6.7 engine swap in my 2001 Ram

H

HOOSIER59

New member
Motor went out on me and I was thinking about rebuilding and P-Pumping. But due to the fact I have scene good deals on 6.7 engines I have thought about swapping one in my 2001 6 speed ram.

Is there a post of some one who did this swap.


Will it be a pain in the ass Pros & Cons?

It will be an occasional driver an tow my drag bike trailer set up.. which around 10000lbs max.

Thank you for your responses in advanced.
 
HOOSIER59 said:
Motor went out on me and I was thinking about rebuilding and P-Pumping. But due to the fact I have scene good deals on 6.7 engines I have thought about swapping one in my 2001 6 speed ram.

Is there a post of some one who did this swap.

No

Will it be a pain in the ass Pros & Cons?

Yes it will be a pain in the ass, but not as bad as if you had a Automatic. Some of the biggest issues is getting the gauges to work. The 6.7 will need a 06 5.9 ecm and harness to have cut into a standalone harness. The ecm will have to be flashed with EFILive to delete the things like security and the unnecessary sensors.

It will be an occasional driver an tow my drag bike trailer set up.. which around 10000lbs max.

Thank you for your responses in advanced.
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Some answers in red
 
RickFox said:
Some answers in red
Click to expand...

He want's to ppump it, so I don't think he'd really have any issues. Use VP injectors with ppump pop pressures, and I think if it's a 6.7L head, he'd have to get the injector tapered holes machined down a bit to get the nozzle protrusion he needs. (not completely sure about the last part though)

You'd also want some 625 head studs, and a larger turbo than your 5.9, since it's going to spool easier and fall on it's face up high sooner. A 66 is going to feel like a 63.
 
CorneliusRox said:
He want's to ppump it, so I don't think he'd really have any issues. Use VP injectors with ppump pop pressures, and I think if it's a 6.7L head, he'd have to get the injector tapered holes machined down a bit to get the nozzle protrusion he needs. (not completely sure about the last part though)

You'd also want some 625 head studs, and a larger turbo than your 5.9, since it's going to spool easier and fall on it's face up high sooner. A 66 is going to feel like a 63.
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If that is the case then he will have to have a custom timing case made, or buy one from Keating. The 12v ppump timing case will not fit on the 6.7 block.
 
RickFox said:
If that is the case then he will have to have a custom timing case made, or buy one from Keating. The 12v ppump timing case will not fit on the 6.7 block.
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Ahh, I forgot about that. Not to mention, that 6.7L head's side draft intake is huge and runs into the ppump, unless keating's timing case rotates it out of the way.
http://keatingmachine.com/products/entry/p-pump-or-sigma-billet-gear-housing-2003-to-current-5.9l-6.7l-common-rail/front-timing-covers-and-gear-housings
 
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yes I was thinking about P-pumping or running it with the common rail injection.

Thank you for your answers.

What would be easier daily driver / joy rider? P pump or Common rail in my 2nd gen

thanks for answer
 
RickFox said:
If that is the case then he will have to have a custom timing case made, or buy one from Keating. The 12v ppump timing case will not fit on the 6.7 block.
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Jay, Rick has done the CR swap. With your goals if you get the complete engine I'd be tempted to stay with cr.


Ryan
 
HOOSIER59 said:
yes I was thinking about P-pumping or running it with the common rail injection.

Thank you for your answers.

What would be easier daily driver / joy rider? P pump or Common rail in my 2nd gen

thanks for answer
Click to expand...
This is kind of like asking which leg of a triathlon is the easiest, lol. Neither option is going to be cheap or easy. Last time I looked I thought the Keating 6.7 ppump cover was around $1400. Getting the standalone ecm and harness setup can be in the same price range. The most street friendly option is the 6.7 cr with a CSP5 switch. The easiest option would honestly be just ppumping the 01 motor you have.

Rick
 
RickFox said:
This is kind of like asking which leg of a triathlon is the easiest, lol. Neither option is going to be cheap or easy. Last time I looked I thought the Keating 6.7 ppump cover was around $1400. Getting the standalone ecm and harness setup can be in the same price range. The most street friendly option is the 6.7 cr with a CSP5 switch. The easiest option would honestly be just ppumping the 01 motor you have.

Rick
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Lol I understand. Im not worried about money more less of a head ache.

I drag race 3 hayabusa's and testing and tunning along with some of my customers is enough is its own headache.

My mechanic Ryan who posted above is roughly 3 hours away. So once the truck leaves him I just want dependability and the least amount of bugs to work out
 
RickFox said:
Really? Interesting info for sure Dan. Then I wonder what is the purpose of the custom cover Keating makes then?
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Basically set the cover on, with pump and gear mounted, bolt on, set the gear lash, then drill and dowel one. Had to drill holes in the cover for the oil pan.

The other covers are very nice, however I just didn't see a need for it.

It has been about 5 years, so some of the details may be off. Any good machine shop can do it.
 
zstroken said:
Basically set the cover on, with pump and gear mounted, bolt on, set the gear lash, then drill and dowel one. Had to drill holes in the cover for the oil pan.

The other covers are very nice, however I just didn't see a need for it.

It has been about 5 years, so some of the details may be off. Any good machine shop can do it.
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Just one new hole in the block?
 
Lucky Jeff said:
Just one new hole in the block?
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Again it has been 5 years. If I remember correctly the hole that was drilled and dowelled was an existing hole.

This was for a puller, and if I had to do it again, I would have saved the money I spent on a 6.7 block/crank, stuck a 5.9 in the truck put the best turbo on it that I could find.
 
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zstroken said:
Basically set the cover on, with pump and gear mounted, bolt on, set the gear lash, then drill and dowel one. Had to drill holes in the cover for the oil pan.

The other covers are very nice, however I just didn't see a need for it.

It has been about 5 years, so some of the details may be off. Any good machine shop can do it.
Click to expand...

Awesome information, Thank you Dan. I am guessing you were running a runner intake?
 
Lucky Jeff said:
Just one new hole in the block?
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I think there are 4 or 5 holes that don't line up, and both of the dowel holes. I haven't investigated on the 6.7 block, but I know one of the bosses for a coolant plug on the side of a 5.9 CR block needs to be ground down as well for pump clearance. A fair bit of work to bolt it on, but would save someone a thousand bucks or more vs. going custom case and lines.
 
Tate said:
I think there are 4 or 5 holes that don't line up, and both of the dowel holes. I haven't investigated on the 6.7 block, but I know one of the bosses for a coolant plug on the side of a 5.9 CR block needs to be ground down as well for pump clearance. A fair bit of work to bolt it on, but would save someone a thousand bucks or more vs. going custom case and lines.
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I think one of them lined up. It was the farthest one away IIRC. Again it was 5 years ago and I have forgotten what exactly was involved. However I agree, I didn't think it was worth the extra dollars to have a billet case. I did put a billet cover on it.
 
I've seen it done in a puller, I don't know who it was so not much help. I'm thinking about doing it to my puller but gauges will have to be separate
 
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