2012 overheating

d_lperformance

d_lperformance

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Joined
Apr 27, 2010
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161
have a 2012 that will peg the gauge for 3 seconds on gauge then run normal the rest of the day gauge will fluctuate from 188- 200 depending on terrain sometimes loses heat in the cab but still runs normal temps will overfill reservoir but not consistant ran all day yesterday fine set overnight pegged gauge went back to normal temp lost heat in cab but running normal temps doesnt appear to want to refill from reservoir changed thermostat dodge changed pump twice only has 28k on it has been deleted running xrt on stock leaning toward a head gasket just really odd behavier
 
For as many times you have had the cooling system open and the heat loss in cab it sounds like you have an air pocket in the cooling system. Dont rule out a head gasket failure but I would try bleeding the system.
 
been bleed numerous times issue seems to be when it cools down and refills recirc tank it doesnt suck it back out collapses the upper hose gettin ready to pull head now
 
Replace the radiator cap.

sent from my mobile thingy while picking my nose.
 
I forgot the "?".

That was supposed to be a question.

sent from my mobile thingy while picking my nose.
 
d_lperformance said:
been bleed numerous times issue seems to be when it cools down and refills recirc tank it doesnt suck it back out collapses the upper hose gettin ready to pull head now
Click to expand...


This is why I asked about the cap.

Replace it again your cap is not functioning correctly.
This may not be your whole problem however it collapsing the hose is it just plain not working as intended.
 
Loss of heat in the cab and filling the coolant reservoir are tell tale signs you blew your head gasket. Its very common on the 6.7s unfortunately.
 
Pulled it bolts weren't as tight as I think they shoulda been yea sucks w 28k on it

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2
 
I had the same problem, I changed the T-stat and problem solved.
 
On the 2010+ trucks the timing level doesn't scale back when you run low power tunes ie stock/no power level. If your timing was set at 3 (default) I would guess this probably caused the failure. The timing would be to advanced for that level leading to high cylinder pressures.

A side note the stock/no power level has less power then the true factory tune, mild with timing at 2 is a closer match to stock.
 
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