3rd Gen Puller chassis setup?

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This is How I Did mine when We had to run a Reese style. I didn't weld it solid to the tubing from the frame rail ends. It just acted as a cradle and pulled from the cross member over the rear axle. It scraped 1/4 of paint off at the cradle So I know it was working fairly decent.
And that's not the hitch I used. I built one that was tight to the receiver.
 
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So was I, even sent them pictures. I agree that this shouldn't be legal in 2.5 but I tried to do the right thing and got pre approval.
 
This should work. It will make my rear hook harder but back to square one with front lift. Hopefully it evens out.
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Looks to me like the new one will help get the rear hooked much better...what part of the truck isn't hooking up?

ComnRailPwr said:
So was I, even sent them pictures. I agree that this shouldn't be legal in 2.5 but I tried to do the right thing and got pre approval.
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You sent them those pictures and they said that would be legal??

Their eyes must not have been open...
 
John_DeereGreen said:
Looks to me like the new one will help get the rear hooked much better...what part of the truck isn't hooking up?

You sent them those pictures and they said that would be legal??

Their eyes must not have been open...
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I agree. Im having trouble with front lift which causes a loss in pitch height. I can only hang 6-650. Only other things I can gut is the crap behind the dash, 4 rear leafs and power Window crap in the rear. Being 2.5 im limited to 7800# and minimal I can gut. Already got single battery and fuel cell. Engine bay is as empty as I can get it. Being a cclb with dually axle its heavy. Anyone know the weight difference between dually rear and a srw rear? May put this axle in my 08 and vice versa if weight savings is worth it. Also probably convert to a lighter style brakes in the rear this winter.
 
ComnRailPwr said:
I agree. Im having trouble with front lift which causes a loss in pitch height. I can only hang 6-650. Only other things I can gut is the crap behind the dash, 4 rear leafs and power Window crap in the rear. Being 2.5 im limited to 7800# and minimal I can gut. Already got single battery and fuel cell. Engine bay is as empty as I can get it. Being a cclb with dually axle its heavy. Anyone know the weight difference between dually rear and a srw rear? May put this axle in my 08 and vice versa if weight savings is worth it. Also probably convert to a lighter style brakes in the rear this winter.
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rules say factory brakes
 
As long as their brakes I dont think they'll care. If thats the case then people running first gens and fords with 80's under them are illegal. Would be the same if you had factory drum and put an 80 with disk under there.
 
Have you tried swapping the old traction bars back? I know you loose ability to hang weight if you put more under the truck, but my understanding of traction/ladder bars is that you're effectivly shifting some of the rear axle load further forward?

With that new hitch, I'd probably run a little more pressure in the rear tires. It's going to make the rear hook harder I think, but as soon as the rear hooks and starts to dig, you're going to let the front end come up too much. So with additional air in the back, it may help counter act that?

Just from what I'm observing. I'm not a sled puller, just a street toy/work truck, and a sled pull observer here!
 
What is the idea behind removing leafs?

Between the two hitches I don't see much changing if your hook point is exactly the same. If you could have just triangulated the illegal hitch to the back of the frame sure would have been more stiff.
 
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To loose weight so it can be moved to the front. I dont believe they have to have any travel, but have to have the factory suspension mounting points. So if your allowed to have your suspension ridged, they use bump stops to stop the travel, once you are on the stops the springs arent doing anything anyhow so it is just extra weight in the wrong spot.
 
Joesixpack said:
What is the idea behind removing leafs?

Between the two hitches I don't see much changing if your hook point is exactly the same. If you could have just triangulated the illegal hitch to the back of the frame sure would have been more stiff.
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Remove leafs to save weight, some say it needs to be 4 linked tho to keep the axle in check. The hooking points are the same between the two hitches but the first "illegal" hitch loaded the frame just behind center of rear axle where my solid stops are. This created less of a lever effect causing the front to stay down more. The current one loads the frame 15" further rearward.
 
If you have any rake to where the asssss end is higher than the front when it's just sitting there unhooked and loaded with weight in the front, you have room for improvement to limit the front lift. Lowering the rear will help immensely with that.

That's what you're looking for IMO.
 
SmokeShow said:
If you have any rake to where the asssss end is higher than the front when it's just sitting there unhooked and loaded with weight in the front, you have room for improvement to limit the front lift. Lowering the rear will help immensely with that.

That's what you're looking for IMO.
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I agree. I lowered the rear 2" before the season. Im gonna lower it so the locator leaf is on the axle perch which will net me another 1.125" lower after this wknd during our 3 wk break. I'll then compress so I get roughly -1" rake? Or should I go more. Truck has 1-1.5" of rake at the moment.
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From my experience you want the a$$ end just a touch higher than the front sitting there unhooked. Then when you hook and it's loaded up the rear will drop just a bit and the entire truck will be level or planed out going down the track. Still waiting to get my pics of the suspension set-up but I haven't been to the shop in like 3 weeks. I promise I haven't forgotten about you though lol
 
94 12valve said:
any improvement with your new hitch?
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The hitch is like one I previously had. It does hook the truck harder but causes a little more lift. Its kind of a trade off.


c_houchins8_182 said:
From my experience you want the a$$ end just a touch higher than the front sitting there unhooked. Then when you hook and it's loaded up the rear will drop just a bit and the entire truck will be level or planed out going down the track. Still waiting to get my pics of the suspension set-up but I haven't been to the shop in like 3 weeks. I promise I haven't forgotten about you though lol
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Gotcha. Thx
 
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