 6' miter cut hood stack
Gas pickup power mirrors
20% tint
08 Super Duty taillights
17x8 steel wheels
Black steel lug nuts
1.5" Aluminum wheel spacers w/ studs
315/70R17 Pro Comp Mud Terrains (35x12.50's) 3 used, 1 brand new
Leer Cabelas Branded Cap painted to match, w/ gun rack inside.
Bed Rug w/ Line-X underneath.

Surface rust along bottoms of doors, no penetration or soft spots. Surface rust at drivers side cab corner, no penetration of soft spots. 2 dents in driver's side door, and 1 dent w/ rust resulting in passenger side half door. dent in passenger side bedside at bottom, following the passenger side half door dent.

Exterior: 5/10

Interior:
A pillar 3 gauge pod
Auto meter NV Pyrometer 0-1600 degrees
Auto meter NV Fuel Pressure (electronic) 0-100PSI
Auto meter NV Boost 0-60PSI
Auto meter NV Water Temperature (electronic) 120- 240 degrees
Up fitter switches (1 fuel pump, 2 led bumper lights, 3 empty,4 empty)
OEM Trailer Brake Controller
No tears/rips/cig burns in fabric, not smoked in.
Interior rating: 7/10 (holes in dash from previous owner's switch mount locations)

Engine:
1995 12 valve w/ unknown miles
top fill valve cover with front case cover
2 valve cover breathers w/ hoses extending toward the ground
Full Cut Delivery Valves done by Antrim Diesel Service in Greencastle, PA
5x.012 Injectors done by Antrim Diesel Service
Common Rail Intercooler
Heavy Duty Valve Springs
HX55/52 Single turbo w/ custom exhaust/charge pipes. Compressor-68 billet 7 blade Exhaust-82 Mack part number : 2834366 AR 25
Heavy duty rubber hose fittings, w/ spring style severe duty clamps
Battery's relocated to driver's side.
Electric fans on manual switch in dash
12 valve grid heater wired to floor mounted foot pedal
Averages 13mpg

Transmission:
Ford ZF-6 6 speed
South Bend Single Disc
Short Shifter by Mid West Trans- Fix ZF Manual Transmission Ford PowerStroke & GM Duramax Shifter Problem

Regular Maintenance:
Oil changed with Synthetic every 3,000 Miles
Front passenger tie rod end changed at 104,500 miles
Fuel Filters changed at 106,438
FASS Pump 150gph added at 106,000, brand new.
Oil changed at 104,500
New Coolant hoses top and bottom at 104,500
Passenger side parking brake cable replaced at 104,500
Driver and Passenger side ball joints top and bottom replaced with MOOG grease able units at 106,000
Tie rod end replaced again at 106,000 along with new drag link. (rubber boot ripped on tie rod)
Rear e-brakes/discs/pads/shrouds changed at 104,400, including pulling the axles out of the rear end, and replacing the rear diff fluid at the same time.



The Good:
Truck needs absolutely nothing to be driven from my house in Maryland to California and back.
Mechanically sound for daily driving
Mechanically sound for towing
I've never been stopped in 3 years by police for the exhaust
Can easily drive around the smoke.
Since owning truck, it has never seen EGT's above 1200 degrees (mounted in manifold)
4wd works flawlessly
factory gages work as designed
Turn Key truck, does not need to be plugged in to start in freezing temps.

The Bad:
Exterior needs dents pulled and painted
Clutch will eventually need attention
yellow airbag light constant on since owning.
No Air Conditioning, but may be added rather easily (cummins AC pump, Cummins lines mated with Ford ends, and wired to Ford dash.)

ASKING PRICE:
18,000 OBO. I still have a lien on the truck, so No Trades at this time. Price is best offer. PM them to me, we can talk over text/phone beyond that.
Post questions in the thread.
 
Photos below:
 

Attachments

  • 1.jpg
    1.jpg
    58.3 KB · Views: 0
  • 2.jpg
    2.jpg
    58.3 KB · Views: 0
  • 3.jpg
    3.jpg
    53 KB · Views: 0
  • 4.jpg
    4.jpg
    37.3 KB · Views: 0
  • 5.jpg
    5.jpg
    61.4 KB · Views: 0
  • 10.jpg
    10.jpg
    51.3 KB · Views: 0
  • 9.jpg
    9.jpg
    58 KB · Views: 0
  • 8.jpg
    8.jpg
    30.7 KB · Views: 0
  • 7.jpg
    7.jpg
    59.1 KB · Views: 0
  • 6.jpg
    6.jpg
    58.9 KB · Views: 0
  • 15.jpg
    15.jpg
    23.5 KB · Views: 0
  • 14.jpg
    14.jpg
    38.9 KB · Views: 0
  • 13.jpg
    13.jpg
    42.7 KB · Views: 0
  • 12.jpg
    12.jpg
    45.7 KB · Views: 0
  • 11.jpg
    11.jpg
    50.1 KB · Views: 0
  • 16.jpg
    16.jpg
    22.2 KB · Views: 0
  • 17.jpg
    17.jpg
    21.7 KB · Views: 0
  • 18.jpg
    18.jpg
    28.3 KB · Views: 0
Pics Below:
 

Attachments

  • 23.jpg
    23.jpg
    49.3 KB · Views: 0
  • 22.jpg
    22.jpg
    44.3 KB · Views: 0
  • 21.jpg
    21.jpg
    32.1 KB · Views: 0
  • 20.jpg
    20.jpg
    21.4 KB · Views: 0
  • 19.jpg
    19.jpg
    33.8 KB · Views: 0
  • 28.jpg
    28.jpg
    50.7 KB · Views: 0
  • 27.jpg
    27.jpg
    31.2 KB · Views: 0
  • 26.jpg
    26.jpg
    40.7 KB · Views: 0
  • 25.jpg
    25.jpg
    35.8 KB · Views: 0
  • 24.jpg
    24.jpg
    36 KB · Views: 0
  • 33.jpg
    33.jpg
    47.3 KB · Views: 0
  • 32d.rear.jpg
    32d.rear.jpg
    28.1 KB · Views: 0
  • 31d.front.jpg
    31d.front.jpg
    28 KB · Views: 0
  • 30p.front.jpg
    30p.front.jpg
    27.9 KB · Views: 0
  • 29p.rear.jpg
    29p.rear.jpg
    33.4 KB · Views: 0
  • 34.jpg
    34.jpg
    59.3 KB · Views: 0
  • 35.jpg
    35.jpg
    63.9 KB · Views: 0
  • 36.jpg
    36.jpg
    65.6 KB · Views: 0
Final Photos Below:
 

Attachments

  • 41.jpg
    41.jpg
    47.1 KB · Views: 0
  • 40.jpg
    40.jpg
    67.1 KB · Views: 0
  • 39.jpg
    39.jpg
    56.5 KB · Views: 0
  • 38.jpg
    38.jpg
    68.3 KB · Views: 0
  • 37.jpg
    37.jpg
    73.5 KB · Views: 0
  • 42.jpg
    42.jpg
    41.6 KB · Views: 0
  • 43.jpg
    43.jpg
    55.6 KB · Views: 0
  • 44.jpg
    44.jpg
    51.6 KB · Views: 0
  • 45.jpg
    45.jpg
    59.8 KB · Views: 0
  • 46.jpg
    46.jpg
    52.6 KB · Views: 0
  • 51.jpg
    51.jpg
    33.3 KB · Views: 0
  • 50.jpg
    50.jpg
    30.7 KB · Views: 0
  • 49.jpg
    49.jpg
    27.1 KB · Views: 0
  • 48.jpg
    48.jpg
    55.7 KB · Views: 0
  • 47.jpg
    47.jpg
    78.7 KB · Views: 0
  • 52.jpg
    52.jpg
    71.6 KB · Views: 0
  • 53.jpg
    53.jpg
    57.7 KB · Views: 0
Why is the turbo mounted that way?

When I bought the truck, it came with the factory hx-35, mounted to that style manifold, which I believe is off of an industrial motor. That manifold puts the turbo between cylinders 2 and 3 /or cylinders 4 and 5 depending on which way you flip it.

When I got it, the hx-35 was attached and it was flipped so it sat between cylinders 4-5, low, between the block and the heater/ac box. The hx-55 was too large, especially after adding the t-3/t-4 angle adapter to fit between the block and the heater/ac box.

In lieu of buying a new aftermarket manifold, the original was flipped, bringing the turbo up, and to the front of the truck, away from the heater / ac box and with plenty of room minus hood clearance.
 
Back
Top