650 HP LLY - What's it take?

B.A.Ram

B.A.Ram

A Big Deal
Joined
Jul 3, 2007
Messages
2,598
Ok - well I said I wasn't going to do it but now that I'm buying a suncoast g-max kit might as well.

Truck currently has a PPE excelerator, 4" straight pipe, and a lbz mouthpiece with a SBE intake. Nothing fancy by any means. Thought about lifting it but i'm going to stick with the 305/55/20 look it has now. With that being said - WTF else should I purchase. If I'm going to have the trans out might as well redo the up/downpipe. What will the stock turbo hold? I know EFI live is probably my best bet, just don't know shat about it. What about fuel delivery? Do these trucks need upgraded CP3's? Any guys near Dallas know their shat other than Jim Jones in Emory?

Last truck I had was a cummins so I'm duramax illiterate.....
 
is your PPE the standard, economy, hot+2....Build the tranny, lift pump and turn the tuner to the 300hp level 6 and enjoy.....Might want to shim the fuel rail....Stop there it will break the bank!!!!!
 
Good luck hitting 650hp, several trucks that Danville tunes have hit that with a stock LLY bottom end but it wont live for very long. Stock turbo will shiz its pants above 550 probably. If you want close to 600 for a decent deal, stick with the stock cp3 (if its healthy), do some 40-60% over nozzles, slap on an EGR delete kit, get a new turbo (Garret 4094vnt will be easiest/cheapest route as it is a drop in). The fuel pressure release valve is on the back of the drivers side fuel rail. The stock spring isnt strong enough to hold decent rail pressure, so it is removed and a shim is installed behind the spring (its fairly easy to do). Get ahold of someone who is familiar with EFI live to tune it, if you are a beginner with EFI and you want to push the limits you will more than likely fail (not being mean). A lift pump of your choice will work (Airdog, Fass, Kennedy).

You can get a good EFI setup through any of the big name tuners, right now Tony @ RidgeRunner diesel is having a sale on ECM exchanges for a killer deal ($299+switch+shipping). He isnt charging extra for modified injectors / turbo.
 
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My quick recipe... (figuring fprv is done, egr deleted, drivers side manifold, etc)

EFI (you can choose your tuner), lift pump, trans, S472, dual fuelers, 60% sticks... then save money for rods.

Edit... While you have the transfer case out of the truck doing the transmission you may want to install a pump rub kit from Kennedy or Merchant.
 
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Why the random 650 hp...stick around the 500 and you will still have a very quick truck and ton of fun to drive!!!!
 
Now we're getting somewhere! For reference, it's already got EGR deleted and I have the pump rub kit, planning on installing it when trans comes out. Any value in the mpi twins kit?
 
I have no experience with MPI's kits personally. I've heard good reviews on their products though.
 
Why twins? Are you towing? For $3500 that most twin kits cost I'd do a big single if possible, less clutter under the hood.
 
Notthe fleece or danville vnt turbos there 72mm are similiar to stock spooling my truck is at 538/1100 its a riot to drive smile on my face everywhere and still get 23 mpg
 
I tend to side with the theory that a big single is easier on stock rods than a set of compounds.
 
Sounds like you need to start with a real 5-550 goal before you shoot for more. Like already mentioned, smack a good sized single on it, studs, fuel mods, and a good tune. 500 is fun, easy to make, and reliable. If you want more after thats accomplished you can swap nozzles. BTW a good tuned single charger should not be a pig to light
 
Put the turbo on while you have the trans out, you will thank me! I have a EPR s366 kit. It spools great, pulls hard and was cheap!
 
dual fuelers, and a good 2.6 turbo with the supporting mods will get you 550-650 depending on the tune. Be a good idea to save for a motor build before you turn the key the first time though.
 
X2. That 600 mark is a tough line to cross without doing a full build on the bottom end. 550 is a good stopping point unless you feel inclined to drop some coin on rods and a bottom end refresh.
 
^^^ Agree with all of the above except the bigger single theory. I had the MPI std. twins 75mm over stocker. It made my truck a do it all ride, tow, race, quick spooling, manageable egts... Whats not like? Except the cost of them... The tune makes all the difference on wether the compounds are going to bend rods. They Spool so quick that the torque really comes in fast and low in the rpm range, not good for stock rods... Most of the good well known tuners out there know this and limit the fuel down low and bring it in later in the rpms. My truck is running a 600+ tune for about a year... With that said I have R&R rods sitting in the garage. Anything over 550 is borrowed time IMO.
 
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjqaBdH3YJo&list=UUbADxIrCp0lD2HTtJwJzotw&index=9&feature=plcp"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjqaBdH3YJo&list=UUbADxIrCp0lD2HTtJwJzotw&index=9&feature=plcp[/ame]
 
How longs has it been since you logged onto Comp D and what the hell is a "B.A.RAM" doin' drivin' a maxipad? :hehe:
 
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