3500 common rail troubles.

74Powerwagon

74Powerwagon

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Dec 23, 2017
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Long story short I bought the truck and wasn’t told the whole truth on the maintenance. I was getting out in front of traffic and I sent the impeller wheel of the turbo through the intercooler and into the motor. So with almost 300k on the clock we decied to rebuild it. Studded everything in it on the build.

Rebuilt the motor my self(went to a cat specific tech school). Everything on the motor side is fine im fighting the computer or some kind of wireing.

You can start the truck in the morning and it won’t run right it coughs and it’s throwing 14 or so codes im not 100% sure on the numbers but it’s throwing a 2 codes for the throttle positioner, codes for the map sensor and ambient air temp sensor, bank one high/low fault, code for the cam sensor(has been changed today) I also keep getting the water in fuel light coming on no matter how much I drain separator.

You can unhook the fuel rail sensor and the truck will for to full rail pressure and will not drop off it stays about 27,000 and the idle smooths out and it dosent go up and down. When you hook rail pressure sensor back up the idle will climb and fall and most times when it falls rail pressure is 1900 and the truck dies.

At a loss with this truck have tried so many things and it’s not getting me any where any help would be much appreciated
 
Did it do this before you sent the turbo through the motor? Im guessing this snsomething new. Something unplugged, wires pinched, something plugged into where it doesnt belong?
 
No all was good till it did that. I can’t find any more plugs to check looked at them all also unplugged them all and put die electric grease and cleaned them all with plug cleaner. I don’t believe there are any wires that are pinched I have looked at just about everything but it’s all a possibility at a loss!
 
IMO that is throwing too many codes to be all those sensors or wires. i would look twords ECM plug or ECM itself. electrical gremlins are the WORST. are you missing something stupid like a ground wire on the battery or engine block?


...and for future reference the turbo didn't die from lack of maintenance.
Does it have a tune? gauges?
 
5V supply....
What codes, and is it happening during the intake heater cycling?

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SixOhh said:
IMO that is throwing too many codes to be all those sensors or wires. i would look twords ECM plug or ECM itself. electrical gremlins are the WORST. are you missing something stupid like a ground wire on the battery or engine block?


...and for future reference the turbo didn't die from lack of maintenance.
Does it have a tune? gauges?
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I have pulled ecm plug out and cleaned it and such it’s almost an intermittent problem it comes and gose once it gets running it runs great! But just hard on start up like over fueling I can’t find any grounds more to hook up honestly. And had a edge and was at 40psi when it went getting in front of traffic found out I lost a seal and the barring seized in it snapping the shaft so impeller wheel is separate
 
Last edited:
biggy238 said:
5V supply....
What codes, and is it happening during the intake heater cycling?

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Click to expand...

It seems to happen all the time once grid heater is off it gose to 9 codes after you clear it 2 days ago I got it to run right after I held it at 1200rpm and went to drive it but it was missing and stumbling. Brought it home and after two days it was back to its same thing. It’s intermittent once it’s warmed up once it’s runing normal it’s got all the power and then some.
 
It is going to be something 5 volt shorted causing all your codes. First start simp and clean all your grounds, including the small ones on the block ensuring there is no paint behind them. Next unplug all the 5v sensors one at a time and clear the codes each time. If you find the shorted sensor then that should be the only code present. Often times it’s related to the cooling fan.
 
I am willing to be the the problem is the batteries. Could be wrong but change them or charge them and see if it happens. Quick test is to hook jumper cables or a charger up and start it when it's cold to see if it does it. Could also un hook grid heater to see if problem goes away.
 
Guess I didn’t read the part about only doing it with grid heater on. Definitely separate and load test the batteries after they are fully charged. Be nice to have a list of the codes that it has recurring.
 
Check your rail pressure sensor i've seen it plugged in backwards and doing that!
 
Monitor your sensors Key On Engine Off. Look for Data that's out of range.
Do this with and without the grid heaters. Use your sensor ranges to decide what to unhook first.

Find the ground splice for the ecm/alt and whatever else is attached. Put the high side of the DVOM on it, and the low side on the battery ground terminal. Cycle the power and watch for voltage. Anything past 1/2V is a bad ground path return.

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YoungDiesel27 said:
It is going to be something 5 volt shorted causing all your codes. First start simp and clean all your grounds, including the small ones on the block ensuring there is no paint behind them. Next unplug all the 5v sensors one at a time and clear the codes each time. If you find the shorted sensor then that should be the only code present. Often times it’s related to the cooling fan.
Click to expand...

It’s not just with the grid heater at times it comes and gose where are the most crucial grounds to check? And I thought it was battery’s both ended up being bad causing low cranking volts so we changed both of the battery’s
 
ComnRailPwr said:
I am willing to be the the problem is the batteries. Could be wrong but change them or charge them and see if it happens. Quick test is to hook jumper cables or a charger up and start it when it's cold to see if it does it. Could also un hook grid heater to see if problem goes away.
Click to expand...

New battery’s but I had same thought of hooking up a charger and the problem persisted
 
biggy238 said:
Monitor your sensors Key On Engine Off. Look for Data that's out of range.
Do this with and without the grid heaters. Use your sensor ranges to decide what to unhook first.

Find the ground splice for the ecm/alt and whatever else is attached. Put the high side of the DVOM on it, and the low side on the battery ground terminal. Cycle the power and watch for voltage. Anything past 1/2V is a bad ground path return.

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

There is a code for ambient air temp and intake air real but both of those readings are good. Once truck is started the computer module voltage is 12v. which I know will cause a low 5v to the sensors
 
P0237
P0652
P2127
P0193
P0016(new)
P0341
P0625
P0069

These are the codes and also water in fuel light keeps coming on even if I drain separator


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74Powerwagon said:
There is a code for ambient air temp and intake air real but both of those readings are good. Once truck is started the computer module voltage is 12v. which I know will cause a low 5v to the sensors
Click to expand...

Where would I look for an alternator ground?
 
YoungDiesel27 said:
It’s bolted to the ground. I’ve seen an issue in a few trucks where people didn’t get the wiring harness zip tied back and it rubbed on the top pulley.
Click to expand...



One of the bolts is a ground? And yes that’s put up away from pulley


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