47re build questions.

Bustedknuckles

Bustedknuckles

Honey Badger
Joined
Jul 24, 2009
Messages
1,778
So against better judgement I decided to build a friends 47re for him. I got a Goerend master kit with a full valve body and it was actually easier than I expected!!!! Ive bugged Dave a few times so I decided to start this thread to ask some questions so I don't have to waste his time. Basically I have it all back together and before it put the overdrive unit on I'm checking the clearances using a straight edge off the overdrive case down to the bearing surface inside. I cant remember what's its called right now as its 11:15 and ive had a big day. LOL. But anyway my problem is that my measurement is less than the minimum spec in the book, does anyone have a clue or do y'all need more technical terms? If so I can get those tomorrow.
 
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Alright the measurement is from the face of the overdrive housing to the clutch hub thrust bearing surface. I'm getting 1.33 and the minimum measurement on the chart used for selecting thrust plate thickness is 1.75??????
 
How thick is your straight edge? I I think the dodge tool to measure is half an inch thick, if you use a different thickness you have to compensate for it.
 
Kill said:
How thick is your straight edge? I I think the dodge tool to measure is half an inch thick, if you use a different thickness you have to compensate for it.
Click to expand...

Its .25. I'm taking the average measurement of 4 points and subtracting .25 off of it to get my number.
 
I think you need to add in .5 for the factory dodge tool. Just checked my 2004 dodge service manual and they don't subtract out the thickness of the tool. It's been a while since i've done this though and your manual may be different.
 
Pop the OD piston out, and the snap ring that holds your top plate in. Then put the bearing, spacer, and OD piston on top of the OD. Then measure the distance you can lift the top plate before the piston starts to lift. You need to lift it on both sides.

.100-.120 is a good dimension. More is better. Too little and your applying the OD before the brake clutches have released.
 
Kill said:
I think you need to add in .5 for the factory dodge tool. Just checked my 2004 dodge service manual and they don't subtract out the thickness of the tool. It's been a while since i've done this though and your manual may be different.
Click to expand...

You are right, I didn't even think about the tool thickness not being taken off in the book. Thanks! I just added .25 to my measurement of 1.58 to get 1.83 which has me right in the middle of the chart needing a .183- .185 thrust plate. Thanks a lot man!!!!
 
zstroken said:
Pop the OD piston out, and the snap ring that holds your top plate in. Then put the bearing, spacer, and OD piston on top of the OD. Then measure the distance you can lift the top plate before the piston starts to lift. You need to lift it on both sides.

.100-.120 is a good dimension. More is better. Too little and your applying the OD before the brake clutches have released.
Click to expand...

What are you referring to as the top plate? The OD piston bore that bolts to the back of the trans and is held in with a snap ring on the inside?
 
I do it like Zstroken.

Sit the OD housing upright on your workbench. Lay the spacer and bearing in, then lay the OD piston on top. You do NOT want to have the round snap ring in that holds the last steel in the OD brake pack. Then i use an allen wrench to measure the space between the top steel and the OD piston. IF you are using wavy clutches be sure to press them down til they are colaplsed as much as possible before measuring the space between. .100-.120 like he said.
 
mathews8pt said:
I do it like Zstroken.

Sit the OD housing upright on your workbench. Lay the spacer and bearing in, then lay the OD piston on top. You do NOT want to have the round snap ring in that holds the last steel in the OD brake pack. Then i use an allen wrench to measure the space between the top steel and the OD piston. IF you are using wavy clutches be sure to press them down til they are colaplsed as much as possible before measuring the space between. .100-.120 like he said.
Click to expand...







zstroken said:
No the top steel on the OD unit.
Click to expand...

Ah ok. Thanks guys, I did it the hard way obviously, I will remember that for the next one!
 
Is .038 enough endplay on the input shaft? The book calls for .034-.084 so that's good according to the book but I didn't know if guys like to set them on the loose end of the range or not.
 
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The trans is in and shifting perfectly! It's a good feeling as this was my first trans build ever! I guess we'll see how long it lasts now. LOL. Thanks again for your help guys!
 
So after running it for like 10 minutes the trans was overheating and after a little diagnosing yesterday we figured out that the cooler lines were plugged, something was stuck in the line from the trans to the cooler before the check ball. We trailered it back to my coworkers place and he tried everything to get it out today and it wouldn't so he took it off and made a fitting to hook it up to the hydraulics on a tractor and whatever it was blew out when they turned the hydraulics on. LOL. They just sent me a burnout video, that wouldn't be they way I would have liked to try out my first trans build ever let alone on a twin turboed commonrail but hey, if there's a weak link I guess it will be found quickly!
 
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