24v and 12v block difference

cumminsforlife

cumminsforlife

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Jan 23, 2013
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Hey guys for starters iv done reasearch and have looked at every thread possible and no one seems to give a for sure answer to anything. I know the cam sensors and crank sensors are different but not clear on that.The story on the truck is last week i went and bought this truck (2000 24v) every thing was great on the truck besides (53 block) when test driving, no leaks no problems. So i get on the high way headed home and blows the rear main seal (yes i got srewed bad). I ordered a rebuild kit for it and am wanting to change the block because of the (53) it will crack eventually. I have a good 12v block ready to go. I know i have to us 24v push rods,pistons,head and cam. My question is do all 24v blocks/motors have crank or cam shaft sensors and what do i do about it if i want to change the block. Money isnt the best right now so i cant just go out and buy a bunch of stuff like a 12v head or an other complete motor im trying to make what i have work. thanks
 
01-02 only need a cam sensor for everything to work. 98.5-2000 need a crank sensor for rpm pickup n such. I've swapped a few 12 valves:ft: into later trucks where a crank sensor is needed. I put a tone wheel in front of the balancer and made a bracket for the oem crank sensor there. I had one oddball 2000 titled truck which had a cam sensor only. Moral of the story is, use any block you want n put a tone wheel on to get rpm signal for the electronics to work as intended. Easy simple swap. I have plenty of tone wheels and spacers if u need one.

Good luck,
Cousin Billy @ BRC Diesel
 
From what you say the motor now already has the tone wheel. The only thing ill have to make is the bracket which would look like an L. Do you have a pic of this.
 
The motor mounts changed in 1998 for the 24 valve.

Don't forget that some extremely late 1997 and many 1998 12 valves have the same block casting as a 24 valve, but still use the 12 valve mounts.

Mark.
 
If money is tight right now why not just put a rear main seal in it until you find a 55 block? I disagree that just because it is a 53 block it's going to crack sooner or later, I just don't think that is the case. I have a 2000 with a 53 block that has been beat to death and back and still has not cracked. Just my 2 cents.
 
Cousin Billy said:
01-02 only need a cam sensor for everything to work. 98.5-2000 need a crank sensor for rpm pickup n such. I've swapped a few 12 valves:ft: into later trucks where a crank sensor is needed. I put a tone wheel in front of the balancer and made a bracket for the oem crank sensor there. I had one oddball 2000 titled truck which had a cam sensor only. Moral of the story is, use any block you want n put a tone wheel on to get rpm signal for the electronics to work as intended. Easy simple swap. I have plenty of tone wheels and spacers if u need one.

Good luck,
Cousin Billy @ BRC Diesel
Click to expand...

Will this throw off the balancer at all? I need to do something similar on my 99
 
RockinRam96 said:
If money is tight right now why not just put a rear main seal in it until you find a 55 block? I disagree that just because it is a 53 block it's going to crack sooner or later, I just don't think that is the case. I have a 2000 with a 53 block that has been beat to death and back and still has not cracked. Just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...
I agree with this assessment.
I've seen a LOT of '53s with in excess of 350k on them, in stick shift 1 tons that pulled everything from livestock to 6 car haulers, and not a problem.
But then again, I've seen some 3/4 tons that had automatics with 50k where the '53 block pissed the bed.

Mark.
 
Is there anyway i can make the block stronger iv heard they crack from the water pressure after the motor is shut down so if i were to get an electric water pump would that help at all.
 
The only thing the truck has is an edge with 100hp injectors and an hx52 turbo builds right around 50lbs of boost and is there anyway to make it stronger or prevent crack.
 
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I think there's a lot more to a cracked block than pointing fingers at one issue. Glycol (the main ingredient in coolant) is very corrosive. The proper mixture of glycol and water I feel is a big factor. Also the way the motor is treated. If it's properly warmed up and good coolant level I think it has a better chance of living.

Think about this, Mark said he's seen auto's crack quickly, there's an oil cooler on that side of the block right where the blocks are probe to cracking. Where a manual does not have an oil cooler.

If it were me, I'd change the coolant with the proper mixture, replace the rear main seal and address the problem when it is a real issue.

Edit: My 53 block has 220,000 brutal miles on it.
 
RockinRam96 said:
I think there's a lot more to a cracked block than pointing fingers at one issue. Glycol (the main ingredient in coolant) is very corrosive. The proper mixture of glycol and water I feel is a big factor. Also the way the motor is treated. If it's properly warmed up and good coolant level I think it has a better chance of living.

Think about this, Mark said he's seen auto's crack quickly, there's an oil cooler on that side of the block right where the blocks are probe to cracking. Where a manual does not have an oil cooler.

If it were me, I'd change the coolant with the proper mixture, replace the rear main seal and address the problem when it is a real issue.

Edit: My 53 block has 220,000 brutal miles on it.
Click to expand...


Doesn't most antifreeze have a corrosion inhibitor as part of the antifreeze?
 
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