47re Line Pressure vs. Pump?

ARbowhunter7

ARbowhunter7

Opulence...I Has It.
Joined
Sep 8, 2007
Messages
1,370
After entirely too much time and effort invested correcting my 47re shift-pattern woes, I tried something easy that works wonderfully.
Please, before replying with a copy/paste link from Firepunk, note that I have every intention of swapping over to Anteater, but my current lack of both time and a TPS signal necessitate other arrangements. Also, I have been tinkering with this issue feverishly for quite some time, so you can assume that I've eliminated the commonplace issues...temp, speed, and pressure sensors, orange wire resistance, etc. I'm so deep in that I have a permanently mounted line pressure gauge in the cab.

Trans details are Sonnax billet shafts (all three) and a low-stall DPC triple inside a DTT transmission with an HTS VB that locks up in 2nd. At the accumulator port, I see 190 psi in OD at WOT.

With that exhausting introduction behind us, my question is very simple. I recently performed the simple task of tying my TV lever back so that she's at 100% line pressure at idle...this made the transmission an absolute dream to drive. The shift pattern is beautiful...I don't even catch 3rd until 40 mph, which is just perfect as I'm running a S475 single on a 12 valve.
Despite my initial elation, I remain curious as to the effect of high line pressure on the longevity of the pump. I know some race trucks are running more pressure than me, as I've seen evidence of 210+ line pressures collapsing the forward clutch return spring. Just how resilient is the 47re pump? Am I pushing it too hard with the TV lever maxed at idle?
My sincerest thanks, in advance, for your time.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
ARbowhunter7 said:
After entirely too much time and effort invested correcting my 47re shift-pattern woes, I tried something easy that works wonderfully.
Please, before replying with a copy/paste link from Firepunk, note that I have every intention of swapping over to Anteater, but my current lack of both time and a TPS signal necessitate other arrangements. Also, I have been tinkering with this issue feverishly for quite some time, so you can assume that I've eliminated the commonplace issues...temp, speed, and pressure sensors, orange wire resistance, etc. I'm so deep in that I have a permanently mounted line pressure gauge in the cab.

Trans details are Sonnax billet shafts (all three) and a low-stall DPC triple inside a DTT transmission with an HTS VB that locks up in 2nd. At the accumulator port, I see 190 psi in OD at WOT.

With that exhausting introduction behind us, my question is very simple. I recently performed the simple task of tying my TV lever back so that she's at 100% line pressure at idle...this made the transmission an absolute dream to drive. The shift pattern is beautiful...I don't even catch 3rd until 40 mph, which is just perfect as I'm running a S475 single on a 12 valve.
Despite my initial elation, I remain curious as to the effect of high line pressure on the longevity of the pump. I know some race trucks are running more pressure than me, as I've seen evidence of 210+ line pressures collapsing the forward clutch return spring. Just how resilient is the 47re pump? Am I pushing it too hard with the TV lever maxed at idle?
My sincerest thanks, in advance, for your time.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


Something I did years ago on my puller, was to adjust the stop on the TV on the vb. Basically it wouldn't drop less than 50% closed, and then could still go full throttle. This raised shift points significantly and didn't run line pressure full. You can also change the TV spring in the VB and it will raise them as well.
 
Lots of people run constant pressure vb, don't know how many dd them. But I don't see how it would affect longevity of the pump as long as there aren't any pressure spikes and fluid is healthy.
 
zstroken said:
Something I did years ago on my puller, was to adjust the stop on the TV on the vb. Basically it wouldn't drop less than 50% closed, and then could still go full throttle. This raised shift points significantly and didn't run line pressure full. You can also change the TV spring in the VB and it will raise them as well.
Click to expand...

This is what I did as well. I tied a zip tie on the TV lever and kept adjusting it until it would DD how I wanted it to. Once I found the sweet spot, I pulled the pan and adjusted the TV screw to match the lever position. Since then, I haven't hunted for gears or anything and it shifts down to 1st when I hit 'rolling stops'. I do get OD hunting on occasion, but it's usually when I'm towing on a 55mph road and the throttle is right on the brink of where lockup is (that's PCM/TPS controlled though, so nothing to do with TV really).

Adjust this guy:
857287_10151309548740814_1844696167_o_zps28756044.jpg


Poulina said:
Lots of people run constant pressure vb, don't know how many dd them. But I don't see how it would affect longevity of the pump as long as there aren't any pressure spikes and fluid is healthy.
Click to expand...

I know a few guys that DD manual valve body trucks with the lever pulled tight. None of them have lost a pump. I think as long as temps are down, fluid is clean, and you're not getting cavitation, your pump should live indefinitely.
 
I run Full Pressure daily in my shorty truck. its manual VB, but no issues. other than broken shafts....doh
 
I actually plan on swapping a manual vb 47re in my 3rd gen 6.7 when I find somebody who wants my g56.

Constant pressure valve body for the win! Especially when you put it in gear and the rear wheels chirp. So sexy haha
 
I know you said no anteaters :D, but my daily driver test truck for the anteater has run with a static 95% TV for the last 4 years.

I have killed a few pumps, most were my fault. I believe my pump issue can be isolated to either a cavitation issue or possibly a machining issue with my adapter plate. Pumps normally last for ~3000mi then they start to lose pressure. The pump stator is always chewed up and it loses fluid pressure when it's warm.
 
CorneliusRox said:
This is what I did as well. I tied a zip tie on the TV lever and kept adjusting it until it would DD how I wanted it to. Once I found the sweet spot, I pulled the pan and adjusted the TV screw to match the lever position. Since then, I haven't hunted for gears or anything and it shifts down to 1st when I hit 'rolling stops'. I do get OD hunting on occasion, but it's usually when I'm towing on a 55mph road and the throttle is right on the brink of where lockup is (that's PCM/TPS controlled though, so nothing to do with TV really).



Adjust this guy:

857287_10151309548740814_1844696167_o_zps28756044.jpg








I know a few guys that DD manual valve body trucks with the lever pulled tight. None of them have lost a pump. I think as long as temps are down, fluid is clean, and you're not getting cavitation, your pump should live indefinitely.
Click to expand...



Just so everyone is clear, the one to adjust is NOT the one your pointing to, rather the one with blue thread lock in the center of the picture.

Full line pressure will wear parts out quicker IMO, but not ridiculously fast. You are stressing some parts more then needed. I would adjust the TV lever stop to shift where you like and then leave the cable hooked up for WOT pressure increases.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
mathews8pt said:
Just so everyone is clear, the one to adjust is NOT the one your pointing to, rather the one with blue thread lock in the center of the picture.

Full line pressure will wear parts out quicker IMO, but not ridiculously fast. You are stressing some parts more then needed. I would adjust the TV lever stop to shift where you like and then leave the cable hooked up for WOT pressure increases.
Click to expand...

Ah ****! You're right.
Thanks for the correction!

Maybe a mod can correct my post in case someone is skimming in the future?
 
So the correct adjustment (blue locktite) adjusted in will give higher rpm part throttle shifts?
 
BRE said:
So the correct adjustment (blue locktite) adjusted in will give higher rpm part throttle shifts?
Click to expand...

It does the same thing as the TV Lever tied to your throttle (via TV cable). It just sets it's minimum point essentially.

So if you set it to 50% of your TV Levers actuation, the TV Lever will not do anything but take up slack in the cable until 50%, from there it will do its normal thing and increase the rest of the way to 100%.
 
So basically yes? Lol
I'd like to up my shift points up a little under just normal ole light throttle dd situations.
 
Id like to run the TV stop in a little more on my 12v. It has always wanted to hold 3rd on rolling stops say 10mph or more, you have to stick your foot in it a little to get the downgear, or stop completely. Its a Goerend VB, not sure what kind of pressures its making but according to them it should be in the 170psi range. I never knew why it didnt want to drop down out of 3rd until I built the trans in my 01 and got to learning more about them.

Id also like to get it shifting at a little higher RPM under part throttle, but not sure if I can accomplish that with running the TV stop in some or not.
 
Cummins Driver said:
Id like to run the TV stop in a little more on my 12v. It has always wanted to hold 3rd on rolling stops say 10mph or more, you have to stick your foot in it a little to get the downgear, or stop completely. Its a Goerend VB, not sure what kind of pressures its making but according to them it should be in the 170psi range. I never knew why it didnt want to drop down out of 3rd until I built the trans in my 01 and got to learning more about them.

Id also like to get it shifting at a little higher RPM under part throttle, but not sure if I can accomplish that with running the TV stop in some or not.
Click to expand...



Have you played with the cable adjustment? Running it a little tighter might do what you want


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
mathews8pt said:
Have you played with the cable adjustment? Running it a little tighter might do what you want


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

No I havent, and that is something ive been meaning to look into. It always worked fine so I never messed with it, but now that im learning a little more about them, id like to try to adjust on it some. I have never since I owned it adjusted the TV cable. It may be way out of adjustment for all i know... That would definitely be a better starting point than the TV stop
 
Cummins Driver said:
No I havent, and that is something ive been meaning to look into. It always worked fine so I never messed with it, but now that im learning a little more about them, id like to try to adjust on it some. I have never since I owned it adjusted the TV cable. It may be way out of adjustment for all i know... That would definitely be a better starting point than the TV stop
Click to expand...

On most trucks it takes no tools, you just press the button and slide it tighter or looser. On some trucks (like mine) it's more stubborn. In order to compress my button, I tape a nut onto channel locks and squeeze it to push the button all the way in. Just a heads up.

I've always wanted to drill a hole in my trans case and put a plug, so I could very easily and quickly adjust the TV screw. At least I've got a drain bung on the pan now... That helps a lot.
 
I have a hole drilled for 1/8 pipe plug that allows me to adjust line pressure without removing the pan. Haven't used it too much but it's there if I want to.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
mathews8pt said:
I have a hole drilled for 1/8 pipe plug that allows me to adjust line pressure without removing the pan. Haven't used it too much but it's there if I want to.
Click to expand...

Alright, I feel like you know 47/48re's better than 99.9% of people, so next time I've got the pan off, I'm drilling that SOB. Even though I've got it set pretty perfect at this point.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top